Mobil 1 FS European Car Formula Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-40, 1 Quart (Pack of 6)

I’ve always spent a considerable amount of money getting an oil change on my car. Laziness does prevail with me in most situations that require physical labor. This year, I decided to do what any sensibly stubborn, average, non-mechanic would do: After calculating how much money I would save on this endeavor if I did it myself, I decided to go on YouTube and find the least-shadiest video on how to change the oil on my car myself.My car: An old 2006 BMW 325i E90 (No, I did not previously go to JiffyLube for my oil changes. That would have been very bad.)The process for changing oil wasn’t difficult at all and I managed to do it in about an hour (including clean-up time – which is probably what takes the longest really).I decided it made sense to review the items I bought for this task in a combined write-up.Please see below:1. RhinoGear 11909 RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramps (Pair, 12,000lb. GVW Capacity) - (I got mine on sale at Advanced Auto Parts for $19). These are awesome and work well with a mid-sized sedan or a small SUV. These are great for small jobs that require you to get under the vehicle. RhinoRamps are very sturdy and safe. They also have enough traction to not slip around while you’re using them.Remember to always use wheel chocks with your RhinoRamps and that RhinoRamps are meant to be used on solid, flat surfaces. Don’t be that guy who tries to use this on an incline, on a muddy plane, while your car is tilted at a 45 degree angle to one side. That guy doesn’t live very long.2. Mann-Filter HU 816 X Metal-Free Oil Filter ($10.50 on Amazon). If your car is the exact model as mine, NO, you should not use the HU 925/4 X. You need the 816 X which is an exact fit. The 925 filter may look like it will fit but it won’t. It’s too long. The 925 is for later model E90s (not exactly sure what year model since I don’t have one. I think one way to check is that if the oil drain bolt at the bottom of your car is facing sideways, then you need the 816 X. If you have a later model E90, your oil drain bolt probably faces downward. That’s the one I think uses the 925 filter. The Mann-Filter comes with the gasket and o-ring which you will also need to replace when you perform your oil change.This is the only oil filter that I would trust for my car. If you’re a BMW enthusiast and have been scouring the filters for answers about your 2006 325i/E90 oil filter. This is it. Also, if you’ve read the forums regarding the Mann-Filters made in Mexico vs. Germany, where it is made does not matter. Mann-Filter has factories in both countries and guarantees that both locations follow the same quality standards. Just think about it. It’s an oil filter. How hard can it really be to screw it up?3. Oil filter wrench (got mine at the dollar store for $1.00 a few years ago). I’d get this in-store. It’s cheaper than ordering online.4. Wheel chocks. I purchased the YM W4194 Solid Rubber Wheel Chock, 8-3/4" Length, 4" Width, 6" Height - Pack of 2 wheel chocks for $18.88 on Amazon. These are pretty solid. A lot of people complained about the smell. At first, I was hesitant to buy these because of the reviews from others about the strong odor but decided to give it a shot anyway.Upon opening the package, these did have a strong odor but not bad enough that others had described. They did not fill my garage with a bad smell. I have them sitting on one side of an enclosed, two-car garage and I don’t smell them at all. These chocks worked great – even on the smooth surface of my garage floor.5. Mobil 1 96989 0W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil - 1 Quart (Pack of 6) AND6. Mobil 1 98KG00 0W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil - 1 Quart – For a 2006 325i E90, you need about 6.9x quarts of oil. I put 7 quarts. BMW only takes certain kinds of oil so you can’t just put any oil. I chose the Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula as stated. I purchased both products on Amazon and spent around $27.99 for the 6-quart pack and an additional $7.98 for the extra quart. If you intend to use another kind of oil, do research before purchasing. Using the wrong type of oil will destroy your car.7. FloTool 42003MI Drain Container, 16 quart – This was a great buy. Despite the low profile of my car, I had no trouble sliding this drain pan under the car (while on the Rhino ramps – which do not give you much clearance.This oil container has a very small footprint and can be stored standing up to the side of my garage wall. It’s also easy to transport if need be. The container looks very durable and won’t crack if you accidentally drop it. The cap also seals very well. I tried turning the container on it’s side once it was filled with oil. It met expectations and did not leak one bit.8. Hopkins FloTool 05034 Super Funnel (Amazon - $5.76). You can probably manage with a regular funnel but having one of these longer funnels makes life so much easier – especially if you have to transfer old oil into small containers prior to disposal.This funnel has also come in handy with transferring other liquids to containers that have a small opening – just make sure that you wash and dry it carefully every time you use it. You don’t want residue of whatever you’re using it for to contaminate whatever you intend to use it for next.9. Shop Towels ($3-5, depending on how many you get and where you buy them from). I recommend getting these in-store. It will cost you a lot less than if you purchase them online.10. Ratchet and 17mm wrench socket. If you’re attempting an oil change on your own, you should already own a ratchet set which you probably use for other things.You can do the math for the cost for all the materials on your own. Minus the cost of everything you only purchase once, my total cost came out to around $48.00 (filter, oil). If you’ve been bringing your BMW to the dealership, then you can appreciate how much money you can save by changing the oil yourself.I also recommend wearing gloves. Don’t bother with a creeper if you have the same car as I do. The car is too low that you won’t have enough clearance to use a creeper if you just have it sitting on RhinoRamps.I’m not a mechanic or a car expert, so I won’t get into detail on each step of the oil change process.DISCLAIMER: How you change your oil is up to you. I’m not holding myself liable for any accidents or errors that you commit with whatever process you decide to follow.Here’s a concise breakdown of what you need to do (on a flat, non-slippery surface):1. Slowly set your car up on the RhinoRamps.2. Engage emergency brake.3. Place wheel chocks firmly and securely behind rear tires.4. Give your engine ample time to cool down so you don’t burn yourself.5. Pop the hood.6. Open the engine oil cover on your engine (the one that says Castrol on it).7. Use oil filter wrench to loosen oil filter cap.8. Remove and discard the old filter.9. Replace the gasket and o-ring on the oil filter cap.10. Lubricate the oil filter gasket and o-ring with some old or new oil.11. Put the oil filter cap back on and tighten it with the oil filter wrench.12. Slide under the car and locate the oil drain bolt.13. Use the ratchet to loosen the drain bolt.14. Once you see oil dripping, slide the drain pan under it, remove the bolt and let the rest of the oil drain.15. After the oil is drained (slow dripping), use the ratchet to firmly place the drain bolt back on.16. Slide yourself and the oil drain pan out from under the vehicle.17. Use the funnel to slowly pour all 7 quarts of oil into the engine oil compartment (the one that says Castrol).18. Close the engine oil compartment.19. Slide back under one more time to check for leaks.20. Close the hood (make sure you didn’t leave anything on the engine and you put everything back before you do this).21. Start the car and let it run for a few mins. Take a peak under to make sure that you’re not leaking any oil.22. Remove wheel chocks.23. Disengage emergency brake and slowly drive back off of the RhinoRamps.24. Reset your oil change light.25. Using the funnel and the empty oil containers, transfer the old oil into the empty containers.26. Bring old oil containers to your local auto parts store and dispose of the old oil.Congratulations! You have successfully completed an oil change on your 2006 BMW 325i E90.There are a bunch of YouTube videos on how to change oil on a BMW. I’d suggest watching a few before attempting the process. There are also videos on how to reset your oil warning light after you do an oil change. It’s pretty easy.Good luck and always practice safety first.

