The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol. I. Paperback – May 20, 2010

Any of these style books are reprints. Keep that in mind. They are packed full of knowledge and wisdom that is never changing. I highly recommend them for any sewer.

There is no more comprehensive tailoring book in print today. The book tells how to measure an individual and draw full sized patterns to fit any particular individual.The patterns are traditional tailors patterns, very different from ladies dress making patterns. The patterns include a quarter inch seam. This is because the normal presser foot on a sewing machine that holds down the fabric is one half inch wide. The patterns will be drawn full size on brown wrapping paper and the paper pattern cut out. The tailor would trace the outline of the pattern with tailor's chalk on the upper layer of two layers of cloth. The two layers are for the right and left sides of the garment. The two layers of cloth will be cut outside the chalk line if more than a quarter inch seam allowance is wanted. A tailor tack presser foot will be put on the sewing machine and with a zigzag stitch and contrasting thread a seam of loose stitches will be sewn on top of the chalk line, thus marking the pattern on both layers of cloth. He would pull the two layers apart using a thread cutter to snip the threads. Then a normal presser foot will be put on the sewing machine to sew different pieces together. The pattern marking stitches would run along the edge of the normal presser foot and the seam would be a quarter inch from that. After the garment is sewn the marking stitches will be pulled out. The patterns include suits, coats, tuxedos, tail suits, riding pants, old fashioned golfing pants called plus fours. Some ladies patterns and childrens patterns are included. Volume 2 has a glossary of tailoring terms and more patterns. Volume 3 has "correct dress for the occasion", a fancy old fashioned coat worn only at royal affairs, and sewing instructions for a business suit.This is volume 1 of 3. The paperback is more durable than the hardback.

This is the book that changed my life. Literally. Before I xeroxed a copy of a copy of this 3 part series, I was fumbling miserably, but still determined to crack the nut that is pattern drafting for men's tailored garments. Of the 3 part series, this is essential. The other 2 volumes ramble on about how to set up your workroom, do your accounting, etc. Dull Reading.The Drafts are excellent. Easy to follow if you are familiar with drafting formulas for men's tailored garments. Most importantly, they work. They fit: the shoulder, neckline, armhole, balance, etc are all correct. In addition there is a section on fitting problems. Why they are happening and how to to solve them. This is the section which really opened a door for me. Too many books pass through fitting too quickly, without answering the issues that can bring one to tears. Now one can learn the reason for the excess fold of fabric at the back of the armscye is caused by taking in too much at the side seam. It is solved by taking more out at the center back, and on and on.I've been making men's tailored garments for 30 years, and cutting and fitting them for over 20. I consider this book essential to anyone interested in men's tailoring; modern or costume. I just purchased this book and set my beat up xerox aside.

Even though I may never use the information in this book, it is fascinating to read. The diagrams are explicit and the information is well written. I probably won't ever draft a pattern using this, but as a costumer and dabbler in making historic garments, it was a lot of fun.

A lot of outdated terms but it's really good for drafting patterns but you should get all 3 it's a great investment

This book is not a sewing guide…

This is a good, workable book of patterns from the early 20th century. I haven't tested them out, however they look to be very good. Perhaps the more valuable part of the book is the sections on how to adjust for a multitude of body shapes, and dealing with other fitting issues.

out of date info