Yunbotong CR10 Bi-Metal Heatbreak, Upgrade Smooth Bi Metal Titanium + Copper Heatbreak High Temperature Throat for Creality 3D Printer CR10 Ender 3 V2 PRO Ender 5 CS3 S4 S5 Hotend

Ran this with an .8mm nozzle, full volcano block, and, admittedly ran some pretty high heat for PETG (hence wanting this upgrade), but it didn't even make it through 2 days of printing before it completely broke in half at the throat, leaving half of it fused to the heat block which was damaged beyond repair.Will try another brand next time

I own both the cr10v2 and cr10v3. I was very disappointed to find out creality lied to us claiming their printer is a full metal hot end. It’s NOT. But THIS cheap little mod turns it into a full metal!Just a quick tip on the cr10sMake sure to replace your nozzle before you install this.If you install this without a nozzle in, it will screw too far down into the hotend. It will still work for a few prints like mine did but eventually it’ll stop working. Just got super clogged up, had to break it back down and reinstall it after I put a new nozzle in. Worked like a charm after that. No more melting the Bowden tube! I tested it by ramping up to 260c for about 10 minutes just to see. Bowden tube was completely fine without any signs of melting. This would be my first upgrade on a new cr10.

I have seen reviews criticizing the packaging, saying it was not packaged well and was bent. This item came in a sealed plastic sleeve with a foam sheet wrapped around it, inside a corrugated cardboard box, so there was little chance of it being damaged in transit. I will give them kudos for packaging.I threaded it into my hot end by hand, and the threading is correct, it was completely straight and true, and was simple to screw in with my fingers. The bimetal portion SEEMED to be well made, and did not have any slippage between the two materials as I tightened it (yet.....).Now the problems began - I found that the new piece was considerably longer than the original, and would not work. So, it took it out and compared it to the original part. The main problem seemed to be - it was NOT the length it was advertised as. The listing says 27.5 mm, which would be great for the Ender 3 Pro, but the actual product is 31.7 mm, which is way too long to fit the printer.When I discovered that the length was wrong, I took pictures to post with my review (pictures 1, 2 and 3), and intended on just returning it. Then I noticed that the section of the titanium shaft seemed to be too long compared to the original, so on a whim, I pushed it together between my index finger and thumb (which was NOT much force) and it slipped down to the correct length of 27.5 mm. Great! (see picture 4). But then there was so much slippage between the top and bottom halves I could freely spin it freely with just my fingers, so there is no easy way to install it and have it not slip.After that I could pull the two halves apart with my fingers (see picture 5). Again - no tools of any kind used, just the fingers or a 60 year old man!! I might have been able to install it, but I am pretty sure that I would have an incredible mess, with molten PLA and PETG oozing between the two haves if I try to use it (which is one of the complaints I think I have seen on this item) so I am not willing to risk gumming up and ruining the hot end trying to use this inferior product.I am going to return this and try to find a better made part.Absolute junk!!

This did work pretty well. I am having to tweak my profiles a little, and print just a bit hotter, but over all it is working well. Much better then the ptfe lined heat brake in my Sovol SV01. Just make sure you install it properly. It does not screw all the way in to the heat block, Only the threaded part, Make sure that the heat block and nozzle mounts properly. you might have to tweak how far you thread it in.

I have a CR-10 v3 and would clog after every 3rd spool so. I would find that my boden tube was pretty much melted at the end, so heat creep was probably the cause. This in addition so having better thermal properties is also not as deep so the end of the tube is further from the heat. I have had no issues since the install and have printed about 5 spools.

I was worried after reading the other reviews that the copper was going to separate from the titanium, but I tightened it as finger tight as I could and it didn’t break. Turned on the printer, did a test print and it worked amazing. Nice upgrade.

Tried to replace stock heatbreak on Tevo Tornado. Had a leak (which I blame myself for, not this). When trying to remove from heat block the copper part just spun around the titanium inner tube. This is a press-fit assembly. On the Tevo the heat block is suspended by only the heatbreak. I'm concerned that with this two-part assembly only being a press-fit and not mechanically fastened that the inner part may move and mess up Z-offset.

Well made with good instructions. Installation was easy with a small screw driver and a pair of pliers.