Brownells Oxpho-Blue Liquid Gun Blue, Cold Bluing Solution, Gunsmithing Tools Maintenance Cleaning Supplies, Professional Grade, 4 Fl oz. (118.2 mL)

Works great, clean well with alcohol, preheat and use clean cotton ball’s, and rubber gloves, was very impressed with the quality and the finish

This stuff is amazing. I blued several of my tools completely and did some touch ups. It works in 10-15 seconds (under one minute). The trick is to to clean the surface very well to remove any grease with acetone or alcohol. Also, I got a better result by using a wire brush vs recommended #0 steel wool after bluing. The black coating is basically also a type of rust and it is porous and to prevent regular rusting you need to apply any oil or wax as a rust inhibitors after bluing which will be absorbed and retained by the black coating creating a barrier for regular rust.

Very easy to work with and really restored my rifle to new.. Simply remove the rust with a 400 grit emory paper, wipe clean with a cleaner (like alcohol) before applied the bluing Solution, let it then dry for a minute and burnish with a #0 steel wool. Repeat the process if necessary, I applied it 3 times minimum. At end apply CLP mil spec to seal the newly applied area.

I love this stuff. Instantly turns steel black, very black. Steel can have light surface rust and not be perfectly clean and it still works pretty well. The metal can be buffed with steel wool or a brass brush and the black does not come off. A very little goes a long way and this stuff is pretty expensive. I took off a star because the bottle cap has a cardboard circle glued into the top. On the very first day I used this stuff, the cardboard bottle cap gasket was soaking wet and fell out of the cap. You can see where a dot of glue was supposed to be holding this into the plastic cap. This seriously makes no sense. This substance is an acid that eats through various materials including paper and cardboard, so why would they think a cardboard circle in the cap that is going to be in constant contact with acid would stay in place? Now every time I take off the cap, the cardboard falls out and I have to touch this acid soaked gasket and put in back into the cap. I should just throw it away but the manufacturer of the bottle glued it in there for a reason - is the acid now going to leak out or dry up without this?

Did its job well for me. When done right will give a proper cold blue finish. Remember to always pour the needed amount out into a separate container when using it in order to not contaminate the main bottle. The lowest price for quality cold blue when I bought it. No complaints.

This a great product and I find this works better than the other cold blues I have tried. Of course there is always some steel that other products work a bit better on, but this does give a good color match on old rust blued items.

Followed the instructions. Didn't have any problems. Always coat it with oil after you've got the finish you desire. For me, it only took one dip. Oh - and never put used any fluid back in the bottle!

Like everyone says, clean your metal, and then clean it some more. When you've finished that, clean it one more time. I sanded my test pieces with 80, 120, 220, and 400 grit, then gave them a couple wipes with acetone until my paper towel came away clean. The finished pieces had no uneven coating. Also, use small amounts on a clean applicator. I had acceptable results with a small amount in a plastic cup applied with a paintbrush, but doing that will contaminate the solution. Dropping pieces into the solution made for a super dark finish, but also left residue in the solution.... so don't do that (at least not on the first coat). It's easy to fix mistakes and blemishes with some fine sandpaper and acetone. Sand off the blue, clean the work of fingerprints and sanding dust, then reapply. To my eyes I couldn't see my blue repair area. Seems to work very well with welds. I did some simple tests with mild steel and ER70S-6 wire shielded with C25 gas. It is possible to weld through the blue layer, though for serious applications you should clean the blue off the metal. Both the base metal and the weld bead blued nicely after cooling and cleaning.