Aprilaire Humidifier 24V Drainless Whole House Humidifier w/ Auto Digital Control .7 Gallons/hr

Sur les photos, il me semblait parfait pour mon système central mais la sortie n’est pas du bon côté, pas comme sur les photos que je voyais. Je vous le retourne dans les jours qui suivent

Just would like to know what should I do in this situation: sending back to Amazon or contacting manufacture Aprilaire.

I spent a lot of time deciding on a humidifier. I checked humidity levels all over the house and they were pretty consistent at 23-25% at 25-30 degrees outside. My home is 3000 sf and the specs for this model put that size at its limit. I was debating between the 600 and this model, the 400. Ultimately, I picked this model for its efficient water usage and after a lot of use I am positive I made the right choice. Unlike other humidifiers this one does not drain water unless there is a problem. Water still comes in from the top and flows over the water panel but water flow stops when a holding cup gets filled on the bottom. Other models just keep running water until there is no longer a call for humidity by the humidistat. The water in the cup is then wicked up and then water flow turns on again, This happens over and over as needed.Installation was pretty straight forward. It took $36 worth of parts at the hardware store and about 3 hours to get it installed. Tape the supplied outline on either the supply (make sure it's above the AC Coil) or the return duct and cut a hole. Find a spot for the bypass (a 6" round duct) on the other duct and make a hole there. The unit mounts the the duct with several screws (self taping sheet metal screws make fast work) and two screws for the 6" duct coming off of it. Just a tip - if the unit can be mounted with the first section of duct attached then screw it on before mounting it. I had a little trouble getting a drill in there once it was mounted to the furnace. I used metal tape on the edges of the unit itself and all the duct joints. I used two adjustable elbows and a short section of flex duct to make the connection between the unit and the bypass.Now for the water. I did more research on this than I care to admit. Here's what I kept reading, if the furnace does not have long run cycles then run hot water to the humidifier. They explained it that if the furnace doesn't get hot for a long time then the humidifier will not work as efficient. So, with that logic I ran hot water to it. The kit includes a saddle valve which makes for an easy install. Unfortunately these aren't the greatest so I put in a different valve. This took more time than anything else. Once the valve was in, I ran the shortest possible length of tubing to the humidifier in an attempt to keep the incoming hot water as hot as possible. After running the humidifier for some time now, my opinion is the hot water makes no difference. The water flow doesn't run enough to keep it hot for very long. I found that water will run for maybe 1 minute max before the fill cup fills and shuts off the water. After a couple minutes the cup will empty and water will run again, but this time for even less time because the water panel is already wet. The heat from the furnace, even on a short run time, seems to do just fine.Next was the wiring. Turn off power to the furnace to avoid frying the board. I tapped into an existing 24VAC line for the power, connected the C (common) and H (humidifier) from the furnace board, the white and yellow from the humidifier and the outside temp sensor wires to the humidistat. I mounted the humidistat before the humidifier on the cold air return.The humidistat will work in automatic mode based on outside temperature. I found this a little conservative for my home. When in manual mode I can maintain over 40% humidity without a problem. I usually don't keep it this high but wanted to see if it could do it. I took the same humidity readings as prior and have a reading within 3% throughout the house.

Let me start off by saying I installed this myself, and I am a technician by profession, so it may have been easier for me than for some people. It did not seem very complicated to me though, and the directions included appear very clear and straightforward. I think anyone with some basic tools and mechanically inclined could do this themselves, otherwise you might want to hire a professional installer. The kit included everything I needed except sheet metal screws and tubing (1/4" copper for water supply, 1/2 clear vinyl for drain), and some additional 14-20 AWG wire nuts. I also bought an additional T-fitting with 1/4 turn shut off valve to hook up the water supply in my 1/2" copper hot water pipe. I don't recommend using the saddle valve they provide in the kit for the piping, as they frequently fail, and do not meet code. I mounted the unit on the return manifold, and used a couple of 90° 6" elbows and a few feet of flexible HVAC hose for the bypass duct, and sealed it all with the silver foil HVAC tape.As for the functionality of the unit, it's working great so far. I really like the water saving feature on it. It comes with a composite material filter (paper/metal screen) and a tray with float sensors to shut off the water valve if it gets full. This makes for a much more economical use of water in my opinion, and still has an overflow drain tube in case of malfunction. I like the outdoor temperature sensor to use the automatic feature for humidity adjustment, and it also has a feature to turn on the furnace blower to circulate and humidify the air if the humidity level is too low, separate from the thermostat control, which is very nice. Both features work perfectly so far, and my relative humidity went up 10% after the first day. This is the most precise and full control featured humidifier I saw at this price point, and was a very good value for the money.

I’m impressed by those who say they installed this in a couple hours after spending $30 at the hardware store on supporting supplies. I’m an advanced DIYer and I think I spent around $300 on various things: pvc tubing, copper tubing, valve, condensate pump, etc etc and I’m probably about 8 hours into it overall. But this baby is in and running for a few weeks.4000 sf house with the furnace this is installed on conditioning around 3000 of the square feet. I’m running this unit manually and getting about a 10% increase on my home’s relative humidity, from 30% to around 40% which is a huge improvement in comfort- from a dry eye and temperature tolerance standpoint. 72 is now perfectly acceptable to everyone whereas at lower humidity we really needed the house at 74.I’m operating this on a variable speed Trane furnace. We operate the fan on low (50% speed) 24-7 which helps the function of the humidifier. I did not use a hot water line to supply the unit and don’t think I will need to.My digital controller was broken out of the box and I am running the unit manually. It’s supplied with water continuously and as the water dries up a level switch fires the solenoid valve and fresh water flows into the unit automatically. Then the cup at the bottom fills again and the level switch closes the solenoid and water flow. There’s no wasted water to the drain which is super cool.Since we use the furnace fan 24-7, I didn’t need to wire the electric controller into the furnace. This is great because I won’t void my Trane warranty this way. They essentially operate independent of each other but if the furnace was shut off the level switch on the humidifier would shut the water to the humidifier down. If that doesn’t work, then the water will overflow into a drain, in my case a condensate pump. I plan to use a separate humidistat to create a feedback loop to prevent the humidifier from making the air too humid. But I don’t think there’s much risk of that in our area, I’m just being thorough and fastidious.The only thing to add in my case is that I can get more humidification by running my furnace fan speed higher. This would increase airflow through the humidifier pad and shift the improvement from a 10% increase to something higher. But since we’re getting what we need on fan speed low, no reason to spend the extra electricity