API LIQUID SUPER ICK CURE Fish remedy, Freshwater and Saltwater Fish Medication 4 fl oz(Pack of 1), White

API Super Ick Cure Tank Details: -10 gallon, heavily planted -Driftwood with current biofilm -78°F usually -6.5 pH, slowly increasing with blanched cuttlebone -0 ppm Nitrite & Nitrate <0.25 ppm Ammonia -Relatively low GH & KH; working on establishing a bit higher levels 1x Crowntail Male Betta 2x Shrimp 1x Mini Mexican Lobster 2x Nerite Snails 1x Chinese Striped Butterfly Loach 1x Golden Siamese Algae Eater Stocking is not ideal; however an acquaintance of mine needed to get rid of the algae eater & loach asap so I was working with what I had. Mid-process of cycling to upgrade to a 40 gallon breeder. Fluval filter is rated for 30 gallons and my water parameters have always been excellent. No bio-spikes, no tank aggression, everyone gets a frozen or blanched diet. Was unable to sufficiently quarantine the loach or algae eater (completely my fault and inability) so that’s how we ended up here… Onto the Ich! Everyone has been okay for about a week; then two days ago (as of May 12th, 2026) I noticed a singular white spot on my betta (Sukuna). Genuinely thought it was a color shift or mutation since he is still a juvenile. Nope; more spots appeared within the two days. Immediate yikes, and I knew I had messed up horrifically with ‘saving’ those two bottom-feeders. Immediately ordered API Super Ick Cure. It’s important to note that no other fish had shown signs of ick. No spots, no lethargy or rubbing, etc. Sukuna did not display any behavioral changes; no real rubbing or scratching, no lethargy, no loss in appetite. Maybe had his fins a bit more narrow. However I was confident this was ick and not something else. Going into this; I knew there was a massive risk of treating given the invertebrates present. I was unable to set up a quarantine tank, so we had to go risky and treat the whole tank. It should be noted this is not recommended as the copper in ick treatments can harm / kill invertebrates and loaches, etc. Before treating, I did a 30% water change. Tested water beforehand, parameters were perfect as usual. Used water conditioner plus stress coat on replacement water. Day Zero, 5/12: Removed activated charcoal portion of filter media. Treated with 5ml despite having a 10 gallon; I wanted to try and salvage the invertebrates and loach if possible. I also gradually began to increase the temperature from 78° to 84°, over a period of 18 hours. Cranked up my airstone output and filter aeration as warm water doesn’t hold as much dissolved O2. Tentatively hopeful, everyone seemed okay. Day One, 5/13: Everyone still alive & active. Sukuna does seem to be flashing / rubbing on things now, but he does seem to have less white spots attached. Did a 20% water change, treated new water with conditioner + stress coat. Treated with 5 mL of Super Ick Cure. Temp up to 86° this seemed to get the rest of the white spots off so they could hatch & become vulnerable to treatment. Day Two, 5/14: Everyone great again this morning. Both shrimps still alive, one even molted. Everyone still active, inverts still eating (fed after water change, before adding treated water). Increased water aeration and air stone has resulted in a small fin tear, but other than that Sukuna is extremely active, very engaged and eating great. No more white spots. 20% water change, 5 ml Ick treatment. Temp at 84-86°. Days Three, 5/15: Sukuna seemed a littler lethargic / breathing fast today, but still ate and swam some. Made sure to adjust airstone to get more O2. Dosed at 5 mL but did not do water change. Day Four, 5/16: Sukuna was much more active and engaging today. Ate his food. Everyone is still alive. Did not change water, and did not medicate. Day Five, 5/17: Everyone is active and alive still. Did not change water, but did medicate again with 5 mL. Added stress-coat to the water, about 5 mL. Day Six, 5/18: Everyone still good! Did a 20% water change. Did not medicate water, but added stress coat. Day Seven, 5/19: Everyone alive and well. Considering this my last day of treatment, but I will kept the aquarium temp up to 84° for the next few days. Will treat with 5 mL today, change water tomorrow, and call my tank Ich free!

