Ultimate Mirror Chrome Aerosol Paint 3.5oz

Works surprisingly well. Although it might take some hard work to get best results. I used it on wood, so I had to do multiple layers of a clear coat base to get it as close to glass smooth as I could (3 coats, sand down with 220 grit, wipe, 3 more coats, rinse and repeat. time consuming process waiting for each to dry). If you are on plastic you can probably skip that step entirely. Then you need a gloss black back coating (or, technically you could use other colors depending on what hue you want the reflective coating to be), and you want multiple coats of that. (I went with Testor's gloss black, it ended up with a mirror-like reflection itself, but just in jet black). Once that has cured, very light sprays of the chrome, so you can barely see each coat at all (the first few you probably won't see) with 30 sec-1min between coats (with such thin coats, dries quickly for reapplication). The difficulty is in knowing when to stop, my mirror coating is still a bit dark, but if you apply too much of the mirror chrome it dulls the gloss. Wait a day before lightly buffing it out with a soft cotton cloth (there is a slight film that will be on top, removing that improves the shine, but make sure it's fully dry or you will rub out the chrome entirely). You can definitely see a reflection, though on mine it's not true mirror due to the surface not being completely flat (hard to do on wood, but again plastic such as for models should be fine). But the outcome is it looks like it's coated in metal, which is the goal, with some reflective properties. One note when working with this, be careful at all steps to avoid putting on too much of any spray so you don't get bubbling. Those tiny bubbles show up distinctly in the final product. But this is probably going to be the best you can do for mirror chromes (they are also a lot of youtube videos comparing the various brands, that's how I ended up picking the spax stix based on their results). The cans are only 3.5oz, so don't expect them to do any huge projects. As long as you know what you are getting into, this stuff works well

Still not exactly chrome but it looks way better than what I had. I goes on nice and easy and is easy to work with. I never expect miracles from a can so I still give it 5 stars as I believe it's the best option out there in a spray can.

I love this paint, wish I knew about it sooner. It is the closest look to chrome for lexan bodies that I've come across yet. Very easy to use, sprays nicely out of the can. I sprayed 3 light coats followed by a heavier coat and then backed with regular black paint for lexan. Dries almost immediately which is nice so you can recoat quickly. Highly recommend Spaz Stix mirror chrome, I love it and will be using it a lot from here on out.

Had one scuffed chrome interior of a Jag headlight, bought this to try to fix it. Didn't even come close to the chrome of the good headlight, so I had to repaint the other good headlight so they would match with the duller silver "chrome" color. Then I bought the Duplicolor metalcast smoke paint and went over them with that. Actually turned out a pretty cool gunmetal gray! But don't expect the Spaz Stix chrome to match your stock high gloss chrome. I have heard it may work better if you heat up the surface you're working on a bit, but...?

Foot note.....The name is Paul, wife's account. So, I paint my own custom salmon/steelhead plugs. I have been looking for something that would give me that good mirror shine like on the store bought plugs. I had tried Krylon, goes on too thick and dulls horribly. Tried Rustolium with the same results. Finally I have found the solution. This goes on smooth and in light coats as not to weight down the plug too much. But......make sure to use a finisher on plastic first as the gloss black can scar the plastic leaving the effect of finger prints. Found this out the hard way. Also, if the Mirror Chrome looks dull try this......I placed my plugs under a heat lamp on my range and let them warm up for 30 minutes. I then put on gloves, (very important as not to leave oils on the paint), and took an old t-shirt and began rubbing vigorously. Just like polishing any chrome surface.....MIRROR SHINE!!!!!! I tried this method using a hair dryer also....same results. I use a 2 part, 30 minute drying epoxy made for repairing glass. This did not effect the chrome appearance. If anything, it improved it by adding some depth and additional shine. For those of you making your own plugs, the epoxy I use comes out of the automotive department and is called PERMA-OXY 30 minute. Nice thing about this epoxy, it goes on smooth, self leveling,(no spin dry necessary), and will fill any small openings that may be there if you are using 2 part blanks and putting them together yourself. It is also INDESTRUCTIBLE!!!!!! All and all.......IMPRESSED AND HAPPY! Best money I have spent on chrome products thus far and will not use any other product for chroming my plugs! P.S.....but the kit available. I believe it is $14-$16 dollars, and Prime eligible.

After considerable research I purchased this product to paint a model of the “Scorpion Claw” karambit I made as a project with my grandson. The grips were carved from Brazilian rosewood, and the blade was carved from a 1/4” thick sheet of Lexan polycarbonate. I realize that paints for polycarbonate are primarily intended for coating the inside of RC car bodies, but I had good success painting the polycarbonate receiver of a T2 shotgun model we had made previously. We painted the receiver black using another manufacturer’s polycarbonate paint, and this paint appeared to physically bond with the plastic rather than go on as a coating, so I felt like a paint made for polycarbonate should work for the knife. I read the reviews and noted that other users had achieved varying results. I presumed that those who had poor success had not prepared the painted surface properly or had painted outside the recommended temp or humidity parameters. So I prepared the blade with great care, final sanding with #600 grit, washing with water and dish soap, then again with isopropyl alcohol, wiping dry with a clean cloth. I test sprayed samples of the same material and got an excellent bond. (I was able to polish these the following day and got a very nice metallic luster.) I then suspended my blade by a wire through one of the mounting holes for the grip and built up thin coats, following the manufacturer’s instructions to the absolute best of my ability. I applied 5 or 6 thin coats, and the finished paint job looked very nice. However, after the paint dried it flaked off as if it had achieved absolutely ZERO adhesion. It was like what you might expect painting Teflon would be like only worse. So, I was out $13 for the paint plus tax and shipping, and I had wasted a couple of hours of my time. I had to remove all traces of the old paint, re-clean the blade and start over with different paint. Not a happy experience. And, to add insult to injury, the paint bonded tenaciously to the unprepared black iron wire I hung the blade from! I was able to polish out the wire so that it looked almost chromed. What did I do wrong? Why would this paint bond to two different samples and an iron wire but not to the carefully prepared object I wanted to coat? This is the kind of stuff that will drive you nuts if you let it, and I must say, I do not think the failure was my fault. The surface I sprayed was immaculately smooth and clean. Paint should not be that sensitive to application conditions. I repainted with a competitor’s product (starts with a T…) and got a superior bond and a tough, durable finish. The finish has a coarser, more powdered aluminum look and is less attractive than the SpazStix product, but the paint is on there and it doesn’t feel like it will ever come off. All I can do is convey my experience as clearly and honestly as I can. But, if I was the manufacturer of this stuff, I would be greatly concerned. Would I ever buy this brand again? What do you think?

Works great but you have to spray very light/thin coats. Spraying too heavy will make it appear silver instead of chrome. Took me a couple of tries to get the perfect look

You must follow instructions and watch YouTube videos AND use a good gloss black first. I had a plastic dash bezel that is not reproduced. I cleaned it thoroughly, compressor blown clean. Used alcohol thereafter. In most dust free area possible used the Spatz companion Black undercoat which is glossy, which is critical. Dust coat first then two more. After three days of curing dust coated chrome spray can, dried then another light coat, then another heavier coat but not too heavy. I stopped application when it looked good. I think too many coats will make it duller as black undercoat is overly masked. . Looks more like brushed aluminum but I’m good with that. Product cans are small so it’s pricey but the YouTube comparisons rank it above several brands. The photo has light level similar to dash in the car.