POR-15 Top Coat Paint, Direct to Metal Paint, Long-term Sheen and Color Retention, 1-gallon, Chassis Black

i have bought 4 cans of this stuff over the last 4-5 years. very good long lasting paint. great for outdoor applications.

Great quality from POR-15

Expensive but worth it. The paint was thick, but spread well (maybe the can I received was old?). A small dab on the tip of your brush can be spread quite a bit giving great coverage. The 1-Quart can almost completely covered this cattle chute with one coat inside and out. I'm disappointed with the color, but not the paint itself. Based on the photo and even the can when I received it, I expected the paint to be a burgundy or maroon color. Instead, it's like a dark Pepto-bismal pink (photos of first coat application are attached). I will be the only cattle farmer in America with a pink cattle chute and I'm looking forward to the comments from my neighbors. It goes great with the barn paint that was supposed to be a dark brown but turned out a military olive drab green instead. I should have stuck with black...but, I wanted a matte finish (the other colors were gloss) and I wanted to be able to see where I had painted over the black POR-15 Rust as I was working. The chemical bond creates a coat that is extremely hard and after a cold night I could see beads of condensation on the painted surface which will help shed water and prevent additional rust progression over time. It was a relief to get this rusty cattle chute restored. A few more muted color options would be nice (in addition to the bright primary colors red, orange, lime green, and yellow). This is the first time I've used a rust preventive product on my equipment and I am impressed. It will be interesting to see how well it holds up after I run cattle through the chute the first time.Wear rubber gloves while using (it takes about a week for it to wear off of your hands). Disposable brushes were sufficient (try to pull out loose bristles in advance). Use Saran wrap to cover the lid and can when you are finished using it to prevent it from hardening up (otherwise you may never get the lid off again).

Not quite the same paint as POR-15 Rust Preventative paint Black.I understand the need for different final coat colors, especially when needed for UV protection, but this stuff is a different paint than the original POR-15. As others have noted - this top coat flows in very strange ways. In some ways it seems like it continues to flow for many hours, so when painting any vertical surface with it - be careful as it will continue to flow, drip and run long after you think that you have brushed out a nice smooth surface.Like Black POR-15 this settles and smooths out fairly quickly, so it is great for hiding brush marks. The issue is that it does not stop flowing for many hours. I was painting a large steel tank 14"D x 45" long and so I used original POR-15 to cover all rust spots and bare metal. That paint has it own very unique flow qualities but I have used it long enough to know how to use it. Also know that within a couple of hours it has started to dry enough to stop flowing. But this White Top Coat is different. I VERY carefully brushed it out so it was applied evenly and it looked great But then hours later I check it and it was full of runs & drips. So be very careful when applying to any non-horizontal surface.Also believe that this white Top Coat has a different chemistry, as you can thin it and clean brushes with regular Mineral Spirits. No way with Original POR-15 Black which is almost impervious to Mineral Spirits. For example - the brush I used for this Top Coat I could store in a small can of Mineral Spirits and it would remain soft and usable again. But for brushes used for original POR-15 they just hardened rock solid in the same container.I love POR-15 but be aware that this is a different paint.

I used it on my frame its great

I discovered this product while doing research on rust prevention for a project that had been long in the planning stages: restoring my 1985 Jeep CJ-7 from the frame up. I'd heard of POR-15 before and after reading some pretty good things about it I decided to give it a try. If you want to maximize the life of the metal for whatever it is you're wanting to protect or restore, then read on...First, you are well-advised to completely read the instructions included with POR-15 before you get started! And if you take nothing else I'm writing with you, at least heed this advice: be absolutely certain to cover yourself head-to-toe BEFORE applying POR-15! Put on an old long sleeve T-shirt & some jogging sweats or an old pair of pants that you don't care about. (Trust me, they'll be trashed by the time you're through, depending on the size of your project.) Alternately, you can buy one of those 1-piece painter's suits sold at most paint, autoparts & big box hardware stores. Yeah, they're hot & sorta stifling, but it sure beats having this stuff bond to your skin for a week or two. (Don't ask how I know. LOL) Just remember, if it gets on your skin it will NOT wash off no matter how much scrubbing you do - short of scrubbing your friggin' skin off! POR-15 will have to wear off, like a dye. Don't say you weren't warned! And speaking of covering yourself... if you're in a garage you ought to make sure your project is covered underneath, too. Sit your project on / roll your vehicle chassis onto a clean hole-free tarp. It's cheap insurance. Otherwise, if you drip or splash any POR-15 on your floor you'll be scraping & chiseling it off. NOT fun. I still have patches in my garage more than 3 years after glopping the stuff on, and having it land in/on places I never intended!The POR-15 guys recommend some prep work for heavily-rusted projects. They also offer a spray for new or clean surfaces that's designed to chemically "etch" the metal for better coating retention. I initially just used a grinder with a wire wheel cup attachment to strip away the larger scale & rust deposits. After some consideration I decided to go ahead and have the entire chassis professionally sandblasted. (This was a wise choice, as it exposed how completely rusted-through the rear arms of my CJ frame were. Repair required fabricating & welding in replacement steel pieces.) Anyhoo... I applied 2 coats on the Jeep's frame. POR-15 applies easily and can literally be brushed or rolled right on top of existing rust. After almost 3 years the POR-15 is holding up remarkably well, and though it took time to do the job properly it has been worth the effort.One last piece of advice: if you have any of the stuff left in the can when you finish, be sure to apply a piece of plastic wrap (Saran Wrap) between the can & the lid! If any of this stuff gets in the groove and you just tamp the lid shut, you will have effectively glued the lid on permanently. It's best to cover the rim of the can with some masking or painter's tape or buy one of those re-usable rubber snap-on pouring spouts (with the sealable spout lids) and just pour a small amount into a disposable bucket or pail, refilling as you go. It may take a little longer this way, but it will help keep POR-15 from drying out prematurely if the pail is just left open. It will also help avoid the frustrating "lid welding" mistake should any of it get into the lid groove.BOTTOM LINE: Yes, POR-15 is kind of expensive, but if you have a project you're working on and you want it to last ...it's money well-spent.

The best rust paint out there. Does tend to run easily so do thin coats. What ever you do, don’t wipe your brush off on the rim of the can or you’ll never get the lid back off. I used masking tape all around the edge of the can to be sure I didn’t get any on it, and removed it before resealing the can.

It work great

This stuff was great to use after all the new metal flooring and Chanel in jeep. Painted inside and out before undercoating. Recommended by a professional custom body tech. This jeep floor will last forever

product worked better than anything else. Should have invested in the good stuff to start with.

Paint is thick like mud. Will not use.