I recently used the API Liquid Super Ick Cure for my aquarium, and I have to say, it's a lifesaver! Here's why I'm giving it a 5-star review: 1. Fast-Acting Treatment: This liquid medication is incredibly effective in treating Ich (White Spot Disease), which can be a nightmare for aquarium owners. I noticed a significant improvement in just a couple of days after starting treatment. My fish looked much better, and the white spots on their skin began to disappear. It's definitely a quick and reliable solution! 2. Works for Both Freshwater and Saltwater Fish: I love how versatile this product is. Whether you have a freshwater tank or a saltwater aquarium, this medication works for both types of fish. This is a huge plus because I have a mixed tank, and I didn’t need to worry about using separate products for different species. It’s a one-stop treatment! 3. Easy to Use: The API Liquid Super Ick Cure is very straightforward to use. The dosing instructions are clear and easy to follow, making the whole process less stressful. The liquid form makes it easy to add directly to the tank without any mess. I just followed the recommended dosage, and it worked wonders. 4. Safe for Fish: What I appreciate most is that this medication is safe for my fish when used as directed. I didn’t see any signs of distress or negative side effects in my fish, which is always a concern when treating a sick tank. They were able to continue swimming and eating while undergoing treatment. 5. Affordable and Effective: Considering how much I’ve spent on other fish medications that didn’t work, this product was a great value for the price. You get 4 fl oz in a single bottle, which lasts quite a long time, especially for smaller tanks. The results speak for themselves – effective treatment at an affordable price. 6. Keeps the Tank Safe: I was initially worried about using medication in my tank because of the potential harm to plants or beneficial bacteria, but this treatment is safe for use with plants and biological filters. It didn’t seem to affect the tank's overall health, which is a huge relief. 7. Peace of Mind for Fish Owners: As a fish owner, it’s always stressful when diseases strike, but having a reliable treatment like the API Liquid Super Ick Cure gives me peace of mind. I know I can trust this product to handle Ich outbreaks effectively and efficiently. Final Thoughts: The API Liquid Super Ick Cure is an essential product for any aquarium owner dealing with Ich. It’s effective, safe, and easy to use, with fast results. If your fish are suffering from White Spot Disease, this medication is a must-have in your aquarium care kit. 🌟 Highly recommend it! It saved my fish and my tank’s health!

Got store fish. (Mollies) Noticed ich. Treated ich with this. Would work a little but come right back as soon as I stopped treating. (No carbon, planted 10 gallon.) Consulted various sources. (Sources said dose more often.) As it had done no harm thus far to my plants, snails, and fish, I started a full dose every day for six days with partial water changes right before the next dose and that did the trick! Can't beleive it worked after such a stubnorn battle. Thought I would need a 'more modern' ich cure. But, my mollies are spot free and super lively now! I had lost one while waiting on shipping that got delayed a day despite Prime. Way to go Amazon.. It did stain the silicone seal on the inside edges of my tank (see photo), but didn't discolor my snails, fish, or plants. My glofish is still bright pink, my silver barb is still silver. My scarlet temple flowers are still white.

My goldfish developed white spots and purchased this right away. Followed instructions as suggested and the white spot issue went away in about a week. Doesn’t work instantaneously and must be patient for the liquid to work to heal the fish. The liquid does make the water turn blue and the aquarium will be cloudy because you need to remove the filter.

I received a shipment of fish and even after quarantine they brought ich to my main tank. It took them more than a week to get to be delivered, and their box was crushed so they were very stressed-out which aids with the development of ick. Poor babies (anyway, I didn't notice the ick right away so I lost all but two of my tanks original inhabitants, a female and I was certain I would lose her as she floated vertical in the tank and barley ate. I added this medication following the instructions to the letter and she survived, her and 4 of the new babies I ordered and one baby I already had in my tank. This stuff WORKS, and it works fast. I didn't have a charcoal filter but the 25% water change seemed to be adequate in removing the medicine residue. I will be adding this to my aquatic medicine cabinet.

3 of my 6 fish developed ick; the bottle says it treats 118 gallons, but I put 8 10ml shots in my 80 gallon tank and the bottle was empty. I removed the charcoal and bumped the temperature up to 82° and the fish were spry and looking 10x better the next day. It's dyes the water blue and requires a change of water eventually, but it's super effective.