Bought this for my Mercedes Slk250. Very happy with the quality (I've used it before), and the price was outstanding!

It’s a good quality oil, I have been using this oil on all my Mercedes Benz vehicles for more than a decade.

Mobil 1 was the gold standard to hit when I was a research Chemist 25+ something years ago. On real world tests, the cylinder heads were exceptionally clean after 10k miles. The additive package and oil type just did a great job. Mobil 1, I believe has been out since 1973 in Europe and '74 in the US. Long time for a product, but am sure the additive package has evolved over the years. Brand has stayed the same, with variants for things like high mileage vehicles etc.0W40 Mobil 1 is the recommended oil for my Saab. It's what went in at the factory and it's what's gone in *mostly* at every oil change right up to the current 90k miles. Have once or twice put in semi-synthetic but that was because my specialist garage only has that type - so change that out rapidly after 3k miles.For me it's about cheap insurance. I need a problem with my car like I need a hole in the head. Reliability and getting the most out of my car is what counts. I love my Saab and want to drive well into the 100k mile range. I normally also team up the Mobil 1 oil with an "extended distance" oil filter such as Mobil's own Mobil 1 M1C-151 Extended Performance Oil Filter (Pack of 2) or Bosch's "Distance Plus" oil filter that I used to use for our old VW Golf. Hardest thing I find is asking a garage to change your oil when you turn up supplying the oil and the filter. They're not used to that and you don't get a real discount.So it's cheap money for peace of mind. Back in the day they used to say you could drive 15k miles between oil changes - that I wouldn't do. Would rather be on the early side of that, so get my oil changed every 7-8k miles.Mobil 1 isn't the only synthetic oil I would consider, it's just that the weight I use - 0W40 is not common in the US. Am aware that there are MANY other synthetic oil vendors out there. I have no idea how good their additive packages are / how good they are as oils but I'm all ears. However, I don't see other vendors being discounted on Amazon - I got 6x 1Qt 0W40 pack for 27 bucks shipped and also see the 5QT jug being sold on sale often at WalMart for half that, but never in the 0W40 weight.hthDingo

I have been using Mobil 1 0W-40 on my '08 Audi A4 2.0T for more than 10 years now and my car loves every bit of it. The engine idles much quieter with virtually no vibration, and runs as smooth as butter when driven. The original specs on my vehicle calls for C#strol 5W-40 grade, but it seems to like this better with all the above reasons. It is Audi/VW 505 00 and 502 00 approved. The oil also doesn't burn out as quickly compared to others and the viscosity level holds up very well. Mobil 1 claims up to 10K oil-change interval but I like to keep it way under and sooner. I currently have over 97K miles on the car and the engine still sounds and performs like new. Oil/Filter-change intervals are religiously performed every 7,000 miles.