Prevue Pet Products Wrought Iron Flight Cage with Stand F040 Black Bird Cage, 31-Inch by 20-1/2-Inch by 53-Inch

GENERAL DESCRIPTIONThe cage is designed as a large flight cage for perhaps a half-dozen small birds. There are no gaps larger than ½ inch, so it is ideal for small birds. There is much space for the birds to fly, and four multi-compartment feeding watering trays---enough to accommodate many birds simultaneously and to hold a variety of foods. With modification, it can be used for medium size birds (up to the size of an African Gray or Amazon).Some reviewers complain that the cage (at 53" tall) is not as tall as it looks. Actually, the height may be ideal, particularly for parrots. If your parrot is lower than your eye-level, then you are "dominant", and he/she is likely to obey you, otherwise not. It might be coincidental, but my Senegal, which bit me at least once a month when living in a taller cage has not bitten me since I moved him to this new shorter cage a year ago.The vertical design is convenient for home-owners, but not ideal for birds. Height (elevation) is important to all birds, and socially significant for parrots. Parrots (particularly) will make little use of the bottom half of the cage--unless you place all the appealing toys down there. (But, if you do that, they'll quickly become covered with droppings and therefore become unappealing). Caveat, you can make the top half of the cage a dark zone (for sleeping) and/or warm zone (in the winter) by covering it with a dark cloth---which also encourages use of the bottom half of the cage--in which case, you need water dishes, feeding dishes, and toys in the bottom half.ALTERNATIVESMore recently, I also purchased a very similar "ferret" cage, Prevue Hendryx 485 Pet Products Feisty Ferret Home with Stand, Black Hammertone which I find to be more appropriate for medium and large birds, even though the FO40 has some desirable features.> The middle shelf of the 485 makes a nice needed large platform (no middle shelf is included in the FO40).> The removable door in the middle shelf of the 485 makes the cage instantly convertible into 2 cages.> The "lift-out-able" top shelf of the 485 is makes access for cleaning and installing large items (e.g. tree branches, breeding boxes) much easier.> The sliding hatch in the top shelf of the 485 makes easy critter access to the top for playgrounds etc.> The huge front doors of the 485 make easy access or cleaning and installing large items (e.g. tree branches, breeding boxes) much easier.> The small plastic (or maybe metal in some shipments) platforms of the 485 are nice accessories.> The larger bar spacing of the 485 makes it possible to pet your pet's head, and hand-feed him/her without opening the cage.> The slide-out lower platform of the FO40 is much easier to clean (the lower platform of the 485 "lifts" out, but does not slide out).> The feeding doors of the FO40 provide more options for placement of feeding watering dishes (NO feeding doors are included in the 485).> The included perches and feeding trays of the FO40 are a bonus for owners of small birds.There is a larger version of the F040, the Prevue Hendryx F050 Pet Products Wrought Iron Flight Cage, X-Large, Hammertone BlackQUALITYVery good construction quality. Mine arrived in perfect condition.OVERALL DESIGN> Except for the odd number of perch poles the design is ALMOST two independent cages, one on top of the other. Indeed, the addition of an intermediate shelf (NOT included) could convert it to two independent cages. Unfortunately, a "home-made" (non-slide-out) intermediate shelf would be nearly impossible to clean regularly.> The cage is an attractive almost "wrought-iron" pewter color. This "night camouflage" color scheme is also perfect for hiding bird droppings.> There are 2 large doors in front, and 6 small doors (total) on the sides.> Three 3/4" diameter longitudinal perch poles are included.> The 4 dishes can also be located almost anywhere, but are most handy adjacent to the doors.> The legs of the cage are rubber tipped--a nice feature if you decide not to use the rollers.> The black plastic waste tray slides out for cleaning. A bottom shelf, above the waste tray does not slide out with the waste tray, but can slide out separately. So, you can slide either out, independently, to clean, with no danger of the birds escaping.THE PERCH POLES> The 3/4" diameter dowels (perch poles) are a bit large for finches, and other small birds---I recommended adding some 3/8" and 1/2" diameter perches.> Nominally, the included perch poles can be placed anywhere within the cage. But in fact, the perch poles cannot be placed near the panel edges (i.e., where shown in the photo) after the cage is assembled (at least not without substantially loosening the screws). So, if you want the perch poles at those locations, install them while assembling the cage.