---
product_id: 187209484
title: "Road Top Wireless Carplay Retrofit Kit Decoder for Mercedes Benz C/E/CLA/GLA/GLK/CLS/ML/GL/GLK/SLK Class 2012-2015 Year with ntg4.5 ntg4.7 System, Support Wireless Android Auto, Mirrorlink, Navigation"
brand: "road top"
price: "€ 491.68"
currency: EUR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 6
category: "Road Top"
url: https://www.desertcart.sk/products/187209484-road-top-wireless-carplay-retrofit-kit-decoder-for-mercedes-benz
store_origin: SK
region: Slovakia
---

# Wireless CarPlay & Android Auto One-button toggle original/CarPlay Fits 2012-2015 Mercedes NTG4.5/4.7 Road Top Wireless Carplay Retrofit Kit Decoder for Mercedes Benz C/E/CLA/GLA/GLK/CLS/ML/GL/GLK/SLK Class 2012-2015 Year with ntg4.5 ntg4.7 System, Support Wireless Android Auto, Mirrorlink, Navigation

**Brand:** road top
**Price:** € 491.68
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🚀 Upgrade your Benz’s brain without losing its soul!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Road Top Wireless Carplay Retrofit Kit Decoder for Mercedes Benz C/E/CLA/GLA/GLK/CLS/ML/GL/GLK/SLK Class 2012-2015 Year with ntg4.5 ntg4.7 System, Support Wireless Android Auto, Mirrorlink, Navigation by road top
- **How much does it cost?** € 491.68 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.sk](https://www.desertcart.sk/products/187209484-road-top-wireless-carplay-retrofit-kit-decoder-for-mercedes-benz)

## Best For

- road top enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted road top brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Seamless Legacy Upgrade:** Transform your 2012-2015 Mercedes infotainment with wireless Apple CarPlay & Android Auto—no screen swap needed.
- • **Universal Camera Support:** Keep your factory reverse camera or add aftermarket 360° and front DVR cameras for full parking confidence.
- • **Plug & Play with Aux Audio:** Sound routed through AUX channel ensures crisp audio without compromising your original system’s integrity.
- • **Effortless Control Integration:** Use your original car knob and steering wheel buttons for voice, calls, and navigation commands—intuitive and distraction-free.
- • **Custom Installation Flexibility:** Designed for NTG4.5/4.7 systems with detailed wiring guidance—perfect for the DIY enthusiast or professional installer.

## Overview

The Road Top Wireless CarPlay Retrofit Kit Decoder modernizes Mercedes Benz models (2012-2015, NTG4.5/4.7) by adding wireless Apple CarPlay, Android Auto, and Mirrorlink functionality. It integrates seamlessly with the original infotainment system, supports factory and aftermarket cameras, and allows control via existing knobs and steering wheel buttons. Installation requires dashboard access and AUX audio activation, delivering a sleek, connected driving experience without replacing your factory screen.

## Description

desertcart.com : Road Top Wireless Carplay Retrofit Kit Decoder for Mercedes Benz C/E/CLA/GLA/GLK/CLS/ML/GL/GLK/SLK Class 2012-2015 Year with ntg4.5 ntg4.7 System, Support Wireless Android Auto, Mirrorlink, Navigation : Electronics

