ZAR 36212 Ultra Max Oil Modified Polyurethane, QT, Satin

I was finishing a double sliding door and also some floor repair work. My paint store recommended this product to me. I was a little skeptical because I was looking for old style Oil based Varnish but I went with it.sThe ZAR is the best poly I have ever used. It goes on smooth and easy with a brush or foam brush. It covers excellent and dries very fast but not too fast to where you have time to work with it. You could easily do 2 coats in one day if needed.I sanded in between coats with 400 grit paper . Used Semi Gloss on the door, 4 coats and it is just beautiful with a deep gloss look that I was looking for. Used Satin on the spot floor work to match the finish that was already there, perfect match and it blended right in.This is my go to Poly now. Great product

I like this product but it is very hard to get a smooth, level finish. I have preferred oil based PU in the past because I like the amber hue it gives the finish. But pure solvent based finishes are almost a thing of the past. As mentioned in the product literature, this oil modified ,water based polyurethane does impart a slight amber hue so I like it because of that.As others have mentioned, "After sanding the table top well, with very fine sandpaper, I then tried a foam brush and got the same result. I couldn't eliminate the streaks. I sanded well again and did what the label says NOT to do - I added water to thin it. After two more coats, the table top looked perfectly smooth. "I live in Nevada where the humidity, especially after late morning, is 10-13% and temperatures hover between 80 and 95 degrees in summer. Here are some lessons learned- put on a medium coat, too heavy and you risk a milky appearance, too light and it will not flow before flashing. If you see what looks like a holiday after being sure that you covered the surface, DO NOT GO BACK AND OVER-BRUSH! This product flashes FAST (which helps to prevent runs on vertical surfaces) but what looks like a holiday is usually a spot that has begun to dry. I switched to finishing in the early morning whenoutside humidity here is 30-40%. I opened everything up and hung wet towels above my work piece. After the first coat, for successive coats, I wiped down the surface with a damp lint free cloth just before applying the finish. I thinned the product about 20-30% with water for all coats including the first. I have had good success previously wiping on polyurethane but I resisted that with this product and brushed it on because it flashes so fast.Remember, there is an irresistible urge to go back and over-brush when you see a holiday. DON'T DO IT! THIS PRODUCT IS UNFORGIVING IN THAT RESPECT AND IT FLASHES WAY TOO FAST! Fortunately, you can usually fix a botched coat by re-sanding. I sanded between coats with 320 aluminum oxide paper but very carefully. 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper used wet would probably be better. Also, use a tack cloth before applying finish.I used to use a solvent based polyurethane called ZipGuard that I really, really liked but the brand has disappeared as have most other purely solvent based finishes. The oil modified water-based finishes do have some nice qualities and they come close to the solvent based finishes but I still miss the old solvent based products that had a longer working time.Update: I was still having problems resisting over-brushing with the top of my workpiece so I sanded just the top down with 400 grit Wet or Dry paper, using it wet. I then applied more finish using one of those fibre pads that you can using for painting. I thinned the PU about 20% and poured a liberal amount on the top then spread it evenly with the pad. Success! The attached photos show the final coat.

Great for cornhole boards. Use the comb looking brush instead of a roller. Better results

I have finished lots of furniture over the past 40 years and I found this product difficult to use. After reading other reviews, I first tried applying it with a good quality brush, but couldn't get rid of the brush marks. After sanding the table top well, with very fine sandpaper, I then tried a foam brush and got the same result. I couldn't eliminate the streaks. I sanded well again and did what the label says NOT to do - I added water to thin it. After two more coats, the table top looked perfectly smooth. It also cut down on the shine. Their "satin" is very glossy, so thinning it is the way to go if you want satin, not gloss.

After I retired I discovered home improvement. I've since become an addict. One of my latest projects was to pull the twenty-plus-year-old carpet off the stairs in the 92-year-old house I bought, revealing hardwood stairs that matched my flooring. Since my enthusiasm for home improvement far outstrips my knowledge, I asked my son to check with his professional painter friend to recommend a brand of polyurethane that wouldn't keep me off the stairs for a week. ZAR Ultra Max Waterborne was the recommendation, and I'm so glad I went along with it. There is virtually no odor. The product goes on as smooth as silk–of course, you have to follow directions and keep stirring the poly in the can as you go–and there was no need to sand between coats! The result? Fabulously finished stairs that actually make people think I know what I'm doing. I could not be happier!

It's an oil-modified, water-based urethane, so it's compatible with most oil or water based stains. Dries quickly (less than three hours for the satin finish) to a very hard finish (it's intended for floors, but it's great for doors and woodwork). If you're rushed for time, one generous coat will do the job. Easy clean up, too.

I really like this sealer. When received the lid was not on properly and some of it had ran out of the can into the packaging. Would purchase again.

I use this to finish furniture. Compared to many other water based finishes I've tested, this sprays well on both horizontal and vertical surfaces, and is very durable (comparable to oil based polyurethane). For best depth of color and appearance on some woods, it is best to first seal with a coat of shellac or oil based stain (be sure to let oil based stain dry several days, or seal with shellac).