> The excessive number of small doors, and their locations, greatly restricts the placement of the perch poles---especially for large birds which need some headroom and tailroom---the small doors seem to be in most of the prime locations for the perch poles.> The vertical bar-design also reduces the potential placement of perch poles (there are few vertical "stops"). This is another reason I would have preferred a 1 1/2" mesh for larger birds.> The included perch poles are softwood, easily destroyed by parrots. My Senegal destroyed them within a month.THE FEEDING/WATERING TRAYS> The arrangement of the 4 trays shown in the photo is NOT recommended. The lower feeding trays can easily be contaminated by feces. Lower watering trays can be contaminated by both feces and food thrown out of the upper trays.> The ideal location of the trays is all at the same level, in the upper 1/3 of the cage. Unfortunately the small doors are not well situated for such an arrangement. But there is no "law" that says you have to use the small doors for access---feeding trays could be placed on each side of the upper large door.> A medium-size or larger parrot will quickly destroy the plastic feeding/watering trays--so there is no point in installing them if your have medium or larger sized parrots.MODIFYING TO A PLAY CAGE---FOR BIGGER BIRDSI purchased the cage as a play cage for my medium-size parrot (a Senegal). It is not ideal for this purpose, but can be modified. I would have preferred a 1½ mesh for my larger bird to be able to feed him treats, scratch his head, etc., without opening the cage. A medium-size or larger parrot will quickly destroy the plastic watering trays--so there is no point in installing them. A medium-size or larger parrot is strong enough to force open the side doors, so these need to be wired shut or locked shut. A medium-size or larger parrot cannot really fly in the cage, so it needs climbing and other "recreational facilities". I constructed several platforms with 20 ½" long 5/8" diameter dowels. One platform is for a "swimming pool"--actually a terra cotta plant dish. The terra cotta dish is actually ideal for the purpose---1) it is too heavy for a parrot to lift and dump, 2) evaporation from the sides and bottom keeps the water cool and fresher, and 3) the rough surface is easy for bird feet to grip. One platform is for a "breeding box"--I actually just use a cardboard box which my parrot can hide in to sleep, or to get out of the wind, (or destroy for fun) etc. Other platforms are for toys, all connected by several 2' long ladders. The flat top is a good surface for an "outside" playground. I suggest covering the top with a green or black towel---birds instinctively fear attack from above---and are most comfortable with a ceiling.The 20 1/2"-long X 5/8" diameter dowel rods I use are cut from inexpensive "Home Depot" "48-inch hardwood dowels". Softwood dowels are quickly destroyed by parrots. Indeed, my Senegal's favorate "chew toys" are 2' softwood ladders.THE SMALL DOORS> The 6 small spring-loaded doors may be ideal for finches and other really small birds, but are mostly annoying and unnecessary for larger birds. I would have preferred vertical doors which would interfere less with perch placement, and could easily be made lockable.> Presumably, the 6 small doors are for access to the 4 included feeding/watering trays, but still seems to be at least 2 doors too many.> There is no easy way to lock the spring doors (but leave them easily openable) which could defeat a smart parrot. Even a hefty and determined parakeet can probably force a door open---so if you use the cage for parakeets and larger birds, the only practical solution is to permanently wire the small doors (or most of them) shut. A paper-clip may work as a "lock" (if your parrot doesn't see you install it). I've installed a feeding dish ON a door, on the theory that my Senegal will not be able to both push open the door, and squeeze out with the dish in the way---so far, it has worked out very well. Loving Pets Coop-Cup with Bolt Holder Pet Bowl, 10-Ounce << highly recommended, much easier to remove to clean than the included plastic feeders.THE BIG DOORS> Although the big doors are big enough for most purposes, I would have preferred to also have the entire front panels to be openable, for the purpose of adding large boxes or large natural tree limbs, etc. The "traditional" door lock mechanism is barely adequate.ASSEMBLY> As in assembling all such "furniture", initially install the screws loosely (i.e., with perhaps 1/4" remaining to be screwed in), and tighten all when finished.> As noted above, if you want the perch poles to be located near the panel edges (as shown in the photo) install them during cage assembly.> Similarly, although the wheels should be installed last, you may have to lay the cage on its side and use a soft hammer (or a short length of 2x4 to hammer them into place.