Review: Makes your early 201x MB new again - This will allow you to have modern Apple/Android functionality on your legacy stereo. Sharing install experiences for others (I have a 2013 E350, other 1st generation E-class models should be similar). I'm in the USA, so I have a LHD car, not sure if this works out for RHD cars. Before you forget, go ahead and set the DIP switches according to the manual. You will need to know if you have the 5.8" or 7" screen, set the switches per the instructions, depending on what screen you have. Also go ahead and attach the two black ground wires together (one from the main harness and the other from the USB harness). You won't get audio if you don't do this, and it's much easier to take care of it beforehand. You'll need to remove the LCD, center vent trim, the radio, the heater controller, the sliding cover/cup holder, and the control knob. Plenty of videos on YT for that. I highly recommend temporarily plugging everything in outside the dashboard, to make sure it all works correctly. If you do this, go ahead and put the center vent trim in position (don't lock it in, just rest it there) and plug in the switches, or else the car will throw errors about a hazard flasher malfunction since it can't find the hazard switch. Don't forget to move the fiber over from the original Quadlock connector to the Quadlock in the harness. The release clip is tiny, it's in the top of the connector. Once you release that the two fibers come out in a black connector. Don't try to take out the individual fibers. Be careful, these are plastic fiber, not as fragile as a glass cable, but still can be easily broken if roughly handled. Once you're sure it's working then take everything back apart and start actually installing it. Here are the best ways I found to route things on my car. I located the control box behind the LCD. That is the only decent place I found that had enough room and allowed the cables to reach. Now starting from the radio cavity, thread the wifi antenna connector, and the white connectors from the two harnesses, past the vent flanges, on the left side. Tuck the wires behind the vent flange on the left side. Take the LVDS cable and run it down the right side the same way. Think of it like a V, the bottom of the V goes to the control box and the two tails stay in the radio cavity. Plug the cables into the control box, working inside the monitor cavity. Now place the control box in position behind the LCD. I had the white connector end pointed down and wifi antenna connector pointing up. It was able to tuck into a recess that extended toward the passenger side. I took a big zip tie and was able to secure the control box to a metal support behind the LCD. Plug the factory cables (LVDS and black power connector) back into the LCD and reinstall it and put the bezel back on. Now the fun part. You have to extend 2 cables to the arm rest. One for your USB and the other for the audio. Route the USB and 3.5 mm cables down past the heater control area and into the space where the cup holder goes. Follow the harness right down the center of the cup holder area to avoid interference with the cup holder. The framework that holds the control knob needs to be unscrewed (4 T20 screws) and then pull up the front end (2 clamps at the front right and left corners. Once you do that you will see a small notch at the front of the armrest compartment. There is just enough clearance to route your audio cable and either your lightning cable or USB extension through this notch and close the framework back up. Wiggle the cords to make sure they're not pinched. I left the end of the lightning cable in the armrest compartment. The red protective cover that went over the Wi-fi antenna connector is the right size to slip over the end of the cable and prevent it from shorting out inside the compartment. You won't need this USB cable except if you want to run a wired connection. (see below, I ended up running a USB extension to get the actual USB connection in the armrest cubby to allow firmware flashes) The audio connects to the adapter that plugs into the MHI port in the back of the armrest compartment. You'll need a ground loop isolator, (item ID B019FC6ZQQ) or else you will get whining noises in the audio. Put the control knob and cup holder assembly back in. Don't forget to throw a towel back over this to prevent scratching the wood. Take the wi-fi antenna and route it down to the heater control area. There is a horizontal flat spot in the structure behind the heat controls that works great to secure the antenna. Reinstall the heater controls. Now all that is left is to plug the connections back into the radio and work it back into the opening. This takes a little bit of patience. The best place for the factory Quadlock is down low behind the heater controls. You may have to put the radio in part way and reach through the vent opening and down behind the radio to help get things where they need to go to allow the radio to seat flush. Don't force it, if it won't set in easy, you are pinching something. Put your vent back in and you're done except for some programming. If you don't want the factory MB voice (who does?) then go into Engineering Mode on the head unit (press and hold 'end call' + '1' + '#' buttons for 10 seconds). Navigate (using the console knob) to menu 7.7 (HU Parameter), then scroll down to find SDS/TTS in the list. Select this and choose Disable. Now hit the Back button until you're back at the root menu, then find menu 9 (Reset) and run this. It does not factory default the HU, this just reboots the unit. This is necessary to make it accept the changes. **new content 4 April 2022, after living with it for a month or so...** I was having problems with it connecting and staying connected. Turns out you have to be within about a foot of the wifi antenna for wireless CarPlay to work effectively (or maybe it's just where I mounted the wifi antenna, above the climate controls). If I leave my phone on the belt clip on my left side (in a USA LHD car) it had a hard time connecting. Once I realized this and put the phone in the cup holder or center console it works flawlessly. If I get motivated enough to pull the radio out again I may try moving the antenna but that's a big job, vs just taking the phone off my belt and putting it in the cup holder/arm rest cubby. Go ahead and get a short (2 ft) USB 2.0 extension, you will want the USB port extended out to the armrest cubby so you can flash the firmware if needed. Be sure to use a USB 2.0 cable, the USB 3.0 cables are too fat and you don't need the extra USB 3.0 wires anyway. If your head unit doesn't have the AUX as one of the audio choices then go into engineering mode and look for the menu to enable it. Be sure to do the 9. Reset afterward or it won't accept the changes.
Review: Stay clear if you have a w204 coupe - Well for starters out of the box you got to take directions for what ever reason with a grain of salt cause the toogles are wrong, i figured it out but that being said i cant even install it cause of the size of wire harness that came with it is way to bulky and makes it impossible to push radio back into place even if you try to push connector under radio, so being as it is i have not been able to enjoy it at all short from hooking it all up and making sure it work to begun with... Oh and tying the grounds together to take out the whine doesnt really work well...it does a little bit but its still very well present...not happy with product at all.....would not recommemd

