Hardwire Smoke Detector with 9V Battery Backup and Front Load Battery Door | Model I4618AC

A bit pricy. But prompt delivery and easy installations. Two thumbs up!

As I changed the batteries in my detectors last Daylight Savings, I noticed a sticker on my old 1275 models that stated a 10 year life span from the date of manufacture. DOM showed 2002 and an expiration date of 2012. Ooops. Obviously you can't get this dinosaur anymore so I looked for compatible alarms that had the same plug pattern (triangular) as my hardwiring. The Kidde website was very helpful finding a replacement. I only had to change the mounting frame. Quick and easy. I love that the battery backup is on the facing surface. Great product and the perfect replacement. No more dismounting and unplugging. Stay safe people. Check your expiration dates, change your batteries, clean out the sensors with canned air and test them once a month.

Just replaced all five alarms in the house. They arrived ahead of scheduled time. The product packaging was perfect with no transit damage. Installation was simple (hardwired into my home) each tested perfectly. This type of alarm has the easiest battery replacement of any I looked at. I highly recommend this product

I only installed these a few days ago and so can't comment on the lifespan yet - this review will hopefully be of use to anyone who (like me) is replacing old Firex wired units. My house was originally fitted with Firex 120-1182 hardwired ionizing smoke detectors with battery backup, These units have reached the end of their life - and anyway, I was tired of the frequent false alarms when we were cooking. I decided to replace the bedroom units with updated ionizing detectors and the ones in the hallways and kitchen with photocell units. I contacted Kidde user support to confirm this was recommended and the different units could be mixed on the same wiring. For the photocell units I chose the Kidde PE120 Hardwire with Battery Backup Photoelectric Sensor Smoke Alarm. I can confirm the units DO have a 'push to hush' button and the button works - it is the small transparent button on the front face of the unit close to the edge, and clearly visible in the pictures. The battery door is at the back of the unit, making replacement annoying. A further small annoyance is that the base plate does not come with screw holes punched out, you have to push out the blanks with a screwdriver. This can be annoying when you are up a ladder, I recommend pushing out all six blanks (three pairs) before installation. For the ionizing units I chose the Kidde i4618 Firex Hardwire Ionization Smoke Detector, recommended by Kidde as the replacement for the Firex units I had. These are practically identical to the Firex units, but puzzlingly the base plates of the Firex units will not accept the Kidde detectors - a minor annoyance, replacing the base plate can be done in a minute. The Kidde wiring connector is different to the old Firex one. You can use the KA-F adaptors (sold separately) which attach to the back of both of the units mentioned above and seem secure to me (Kidde user support recommends replacing the wiring because they say the fit can be loose - I did not find this to be the case) or you can replace the wiring using the new Kidde connectors supplied. In the end I chose to replace the wiring because the KA-F adaptors are bulky and in my setup there wasn't enough space behind the detector. I am no electrician and I was hooking up each detector in 2 minutes, it was a really easy wiring job. Obviously switch off the power at your fuse panel first. I went into detail here because I was puzzled about what to do and only found partial answers on the web. Hopefully this will help others in my position.

I bought these to replace my old Firex alarms that were about 12 years old. I was encouraged by the review from the man who said he wasn't handy but found the rewiring to be straightforeward. So I bought of these and have taken them out a number of times but am just flummoxed. I don't see any pre-stripped wires, just the three prongs sticking out from the back. Are there any instructions? I can't find them on the website and of course the help line is open only during business hours, not during the evenings or weekends when I try to install these. Currently, because I did find the breakers that control the alarms and have that turned off, we are without any smoke alarm protection. I bet this is some small, obvious thing, but I can't figure out where to get to these wires in order to rewire the new alarms. Any help will be deeply appreciated. UPDATE: Finally, I hired an electrician to install the alarms. Once I saw how he did the first one, I realized I could have installed them all very easily. The info I was missing was that the connectors for the old Firex had to be removed first--as you do that you will see where each of the the new wires needs to go. A ten minute operation. You do need to change out the holder, the piece that attaches to the ceiling to which you screw in the alarm box. But that, too, swaps out without a problem. The best part of these alarms is that you can change the batteries from the front of the box. In other words, you don't have to remove the alarm from the ceiling to get at the battery compartment in the back. The battery compartment is behind a sliding door on the front of the alarm.

This smoke detector worked perfectly , it was to replace one that quit working.

Very good

Fantastic deal. Exact model recommended to replace my discontinued one which needed to match the other 3 that still work. I was very surprised to get free shipping from US to Canada. That only seems to happen from China, never the US

Love it