Oatey 42725 2 in. Backwater Valve Device for Integral Trap Shower Drain

Fits my 1940's basement floor drain "P-Trap drain" just perfectly. Finally got the old one out and this dropped in like a charm. Be aware the rubber rim is thin and not robust material. The seal, when I originally installed it, was very good. However... I tried to lube it up with WD40 after it was installed, thinking that might tighten the seal, since it did upleak a tiny bit when my washing machine is trying to force-feed a tub-full of water down the basement drain (only enough to very slightly fill the drain's cup). However the WD40 corrupted the rubber, causing it to buckle & crinkle and therefore it started leaking way too much. I then tried Dupont Silicone spray, which is supposed to be safe on rubber. I guess it was the volatiles used in the spray delivery, because it buckled again and I had to replace it with a fresh one. Which, thanks to the low price of this item, is not painful. It would be nicer if this had a nice big faux-rubber "O" ring that could withstand some crap instead of a thin, obviously real-rubber skirt, but as long as I don't do anything stupid, I think the seal this provides is solid enough, and will hopefully last a while. Make sure to pair it with a water-leak alarm just in case ;) P.S. Yes my antique cast-iron 1939 version of this ball valve was difficult to get out... it was rusted in there good. Finally the light bulb came on, and I grabbed my sawz-all with a metal-cutting blade and cut a little chunk out of the old collar, after that I was able to chisel it loose and unscrew it. Just don't go deeper than necessary with the sawz-all to avoid damaging the threads in the female portion of the drain in the floor. Hope that helps -- it only took me 14 years to figure out how to get the old one out!! :)

The float ball in my 40 year-old, cast-iron floor drain somehow broke. No plumber here, so, what to do? Considered breaking the concret floor and replacing drain unit with same-shaped ABS unit. At some point, I realized the old ball was held in place by a ring which was a separate piece from the drain itself. After using hammer, chisel, and hacksaw blades, I managed to get the brass ring out, preserving the threads. Searched for suitable replacement and came upon this. Let's hear it for standard threads! This screwed right in to where I had removed the 40 year-old original. Perfect fit and function!

Easy peasy. You put it in your floor drain, it stops back flows during storm surges etc. Hasn't been through a big storm yet but looks like it should work in theory.

I am a contractor, I bought this thinking it would work, for the life of me I could not figure out what it did or how it worked, sent it back to Amazon

Worked perfectly to fix my basement floor drain that would sometimes drain slowly. I was poking around with the old valve and it seemed like it was getting stuck closed sometimes. I found this, took the old one out, put this one in, and it drains very nicely now. It's a standard design, but still a little akward to remove or install. Google said to use a cold chisel, but I ended up using a small bolt held in the center with vice grips. That allowed me to apply pressure on both sides at once and worked quite well.