It worked very well for me, I did exactly what it said in the instructions and my fish healed after 2 days

Overview: I strongly advise anyone trying to fight ich to do some research on it's lifecycle before buying this product. I cannot deny that it works, but it did not work as fast as it claims (I do not think anything can) and it took me an entire bottle (and an entire bottle of Jungle Ich) to fix my problem. I should also mention that I had to buy a heater to increase the temperature to 86F which is probably played a bigger role in eradicated this parasite. My mystery snails did not tolerate the treatment very well. I followed the directions *exactly* as stated, but repeated when my fish still had ich until gone (the instruction did not say to repeat, I just did it since the produce didn't technically do what it claimed). Truly, the best way to keep ich from your tank is to keep the ammonia and nitrate/nitrites down by maintaining a good biological filter so your fish do not get sick and to increase the temperature to 86F where it cannot reproduce but your fish can tolerate for a few weeks. Pros: 1.) Makes your water inhospitable for the parasite to survive. 2.) Aids in removing ich from tank. 3.) None of my fish died while using this, which I cannot say for ANY other chemical intervention I have used. Cons: 1.) Does not kill ich in 48 hours or less like it says, I don't think anything can. 2.) Although it warns about this, it turns your water blue and stains the rubber gasket lining and other silicone things in your aquarium. It stained harder, non-rubber decor initially, but the stains have since dissipated. 3.) Absolutely not friendly for snails. I have used malachite green in my tank from other brands and they have never been affected, but this stuff seems to poison them. Final thoughts: if you are fighting ich and have never done so before... do not buy this product and expect it to fix all of your problems. I am very conscious of my water levels (e.g. ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, etc) and found that keeping them pristine keeps your fishes healthy and the best way to do this is to do the two following things: 1.) Do not overfeed (#1 cause of throwing off water balance and therefore fishes immense system) 2.) Learn how to establish and maintain a biological filter (usually with a SPONGE filter and an air pump, ~$15 on Amazon, and not one of those pieces of crud with expensive refillable cartridges you shouldn't need. This will keep water levels pristine and your fish will naturally fare against it. 3.) Increase water temperature to 86F slowly and keep it there, lower it if fish seem stressed until you find a temperature ABOVE 82F that works. 82-86F is recommended, but at 86F it cannot reproduce and should die off without the need of using this medication at all (sorry, API). 4.) Buy API's water testing kits until you learn what you are doing, and their other products when you need them. This one, however, is sorta pointless.

When i saw the small white dots on the fin of my fish, I immediately increased the temperature and added more API salt... 2 days later the fish were all fine, but was not sure if the invisible parasites were still roaming or multiplying in my aquarium... few days later I recieved the product and did follow the treatment as indicated in the bottle...now all my fish are fine ...and they are very happy.

For me worked better sea salt .. maibe its my fault

This medicine is actually a wonder-medicine, I should say, because it reduced the symptoms in one use. Usually the ICH medication or any other medication shouldn't be used in fry tank, but this time, I used it in Jaguar Cichlids fry tank (2 month old fry), in one day 90% spots disappeared! I used 4-5 drops in small tank and a pinch of aquarium salt. Then changed water after 6 hours. Again repeated the same. I am not sure if it is correct method, but it works. I highly recommend this for breeders. Thanks for this excellent medicine.

Producto natural, dio resultado desde el primer tratamiento

I recently used **API White Spot Cure 118ml** when I noticed the first signs of white spot on a few of my fish. I started the treatment right away, followed the instructions carefully, and removed the carbon from my filter as recommended. Within a few days, I could already see an improvement. The white spots gradually disappeared, and my fish became much more active and started eating normally again. The treatment was easy to use, and the bottle contains enough medication for multiple doses. I also appreciated that it worked without causing any noticeable issues with the rest of my aquarium when used as directed. Overall, this is an effective and reliable treatment to keep on hand for emergencies. I hope I won't need it often, but I'm glad to have it available if white spot appears again.