CalVan Tools 38900 Two Valve Ford Triton Tool Kit - Foolproof Repair System, Spark Plug Thread Repair Kit. Tools and Equipment

Simple to use with fantastic results. I was thinking of going cheap with a copycat tool at 1/3 the price. This is the real macoy and the quality is there. Use thread cutting oil for the best results and tool longevity.

This kit works fantastically! Everything you need to replace that spark plug that got launched out of your engine is included. The reamer and tap are excellent quality, as are the threaded inserts. Since buying it, I’ve used this kit on three different spark plugs. The first time took me about four hours because I was nervous about drilling and tapping the head. But in the end, I realized how easy it really is to use—it’s pretty foolproof. The most time-consuming part is making sure all the metal shavings from drilling and tapping are removed from the cylinder. Just have a borescope ready so you can peek down the hole after blasting it with compressed air to make sure all the metal debris is gone. Once you do that, it’s a piece of cake. Totally worth the money.

My 2003 Lincoln Town Car blew out a spark plug. The spark plug threads on the 4.6/5.4/6.8 are the Achilles Heel of an other wise great engine. I did a lot of research on what to do next, and everything pointed to the CalVan Tools kit. I ordered it, followed the instructions, and my car is running correctly again. The kit is well engineered and made, and is about as foolproof as you can get....plus it includes 8 inserts, enough to do the entire engine if you want/need. The included sleeve that fits into the plug well ensures that you drill and tap the new threads completely straight. Here are a couple of tips that might help when you go to do this repair. First, ensure that the piston is at the bottom on the COMPRESSION stroke. I used a long drinking straw down the cylinder and turned the engine by hand until it reached the bottom of the stroke. Attach the hose to your compressor and turn the valve. If the hose blows out, the exhaust valve is closed and you're ready to ream the remains of the old threads out. If it doesn't, then you're on the exhaust stroke and need to turn the engine one complete revolution so you don't drill a hole in the exhaust valve. Very simple. Next, use cutting oil on the tap when tapping the new threads. The instructions say to use an air ratchet, but I turned the tap by hand, slowly and carefully. When you're done tapping, use a compressed air nozzle to blow the shavings out of the cylinder. Then rotate the engine by hand to top dead center and do it again. I recommend sending a camera down to ensure the cylinder is clear. Finally, use a thin ring of JB Weld on the shoulder of the insert, and red Loctite of the OUTER threads of the insert. Torque to 13 ft lbs. Allow 24 hours for the Loctite to cure before you fire the engine. The insert is now a permanent part of the engine and the repair is complete. I took my time and worked slowly and methodically, and it took about 2 hours. If I have to do another one, it will be finished in an hour. If you're on the fence about ordering this kit, don't be. Just bite the bullet and order it. Remember, you can fix it cheap and hope for the best, or you can fix it correctly and do it once.

Worked like it should. Saved a teardown job. Well made.

Worked very well on my 1999 SD 2 valve V10. Owned it since brand new. It finally popped a plug. 2023. I had one problem using this kit. The E clip came off "my fault" the tap during my 2nd run in #5 on the passenger side closest to the firewall. The tap went all the way down the cylinder as in the picture. Just the hex end of the tap was exposed at the bottom of the spark plug well as pictured. To retreive the tap I put some JB weld on a deep thin walled 3/8 socket and glued it to the end of the tap. Add a few short extensions useing some kind of tape. I use electric tape. Wait 24 hours. It was then fairly easy to lift up the tap and then by hand I reversed the tap out. Also for #5, if you have a automatic transmission it's helpful to loosen the transmission dip stick tube support bracket located on the back of the block. The tube is in the way. There is also a ground strap attached to the same transmission tube bracket that you could clean or replace while back there. I use hand tools only when tapping. Go slow and easy. You don't want to break off the tap. Again, go easy. After tapping look carefully for any broken casting pieces where the plug enters the cylinder with your bore scope. Breakage can happen there. A bigger piece of that could cause engine damage. I chose to lightly lube the tap with 4 in 1 oil just once befor tapping. I wanted to avoid trying to remove greasy. oily drill shavings and a possible smokey first startup that is most likely not good for your new plugs and o2 sensors. Dry and slow machining resulted in smaller debri. I used compressed air at 150 psi that cleaned the cylinder of dry shavings quickly and very well. Good luck and enjoy your new permanent inserts. I sure do. I give 5 stars easily. *update* The truck has been used for plowing snow since the repair for 2000 miles. Its been runnng perfectly since the repair. Up 3 mpg. I then checked the plug and it felt nice and snug. Added a new coil and now feel extreamly confident with the repair.