> There were no "missing holes" (reported by some reviewers) on my cage. It is entirely possible that the holes were NOT missing on those reviewers' cages either. The upper and lower front panels are NOT interchangeable (the upper has those holes, the lower does not). Same for the upper and lower back panels: upper panel has holes, lower does not.> The instructions are fairly good, but require some talent at assembling such things.> No tools are needed except for the included allen wrench. However, there are alot of screws. An electric screwdriver with a hex bit the right size makes the project much easier.> The cage can be assembled by one person, but a helper can make it easier.> It would be ideal if there were removable stickers on the panels "A", "B", etc., but there aren't. However, you can identify the panels with a little logic.HOW TO IDENTIFY THE COMPONENTSShelves (have no doors and are fully framed {except for top shelf})G> Slide-in Shelf (just above the black waste tray): The only fully-framed panel with a handleC1> Bottom Shelf (above the wheels): The only fully-framed panel without a handleC2> Top Shelf: The only incompletely-framed panel the same size as the Slide-in Shelf and the Bottom PanelSide Panels (are the only small panels and are the only panels with small doors): The upper and lower sides are NOT interchangeable. Be sure to assemble with doors opening outward.L3, R3> 2 Upper Side Panels (left and right; interchangeable): The two panels with 2 small doors eachL2, R2> 2 Lower Side Panels (left and right; interchangeable): The two panels with 1 small door eachBack Panels (the only big panels with no doors and with a frame on only on the bottom edge): The upper and lower panels are NOT interchangeableB2> Upper Back Panel: has 2 holes on bottom side of the frame into which bar wires from the lower panel fit.B1> Lower Back Panel: does not have the two holesFront Panels (the only panels with large doors; and have a frame on only on the bottom edge): The upper and lower panels are NOT interchangeable. Be sure to assemble with doors opening outward.F2> Upper Front Panel: has 2 holes on bottom side of the frame into which bar wires from the lower panel fit.F1> Lower Front Panel: has 1 asymmetrical hole on front of bottom edge of the frame--this is for the "bell" (which is installed with the one short screw) which locks the Slide-in Shelf in place.GENERAL ADVICE TO PARROT OWNERSIf your parrot is in a particularly uncooperative mood, stand on a short stool---the taller you are, the more "authority" you have. Once you've got the parrot, tightly wrap him up in a towel for at least 15 minutes while holding, stroking, and cooing to the towel---that regresses your parrot to the "baby" mode (smothered under mama's wing), and will make him/her more compliant. Even if your bird does not have the opportunity to fly, he knows he can (or not)---a wing-clipping can also regress an aggressive parrot back to "helpless" baby mode.> Click on “Stoney” just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.

Second time I've bought one of these cages. They are top notch! Easy choice to spend a little more on one of these than the Yaheetech version.Only complaints I have about the cage design, after having had one for my budgies for years now:- If you don't use the grate for the bottom of the cage (my personal preference, as I let my birds forage at the bottom), there's a gap between the tray and the back of the cage, with which substrate and seed hulls easily end up kicked out.- The side doors are kept closed via springs, so you can't leave them open at all (maybe a bird safety feature, harder to accidentally leave them open?). A little annoying for setting up the cage with toys, and one of the doors' springs wasn't tight so a bird could easily push out. I had to use a zip tie on that one. Not sure if there's a way to tighten the springs.Otherwise, they're a great size for multiple small birds, are very solid, and I haven't had any rust or other other issues with mine and it's been about four years now. I also love that there's not a huge gap under them like some cages, less wasted space and plenty room on top for storage or another cage.

We wanted a bigger space for our quaker, and he loves his new cage! The size was perfect! The shelf at the bottom helps us store bird supplies and the wheels help us move his cage with ease.Heads up: Putting the cage together was a lot like building a house of cards, and it required two people.

My conures have lived in this cage for a few months now and its been great. They have plenty of room to move and are comfortable even with a bunch of perches and toys. Its a little difficult to put together at first but cleaning is really easy. Would only say I wish the little side doors had some form of built in lock. Had to get some small caribeners ourselves to keep em closed