HitLights LED Strip Lights Warm White 2700K, 12V 16.4ft, UL Listed

These are great! I replaced some older under cabinet led strips that had always suffered from a green hue. These do not have that same problem the high CRI of these lights is very noticeable. The install was easy as I had most of the wiring done, I just needed to solder them in. I installed them in some aluminum channel with a diffuser and they came out very professional looking. The adhesive is extremely strong and difficult to unstick if you need to reset the strip. The light strip construction itself seems more robust than other LED's strips I have used. Great lights and worth the money!

Works well. Pretty easy to install, if you know how to solder. (The "solderless gapless" connectors don't work worth squat.) It's much easier to just cut wherever you need, and solder directly. Far more reliable, too. I spent half an hour trying to get the connectors to work, before throwing them out in frustration. According to the manufacturer, soldering doesn't void the warranty. Using 18, 20 or 22 gauge copper wire works fine. For more than one 16 ft spool, don't connect them together in a single string (series). Instead, connect different spools separately, and join them together at the power supply. (parallel) Or even better, use a separate power supply for each spool. A 60 watt power supply is recommended for each 16 foot spool. So either buy a power supply for each spool, or a higher wattage one to join together. (i.e. 120 watts for 2 spools, etc.) Using a higher wattage power supply than bare minimum will ensure it lasts a long time, and it doesn't use more electricity. I selected ASIN B07TF5M4YN, "Dimmable Led Driver 12v DC 60w quiet operation universal regulated led driver dimmable low voltage dimmable transformer Input/Output Isolation Protection Transformer for Constant LED Products"

I use these for undercabinet lighting projects because they are so bright. These lights are easy to install, durable and are able to stick very well to most surfaces. I’ve had no issues with flickering or anything like that.

After a year of usage, the lights have began going out. They are now pulsating and won’t stay fully lit. They were easy to install and the warmth was right but I am now having to find another option for my kitchen under cabinet lights

Mounted these on the inside aluminum C channel such that they fire at the opposing inner wall as a diffuser. Works great! Also acts as a heat sink to dissipate the heat these DO generate. (I really recommend this for the longevity of your investment) It's high brightness, yet evening-friendly color temperature, makes it ideal for seeing things plainly and getting things done at night without either straining to see, or hyper stimulating my pineal gland or nervous system at night with light in the blue spectrum. The color temperature is relaxing. A great combo of traits for my purposes.

I think many people don't understand LED Color Rendering Index, as many LED lighting products don't advertise this number. These are 90+, which means the light better mimics natural light or incandescent light. Brightness (lumens) and kelvin gets you the light level and shade but that is only part of what's important for general interior lighting. I remember replacing our vanity lights with LED bulbs when they first came on the market and the reflection in the mirror was like a freak show. The color made you look like a zombie. If you're going to buy LED tape for general lighting, only look for 90+ CRI rating. These tape lights are very good! Look for a 2700 - 3000 kelvin rating and a CRI of 90+ when you figure out what lumens you want for general interior lighting. 4000+ kelvin works well for garage/shop lighting depending on your preference.

Minus one star because product description omits this very important detail: YOU CAN'T USE THE STRIP TO POWER THE LEDS! I complained that HitLights LED strips don't draw the rated power, and they responded that I only wired to one end. The copper is too thin to provide power to the far end of the strip. Wow. I never thought of that. But it's true. I used a good 10A digital meter to check when powering one end (3.1A) vs. both ends (4.5A). Sure enough, there's a huge difference. Cutting into 1' lengths and using thicker wire to separately power each length would make them even brighter and consume even more power. My power readings were with hard-wired connections from a robust power supply (150W in my case). Using a supply with less than a 200% rating probably won't work. Adding connectors will KILL you. I tried powering the two ends with a factory-made Y splitter, and lost 0.7A. That one extra connection, and the thin wire inside the splitter, measures around 0.2 ohms of resistance. At 5 amps that's a volt off your 12V supply... and these strips are NOT regulated against changes in voltage. Solder everything, use thick wire, and jumper that thick wire into the midpoint of your LED strips. Yes, this string has connectors at both ends, but you're a fool if you connect another strip in series. You shouldn't even power this single string from only one end. If you want full brightness (which makes them run hotter) you need to bring power to the strip every meter... not just at one end. Kudos to HitLights for knowing all this, boos to the entire industry for producing strips too thin to work without auxiliary wiring.

I got these LED strips to compliment some of my current accent lighting in my background for my YT videos. As they stand I would need a dimmer, otherwise, they would be too bright for the frame. In addition the tungsten color doesn't quite match my current 2700k lights (that is why there is post work). With that said, the actual strips appear robust and the LED diodes quality looks better than the price would suggest. My only suggestion is that HitLights offer some kits with these strips alongside an AC adapter and dimmer for an almost "plug and play" setup.