## Features

- Suitable vehicle: Road Top Wireless Carplay Retrofit Kit Decoder fit for Mercedes Benz C/E/CLA/GLA/GLK/CLS/ML/GL/GLK/SLK Class 2012-2015 Year with ntg4.5 ntg4.7 System. Not fit for NTG5.0
- Note: Please make sure your original radio system has aux option, because our carplay interface decoder box sound work through the aux channel. Otherwise you need to active it firstly
- A CarPlay interface decoder box: Not a car screen. You just need to remove the dashboard and connect it to the original CD host device using our wires. After installation, your car not only keep original car system, but also add more functions
- One button to switch: Long press the special button of car knob to switch between original radio system and carplay system
- Reverse Camera: Support factory original reverse camera, parking radar; Support aftermarket reverse camera and 360 camera; Support front view camera DVR(CVBS input)
- Original Car Knob Control: For the steering wheel control buttons, the CarPlay interface decoder box support voice control button, Tel button, voice buttons, the other buttons are not supported
- Installation: Please know you need to take out the car dashboard to connect wires. Most of the problems occur because of wrong cable connection and settings but we can fix them. Please confirm all the features work before put everything back

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B084LZL126 |
| Best Sellers Rank | #113,441 in Electronics ( See Top 100 in Electronics ) #2,879 in Car In-Dash Navigation GPS Units |
| Customer Reviews | 3.5 3.5 out of 5 stars (142) |
| Date First Available | February 8, 2020 |
| Item Weight | 2.44 pounds |
| Item model number | 32a04258-c120-45c8-81b1-ef4061c255a1 |
| Manufacturer | Road Top |
| Package Dimensions | 8.66 x 6.69 x 4.33 inches |

## Product Details

- **Audio Output Mode:** Stereo
- **Brand:** Road Top
- **Compatible Devices:** Smartphone
- **Connectivity Technology:** Bluetooth
- **Connector Type:** USB
- **Controller Type:** Android
- **Item Weight:** 1.11 Kilograms
- **Output Power:** 45 Watts
- **Special Feature:** Built-In Bluetooth
- **Surround Sound Channel Configuration:** 4.1

## Images

![Road Top Wireless Carplay Retrofit Kit Decoder for Mercedes Benz C/E/CLA/GLA/GLK/CLS/ML/GL/GLK/SLK Class 2012-2015 Year with ntg4.5 ntg4.7 System, Support Wireless Android Auto, Mirrorlink, Navigation - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71ZxuShYBVL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Style** options.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Makes your early 201x MB new again
*by J***S on February 25, 2022*

