3084 Dry Moly Lube, (Net Weight: 11 oz.) Dark Gray, Original Version | Fast-Drying Dry Film Lubricant, Non-Conductive Formula, High-Pressure Protection, Industrial Use

It's dry. It's moly. It's lube. What more is there to know? I actually use this stuff for lots of things. Even works as a decent finish for guns if you let it dry, add extra coats and wipe it down with a soft dry rag. Did it to an old shotgun that kept getting surface rust on it from sitting in the safe and now it doesn't rust.

Overall experience: Worked well and gave a finish I was happy with. Used this to engrave flasks as a gift for cast members of a show. Things we learned: 1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser. 2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks). 3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly. 4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks. Other tips. Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass. Picture notes: Dark grey flask is an early prototype. This shows 2 coats of moly but we burned it too long and warped the flask (see the bending around the word "Syrup"). Silver flask is after clean up but there was still some moly on the flask to the left of elf. A 2nd pass with isopropyl alcohol polished it up. We hollowed out the text to reduce the amount of focused burn on that part of the flask to reduce the amount of warping (it significantly improved the end result). We reduced the power and increased the speed significantly for the final product.

Love this stuff so much better than greasing up my tractor attachments. It doesn't hold on to dirt, dust, mud, etc, but definitely lubricates well, helps prevent rusting and makes moving the forks on my Tractor and other attachments making it much easier without sticking

First, I'm not a typically high rater. To get five stars, you have to do something to knock my socks off. 4 stars means GOOD. Second, my use is a little 'off label' for their typical applications. I have a blue-diode laser that doesn't do metals very well. There were some discussions on the forum I follow about using CerMark to improve metal engraving and some about using CRC dry moly. I chose to try the CRC dry moly since I don't plan on doing a lot of metal engraving and the CerMark is pretty expensive for 'testing.' The CRC dry moly was easy to apply. I did make sure I cleaned the metal before coating (alcohol and acetone) to get rid of anything that would mess up the coating. I did a couple thin coats. There were still some 'bubble' areas that weren't as smooth as I would have liked. For my test, it did seem to help a lot more than a marking pen or some other things I tried. I probably will need to dial my settings in a little more to get a better job. I did subsequently come across a discussion of molybdenum disulfide verses molybdenum oxide and problems with the disulfide version. You may want to review that before diving into the dry moly use. It doesn't suggest CRC dry moly is a bad product, just a forewarning in general Overall, I would say the CDC dry moly is a GOOD product.

Used to refurbish USGI aluminum magazines. Looks good as new!

This dry moly is a superb product! it was recommended to me by a highly experienced Caterpillar diesel mechanic to lubricate machinery in a very dusty environment. In my case it was the trunnions and bearings in my Delta Unisaw that are bathed in dust every time it is used. It has worked extremely well; better than graphite or any other product that you can get at the local NAPA/hardware store/ O'Reilly, etc. Does not attract dust. Basically it consists of a dry lubricant, Molybdenum diSulfide in an acetone or other volatile matrix. So it goes on fast, the acetone evaporates leaving the lube behind. Because the matrix is volatile it can't be used in a flammable environment like around a pilot light for example - drama will ensue. It can be messy. It sticks sort of like paint film to every surface that it comes in contact with like your hands or adjacent painted surfaces. So use it with care. But it works, it lasts and it is a darn good product.

I used this dry moly lube as a replacement for CerMark for laser etching on stainless steel bottle openers, and it worked great! For those trying to do something similar, here's how I did it. The equipment was a Universal 40W CO2 laser. To prep the bottle openers I peeled off the stickers that they came with and cleaned off the gunk with ispropyl. I sprayed the side I wanted to mark with the dry moly and waited a half hour for it to dry, then sprayed on a second coat. To mark I used the stainless steel direct marking Universal material pre-set (100% power and ~7% speed). I was only doing text (no grayscale rasterings) but the etchings came out great. To remove the excess moly coating after the laser, I soaked the openers in a shallow bin of isopropyl for about 15 minutes and it just wiped off with a sponge (the photos below are before final cleaning, just rubbed with a scrubbing sponge under running water).

I have tested this engraving tool, and it performs well on stainless steel. If you're looking to practice or engrave items, using only stainless steel will yield the best results. Don’t settle for anything less for your engraving projects!