POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating — Non-Porous Protective Barrier, 4 fl oz, Gloss Black, Pack of 6

I have two lally columns in my garage that sweat in warm, humid weather since they cool off at night then attract condensation as the warm moist air gets in the garage when the doors are open. Water + steel = rust. I epoxied my garage floor, and pretty soon had rust stains in the epoxy from the columns. Grrr. The columns are a good 60+ years old, so pretty pitted. I hit them with a wire brush, then realized 80 grit sandpaper was a lot faster on the curved surface, and took off a fair amount of rust. I ended up getting the surface smoother than I had thought which became apparent as I applied this product. The product itself is thinner than latex paint, but a little thicker than water, so you have to be careful about drips. It spreads very well. I used less than 1/2 a 1 pint can to do two coats on the two lally columns. There were a couple spots where it initially covered, but didn't adhere, sort of like how water won't adhere to oil spots. I just went over those spots, working it in, and eventually it covered and adhered. The instructions say minimum two coats and I agree, if only to make sure you get full coverage. I waited 3 hours before putting on the second coat. The first coat was a mix of slightly tacky to very tacky, so I probably could have left it another hour or so. Interestingly, I didn't want to go through two brushes, so I left the leftover product from the first coat in the paint bucket I was using, with the brush in the product/not exposed to air, and the whole thing sat while I waited for the first coat to dry. This is not how the manufacturer recommends you do it. The remaining product in the paint bucket had thickened slightly, and so went on a bit thicker, but it still went on and spread, but much thicker. For my purpose, thicker is probably OK. It seemed to adhere just fine. This stuff levels like a dream - even with the second coat being thick, each pass left brush marks which quickly leveled out to perfectly smooth. The resulting finish was perfectly semi-gloss (like a text book definition of semi-gloss) and very, very smooth. I thought I'd just get the rust covered, and be stuck with the pitting of the old columns, but between the sanding and the superior leveling, the columns look amazing. Much better than I expected. For clean up, I found I could wipe up drops off the epoxy floor if I got to them quickly, and it all came up. I did get a drop on my face, looked like a Cindy Crawford mole, was probably on for 20 mins until my wife passed by and pointed it out. Aggressive scraping with a nail and soapy water took it off with some resulting abrasion of the skin but not bad. I did wear gloves as I painted. This is now my go-to coating for metal products with the potential to rust.

POR 15 never disappoints, goes on fairly smooth, protects better than most coatings, very strong finish and good appearance. Anything I want to protect this is my go to

While I needed to deal with some serious "rust remediation" issues with the under-body and frame of my '02 Dakota (after I neglected it through a couple of Northeastern winters), my initial use for POR-15 was the perpetually rusting brake calipers and drums: None of the paint products I had previously used held up for more than 6 to 9 months before discoloration and rusting set in again - even when applied to new (and clean) parts. The only prep I did was to use a hand-held wire brush to remove loose scale / dirt, and degreased with aerosol brake parts cleaner. For my purposes, sponge brush applicators have generally been best when used with a "dabbing" motion on rough-castings to provide uniform coverage and penetration. As has been noted by others: You may be pleasantly surprised by the coverage you can achieve. I was able to apply a single coat to both calipers / support brackets, both drums / backing plates, and the lower control arms with a single 4 oz. can. I used about 6 sponge brushes (2 inch) to do this, so I suggest buying them in bulk. I initially purchased the 6-pack of 4 oz. cans due to concerns about shelf-life for the larger quantities, but learned from experience that the iron oxide acts as a catalyst for POR-15, so applying it straight from a can gradually introduces small amounts of rust to the remaining material, causing it to thicken over the course of a few days use. This may also be a reason for limited shelf-life issues, so you should dispense POR-15 to another container for a small job, or a for larger task performed over a period of time. What truly impressed me was durability: I had removed the brake drums and applied the POR-15, allowing 24 hours for it to "cure". In the meantime, I decided to replace the brake shoes. Once cured, the POR-15 had a uniform gloss black appearance, although I could detect a faint reddish hue in bright sunlight. This was fine with me, as it was only a single coat, and I was curious as to how it would hold up over time. I reinstalled the drums, and then had some issues with excessive drag while adjusting the new shoes. When I tried to remove the drum to check my installation, it didn't budge, so I used a hammer around the rim to assist - and then realized that wasn't a very bright idea with any painted surface - but the POR-15 simply conformed to the obvious dings, and refused to come off even when I tried scuffing the dings with a wire brush. From experience: The only "problems" I have had have been prep-related - all surfaces to be treated need to be THOROUGHLY degreased, and all loose material must be removed. Use good portable lighting if needed. Be especially observant to remove rust "blisters" that form on areas like frame rails - using a cupped twisted strand wire brush on a grinder will frequently only "polish" the blisters without removing them, and rust will start to show again at those spots within a few months. The better tool to use is an air-powered needle scaler that will break the blisters. I've seen that with areas that were properly cleaned and prepped the POR-15 even resists passes with the scaler or powered brush. At this point, after 6 months and multiple pressure washes, the POR-15 treated brake parts still have a fresh appearance, with no rust returning. I have only a few remaining areas under the truck to treat, and I still have a can left from the 6 pack. I won't hesitate to reorder more if needed, and highly recommend it, along with the POR Patch, as effective solutions for persistent rust problems.