This will allow you to have modern Apple/Android functionality on your legacy stereo. Sharing install experiences for others (I have a 2013 E350, other 1st generation E-class models should be similar). I'm in the USA, so I have a LHD car, not sure if this works out for RHD cars. Before you forget, go ahead and set the DIP switches according to the manual. You will need to know if you have the 5.8" or 7" screen, set the switches per the instructions, depending on what screen you have. Also go ahead and attach the two black ground wires together (one from the main harness and the other from the USB harness). You won't get audio if you don't do this, and it's much easier to take care of it beforehand. You'll need to remove the LCD, center vent trim, the radio, the heater controller, the sliding cover/cup holder, and the control knob. Plenty of videos on YT for that. I highly recommend temporarily plugging everything in outside the dashboard, to make sure it all works correctly. If you do this, go ahead and put the center vent trim in position (don't lock it in, just rest it there) and plug in the switches, or else the car will throw errors about a hazard flasher malfunction since it can't find the hazard switch. Don't forget to move the fiber over from the original Quadlock connector to the Quadlock in the harness. The release clip is tiny, it's in the top of the connector. Once you release that the two fibers come out in a black connector. Don't try to take out the individual fibers. Be careful, these are plastic fiber, not as fragile as a glass cable, but still can be easily broken if roughly handled. Once you're sure it's working then take everything back apart and start actually installing it. Here are the best ways I found to route things on my car. I located the control box behind the LCD. That is the only decent place I found that had enough room and allowed the cables to reach. Now starting from the radio cavity, thread the wifi antenna connector, and the white connectors from the two harnesses, past the vent flanges, on the left side. Tuck the wires behind the vent flange on the left side. Take the LVDS cable and run it down the right side the same way. Think of it like a V, the bottom of the V goes to the control box and the two tails stay in the radio cavity. Plug the cables into the control box, working inside the monitor cavity. Now place the control box in position behind the LCD. I had the white connector end pointed down and wifi antenna connector pointing up. It was able to tuck into a recess that extended toward the passenger side. I took a big zip tie and was able to secure the control box to a metal support behind the LCD. Plug the factory cables (LVDS and black power connector) back into the LCD and reinstall it and put the bezel back on. Now the fun part. You have to extend 2 cables to the arm rest. One for your USB and the other for the audio. Route the USB and 3.5 mm cables down past the heater control area and into the space where the cup holder goes. Follow the harness right down the center of the cup holder area to avoid interference with the cup holder. The framework that holds the control knob needs to be unscrewed (4 T20 screws) and then pull up the front end (2 clamps at the front right and left corners. Once you do that you will see a small notch at the front of the armrest compartment. There is just enough clearance to route your audio cable and either your lightning cable or USB extension through this notch and close the framework back up. Wiggle the cords to make sure they're not pinched. I left the end of the lightning cable in the armrest compartment. The red protective cover that went over the Wi-fi antenna connector is the right size to slip over the end of the cable and prevent it from shorting out inside the compartment. You won't need this USB cable except if you want to run a wired connection. (see below, I ended up running a USB extension to get the actual USB connection in the armrest cubby to allow firmware flashes) The audio connects to the adapter that plugs into the MHI port in the back of the armrest compartment. You'll need a ground loop isolator, (item ID B019FC6ZQQ) or else you will get whining noises in the audio. Put the control knob and cup holder assembly back in. Don't forget to throw a towel back over this to prevent scratching the wood. Take the wi-fi antenna and route it down to the heater control area. There is a horizontal flat spot in the structure behind the heat controls that works great to secure the antenna. Reinstall the heater controls. Now all that is left is to plug the connections back into the radio and work it back into the opening. This takes a little bit of patience. The best place for the factory Quadlock is down low behind the heater controls. You may have to put the radio in part way and reach through the vent opening and down behind the radio to help get things where they need to go to allow the radio to seat flush. Don't force it, if it won't set in easy, you are pinching something. Put your vent back in and you're done except for some programming. If you don't want the factory MB voice (who does?) then go into Engineering Mode on the head unit (press and hold 'end call' + '1' + '#' buttons for 10 seconds). Navigate (using the console knob) to menu 7.7 (HU Parameter), then scroll down to find SDS/TTS in the list. Select this and choose Disable. Now hit the Back button until you're back at the root menu, then find menu 9 (Reset) and run this. It does not factory default the HU, this just reboots the unit. This is necessary to make it accept the changes. **new content 4 April 2022, after living with it for a month or so...** I was having problems with it connecting and staying connected. Turns out you have to be within about a foot of the wifi antenna for wireless CarPlay to work effectively (or maybe it's just where I mounted the wifi antenna, above the climate controls). If I leave my phone on the belt clip on my left side (in a USA LHD car) it had a hard time connecting. Once I realized this and put the phone in the cup holder or center console it works flawlessly. If I get motivated enough to pull the radio out again I may try moving the antenna but that's a big job, vs just taking the phone off my belt and putting it in the cup holder/arm rest cubby. Go ahead and get a short (2 ft) USB 2.0 extension, you will want the USB port extended out to the armrest cubby so you can flash the firmware if needed. Be sure to use a USB 2.0 cable, the USB 3.0 cables are too fat and you don't need the extra USB 3.0 wires anyway. If your head unit doesn't have the AUX as one of the audio choices then go into engineering mode and look for the menu to enable it. Be sure to do the 9. Reset afterward or it won't accept the changes.

