Baby Breakout Adapter for 2.5mm Barrel Jack 5V Power Supply

The screws were incredibly tight, but I managed to loosen them by holding the screw with a screwdriver and rotating the standoff itself with a wrench.It works just fine, but the LEDs are extremely dim. This caused me to believe that the board was dead as a result of some issues with problems external to the board:1. The board is preconfigured to both use Quiet Boot (skip past the POST screen) and make two separate lengthy attempts at a network boot before finally booting into Lubuntu.2. Hitting 'Esc' repeatedly at startup will bring up the BIOS, but my wireless keyboard and mouse need to be extremely close to the system in order to be used in pre-boot, GRUB, and Linux distros for some reason. They work just fine in Windows, so I can probably just edit a config file in Linux to get them working properly in Linux and GRUB. No idea how to fix this issue in the pre-boot environment, though.3. Compounding the issue in point 2, this board would not work with my monitor without the use of my capture device, just like the J-Tech HDMI Audio Extractor I reviewed. Unlike back then, I have an extra DVI-D display, which allowed me to determine that the Acer S220HQL just doesn't get/accept any video from certain devices when combined with my DVI-D [M] to HDMI adapter [F] (Belkin PureAV AV54007X) for reasons I'll have to look into.While none of these are directly related to this board, I wanted to share my experiences trying to get the Atomic Pi up and running and note how these obstacles may give the impression of a potentially defective Atomic Pi or baby breakout board.

So it's' not the board pictured, but it'll work, and maybe it's better in some regards.For example the GPIO pins make more sense as a 2.54mm pin strip (not included, i soldered my own on)There's a jumper to connect the audio amplifier's power pin to the 5v power supply, but this appears to be the only place you can connect 12v if you wanted to. If they'd used two stacked 3mm LEDs instead of 5mm LEDs side by side, there would have been room for some other, bigger, maybe locking power connector.The solder joints on D1, F1, and the +5 pin of the "AMP PWR" header were not great, so i fluxed them up and re-flowed them. For the targeted market of hobby users, this isn't a problem. If you were planning on buying hundreds or thousands of these, having to re-work every board could be a dealbreaker.Edit: I have never seen either of the LEDs illuminate?

When I connected to my atomic pi nothing. Checked the power to the pins going into the atomic pi, nothing. After some troubleshooting I found that I had good continuity from the power pin of the atmic pi to one side of 4A FB, and the other side connected to the center pin of the 2.5mm barrel jack, thus 4A FB was blown. I soldered a jumper around 4A FB and the board works fine. Odd thing is that the Atomic Pi manual states that you can use a 5A power supply -- the power supply I was using was 4a. No peripherals were plugged in other than a keyboard and mouse.

This worked as expected and fit without any issues. It was a lot easier and cheaper to get this for the Atomic Pi instead of wiring my own power connector.The only issue with mine was that the LED was dim and not very bright. I didn't think it had actually turned on at first because of how dim it was. Which is why I gave it 4/5 stars. Other than that the quality was good.

New layout of PCB that's a lot smaller than the one in the picture. Doesn't fit in any of the existing 3D Printable enclosures for the AtomicPi, but that's a problem solved with a new design and not really a problem with this board. Works fine other than not being the variant I expected, and thus wasted 8 hours on my printer on. But hey, It works fine and is smaller. I'd rather have a smaller board that I have to do a new design for anyway.

Issues:The item arrived with the plastic edges damaged (picture), but the electronics still worked well. The Amazon packaging seemed very ill suited for shipping electronics.The screws were torqued down so hard that to remove one of them required pliers.The LED lights do not work when plugged in and powered on, but I’m not sure if that is a configuration option.It powers the Atomic Pi well.

I wouldn't know if it works or not because I can't mount it. The board comes with two stand-offs so you can (in theory) secure it to the Atomic Pi. That's a nice touch. However, the screws attached to the end of the stand-offs are so tight I cannot break them free with my miniature screwdriver set. I can't use anything bigger for fear of stripping the screw head (which I might be starting to do already). I might try gripping the sides of the screw head with vise grips but I'm afraid I'll end up damaging the board trying to put so much torque on it.And because the screws are on the end of the stand-offs they won't let me seat the pins far enough in I don't trust the connection. Did they drop a little gorilla glue into the stand-offs before the put the screws in as a joke? I don't THINK I ordered this on April 1st.

Was disappointed because the pins were bent on the board. I had to use a tool to bend them back in place so that they can connect properly. its going to ba about a month before i can even try it to make sure it work.