12V 500W Motor Controller Electric Brush Controller DC Motor Speed Control E Brushed Controller

I've been using this style of aftermarket brushed motor controller to 'upgrade' various Razor brand electric vehicles, mostly because from the factory they have a simple on-off throttle and this allows for the installation of a variable speed twist/thumb/foot throttle. It provides you a much smoother and less jerky experience and also the ability to maintain a lower speed for cruising. The other benefit to swapping the existing controller out is having a set of wires that passes the battery's voltage through it when the controller is turned on so I've been using that for the headlight and/or taillight power without having to add a relay or switch. For this controller in particular, I had obtained an old Razor MX350 kids electric dirt bike. They are sized and spec'd for a young teenager up to 140 pounds. The problem is that my daughter is only 6 years old and 60 pounds. The system originally ran on 24V with two 12V SLA (Lead-Acid) batteries wired in series. I first tried an aftermarket 24V controller so that as previously mentioned she would have a variable speed throttle and even limited the top speed with a 10k trim pot (resistor) in line of the +5V going into the throttle but it still just had too much torque in the low end for our comfort level. I got back online and found this 12V controller, pulled the batteries out and re-soldered them in a parallel configuration but with an XT60 connector on each battery so that I can more easily change things back in time when our daughter gains some more weight and experience. First pic is the unit out of the box and the second one is after soldering all new connectors on to suit my needs. This unit has been working great for about a week now and I noticed no difference in runtime. Even though the voltage dropped, the watt hours are the same at 168 in either configuration. I will gladly purchase this again if I ever need another 12V controller.

I I bought the first one months ago and just finally got around to installing it, and it seems to be bad. Second one is acting the same exact way- it is leaking positive current through to the motor side leads with no ground. Throttle controller has no affect.

Used it to put variable throttle on a 1986 Big Foot Powerwheels that I converted to 4x4. Used a variable throttle pedal of of amazon and a key switch to match. Kids love it and it lasts for hours in the rough terrain with the bigger SLA batteries stuffed under the seat.

If there any short occurred then thats it, its burnt, throw it away and buy new one. No any kinda safety in it..

This worked great with my Ryobi 18v conversion on a Power Wheels ride on car, but only lasted about two months, and a total of like 15 rides. Buyer beware.

I'm using this unit on a 24vdc system to take advantage of the 11vdc cutoff. The 24v controller cuts at 22v. I can run 12v or 24v with my setup.So when my two batteries start to slow down at 24v. I flip a switch and its now parallel 12v. Also makes it easier for charging at 12v. Then flip the switch back to 24v and play.

knowing how to hook it up , there are no instructions

I used these to rehabilitate a 20 year old Zappy scooter. They work great, the scooter works, but I had to replace all of the connectors on the wires because I have no idea what any of these things are. It isn't hard to do, but unless your device happens to use these exact connectors, you're going to have to get out the soldering iron and make some changes.

No good