On the bright side, my engine is now running again and I am equipped to fix 7 more holes if I have to at a great savings (vs a repair shop) any time I need it. This did the trick and was fairly straightforward, especially with some youtube videos using this exact kit. On the down side, the inserts had somewhat rough threads. I imagine it would've worked fine anyways, but I personally used a 3/4-16 die to clean the threads up. The insert went in very smooth that way; the inside for the spark plug was already fine. I ran the tap through twice, started it with a ratchet for a few turns and then just buzzed it in with an air ratchet, reversing it a bit a few times on the first pass and cleaning the tap & hole between runs. I'm not sure what the air fitting size is for the rubber popout contraption. I was able to jam it into my Milton V chuck with some extra effort, but it's certainly not a regular old I/M fitting, and it also has some thread size that isn't regular 1/4" to quickly change it to match YOUR stuff. I just used the time-sert high-heat threadlocker, believe it's the same as loctite 266. JB weld is recommended. I torqued to 25ft/lbs and let it cure a day. I had trouble getting all the shavings out (they'd stick around the edge of the piston) and had to repeatedly raise and lower the piston a bit and blow it out several times; so that part sure isn't like the Cal-Van video where it takes 5 seconds to get it clean. I still had a few very small flakes in the engine when I gave up trying to make it perfect; it did not explode and everything is running fine. I used an 805-ht aircat air ratchet, cheap blower wand with some vinyl tubing jammed on the end for cleanout, big air compressor, precision instruments 3/8 split beam torque wrench, gear wrench 5/8 magnetic swivel spark plug socket 6" (love it), gear wrench 3/4-16 die, and a Pancellent inspection camera (was very impressed with how good this was for the $70).

The instructional youtube isn't valid but look up Ron Williams on YouTube, he has a complete 45min. Walk thru .... The air plunger kit must be in mm air tool size , cause it don't fit regular air fitting , just pop the valve off and use a clamp onto ur normal fitting . You can in fact use an electric angle drill with the reamer drill bit , but can only start the tap bit with the electric angle drill , then just go in 10 turns , out 5 turns with ur ratchet . . This kit did seem to be a return , as there was dirty oil finger tips all over the inside but everything looked good under a magnifying glass . Others are claiming it's a knock off but I'm seeing the Calvan brand Logo on everything , I think it's legit , seems to be legit ... This job time calls for 20min-1hr. Max .... but I'm super slow and O.C.D. ,,, so it took me 4hrs ... but most if that was constantly rewatching Ron Williams video , making sure I didn't mess up . The kit shows 8 inserts , but the itemized list said 6 inserts , but we did get 8 inserts in our kit . REALLY does seem to be a super solid remedy to the blown spark plug issue . A definite " BEST BUY " with our experience with this . There's a $20 Endoscope amazon may suggest with this purchase , it's a great value to and worked great . You will need JB Weld ( only apply under the top lip of insert ) You will need red Loctite ( I think it was 271 or 272 , for outter insert threads ) You will need Anti-seize fir spark plug . All should be small tubed needed , doesn't take much .

I just wanted to help someone else who was on edge with all the negative/mixed reviews on this tool. I got all my inserts and everything, used wd40 on the cutter and thread tool. I used a small impact drill for the first tool to drill out the threads, the I used my ratchet and put the threads on by hand. It was super soft and easy. Now if you have other thread inserts what I done cause I did have the stuck was I put a little bit of loctite on an old spark plug and waited two hours, then it came right out. I used the JB weld like it said and I’m waiting 24 hours. Nothing crazy and I torqued the to 25 ftlbs. So for the next guy by this tool and follow the instructions, but don’t use an air ratchet, use something you can finesse the cutter in the whole with and have some feel to it, then cut the threads by hand. I used a 1/4” tubing to attach to my air gun and blow out the shavings, got them all out. Good luck!

Bought and installed on my 2014 Ford e250 4.6L 2 valve. Dealer on where i bought my used van did not disclose that they tried fixing the blown spark plug hole with "fix-a-thread" and failed. This can fix that! saved me over $2200 on a new head! Though i only used one, but still a win for me!

Needed this kit to Helicoil/Time-Sert a plug on my 2002 Ford Triton Engine. CalVan tools kits are considered to be amongst the best, if not, the best, hence the purchase. Product didn’t disappoint and we soon had my Harley up and running. What surprised me though was both the cost and the time it took to get here. The price was competitive. Even if I was in the US and picked it up myself, I couldn’t have got it cheaper. Also, delivery was fast, the item was with me in less than a week. Well impressed.

Easy to use and works excellent.

Nothing to dislike about this product, excellent value and extremely good quality and saved my engine. Good instructions and did exactly what was required.

Fantastic service, good communication with questions about the item. Super quick delivery which was really appreciated