### ⭐ Stay clear if you have a w204 coupe
*by E***R on November 21, 2025*

Well for starters out of the box you got to take directions for what ever reason with a grain of salt cause the toogles are wrong, i figured it out but that being said i cant even install it cause of the size of wire harness that came with it is way to bulky and makes it impossible to push radio back into place even if you try to push connector under radio, so being as it is i have not been able to enjoy it at all short from hooking it all up and making sure it work to begun with... Oh and tying the grounds together to take out the whine doesnt really work well...it does a little bit but its still very well present...not happy with product at all.....would not recommemd

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Fantastic upgrade for the price! My GLA250 feels so much better appointed now!
*by C***Y on July 27, 2021*

I purchased my 2015 GLA 250 CPO as a bare-bones (no options) well-priced entry point for Mercedes. But, I quickly learned that I needed a backup camera and the so-called "infotainment system" was not very good at providing info (nor entertainment)! (NTG 4.5) I had no navigation, no backup camera, pretty much nothing but a radio and an input for an iPod. It left me using my Android phone for pretty much everything and nothing was integrated with the car. I purchased this unit and I must admit it took me something like a week to install. Granted, I didn't need the car for the week and it was 95 degrees in the shade sometimes, so I didn't spend a lot of time on it each day. But, this installation is not for the faint of heart. It is actually very simple in terms of connections, but taking your Mercedes apart can be tedious and scary. I would watch YouTube videos for different types of installations showing how the different parts of the car were put together, and carefully do one section at a time until I had my entire dash and tailgate carefully disassembled. It was a frightening sight but it all went back together beautifully! I added two cameras: a front camera in the emblem and a rear camera in the rear hatch-latch (each purchased on Amazon for under $40). These work GREAT! When I shift into reverse, the rear view pops up on the screen and when I shift into drive it switches to the front camera for 10 seconds. This is absolutely awesome for parallel-parking in tight spaces. I am having some trouble with connecting to Android Auto; it only seems to work 1 in 3 times or so. But, I have come to realize it is my phone because my husband's phone (we both have Moto Z3s) connects every time. I might reset or replace my phone sometime soon because I expect that will resolve itself with a change of phones. My phone has been acting weirdly in other ways lately, so I am pretty sure something is messed up with my phone. There are two options I wish this unit had in order to make it absolutely perfect: 1. an interface to an OBD2 scanner. Android Auto has no app for that (DUH??) so it would be nice if I could view my real-time dash information on the unit (notice in my photo I have my phone mounted below the stock screen, running Torque Pro). 2. an add-on inline DVR that could record images from the camera. Like, a pass-thru RCA in/out that captures the camera feed as it goes through the unit. That would turn my front camera into a "dash" cam but very unobtrusively. I cannot imagine such a thing doesn't already exist, but I haven't been able to find anything that will do that. The manufacturer points out that they support dashcam standards, but I'm looking not to use my dashcam as the camera feed, but the camera feed as my dash cam. Hope that makes sense. Both these features would be really nice to have, but this thing is an awesome upgrade as it is already. I got what was probably $1200 worth of functionality for $300 (plus a bunch of sweat & swearing). The instructions were perfectly adequate for what needed to be done. I never needed any support so I cannot comment on that. Overall, I am thrilled!

## Frequently Bought Together

- Road Top Wireless Carplay Android Auto for Mercedes Benz C/E/CLA/GLA/GLK/CLS/ML/GL/GLK/SLK Class 2012-2015 Year with ntg4.5 ntg4.7 System, Support Mirrorlink, Navigation, Camera
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*Product available on Desertcart Slovakia*
*Store origin: SK*
*Last updated: 2026-03-19*