Have used POR15 for the past year and painted on some rust areas that were developing. Did my rear and front bumper where the paint was starting to fade and starting to show some rust as well. What I like about POR, you can brush this on and it levels out like as if you sprayed it on .... Even though it's a bit pricy for a large project ... I have to say its worth the price on overall looks and finish as well as rust protection. Great protective product for those in salt areas. Helps protect your side panels that are starting to develop rust areas... Got to clean really good the rust area then use acetone to remove any oils, dust or rust particles. Then brush on POR .. you'll save your metal on your truck or car easy... and can paint over it with color match paint yet having rust protection for a very very long time.. I highly recommend buying POR-15

A bit pricey but great product! Wear gloves or you will have this black tar like paint on your hands for weeks! No joke, nothing removes it… I tried everything! Drum fast, adheres exceptionally well! Shinny. I thought it would be mat black.

This is probably the best paint for rusted things. I have tried others and this thing is though, very though. I made a mistake once and tried to scrape it off that was not fun. This is the first product that I can say that works and is the first product that does not have tannin whis I sware by. So get this and u will not regret it but it will take a couple of coats to get it right. Just figured it our they now have different colors which is great for my ww2 american fire extinguisher nguisher re build nice red.

Please READ!!! Save yourself and UNDERSTAND!!! This product is AMAZING!!! First off painting anything is all about PREP work! Everything must sanded/scuffed, cleaned, degreased, washed off with water, dry, decent weather conditions if your outside, your work should be taped off, covered in plastic or newspaper and follow the directions on the cans! My experience with these products…ALL 5 star!! The cleaner/degreaser ***** The cleaner isn’t some harsh chemicals that burns your hands! It doesn’t smell and works amazing! Get a spray bottle and light scrub brush and scrub your work area. Dilute it with water 4:1. The metal prep/rust inhibitor ***** If your work piece has rust USE THIS! After sanding/cleaning the area and washing it off use this. It will take light rust (that maybe you couldn’t sand all of it away) and chemically breakdown the “rust” properties turning it back into its original metal state. Which then is a paintable clean surface. Listen Peoples, rust is like a cancer, ither cut it out, put in replacement metal or use this, and FOLLOW directions!!! It works!!! Read the DIRECTIONS!! The Por-15 paint*****The BEST PAINT!!! This paint is some serious stuff! It gets rock hard! KEEP THE CAN AND LID PERFECTLY CLEAN, the lid will seal itself shut if there’s ANY PAINT ON THE RIM!!! (That’s why they sell 6packs of small cans) and don’t paint outta the can, poor into something else. Stir the cans!!!! There’s 3/8inch chemicals at the bottom of the can of you don’t stir you’ll hit the bottom and be like”ohhhh what’s this”, oppps!!!! This paint will harden like steel it’s AMAZING STUFF!!! It’s like epoxy, but thinner.(the longer the can is exposed to the air/open the thicker it gets fast!!) When you use this paint you gotta be quick, in a rhythm and can’t stop. At this point everything should be ready for paint. If your using the topcoat paint as well, the topcoat goes on BEST RATE after this drys to “finger drag”. Meaning when you touch the painted surface it doesn’t stick to your finger, and you can drag your finger over it without removing any paint. Once at this point topcoat it RATE AWAY! Don’t wait because you’ll have to sand it, the topcoat adheres BEST when the por-15 paint is finger drag. The topcoat fills in all the imperfections the paint missed. BE heavy, don’t stretch these paints out, (small roller works the best) The topcoat smooths everything to a beautiful finish. THE PAINT AND TOPCOAT ARE NOT THE SAME!!!! They are totally different!!!!!! If you use the topcoat only that’s fine I guess but it’s no WAY near protected unless you use the Por-15 paint then topcoat. The paint hardens like steel, the topcoat does not harden the same way!!!! They are totally different!!! Yes it dries, but it’s just different. It says DTM on the can(directly to metal) and I’m sure you can only use the topcoat but if you want SERIOUS protection USE THE PAINT and TOPCOAT. If your only using one of them I would choose the paint over the topcoat. I restored a truck frame using these products. It’s very time consuming, and prep work!!! But WOW IT WORKED FLAWLESSLY AND WAS WORTH THE TIME!!! If you buy a can and paint over a completely rusted out item without prepping it, don’t expect a miracle. That paint hardens so hard the metal will probably dissolve and the POR paint will be holding it together it’s that strong lol. The people reading this will understand… Por-15 actually surprised me!!! I always used Rust oleum, which is good stuff but I’m a POR believer!!! There stuff is pro!!! I didn’t get a chance to use the primer, but again the key is after painting the rust protection paint, finger drag and topcoat heavy rate away and it’s smooth like butter…YOU DONT HAVE TO SPRAY IT, if you do my research says get POR15 solvent!!! CHEERS! good luck!!!

• Total Rust Permanent Seal: It chemically bonds directly to rusted metal, completely sealing it off from moisture and oxygen to stop rust permanently in its tracks. • Rock-Hard Coating: Dries to an incredibly tough, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, even when exposed to harsh under-vehicle road debris. • Excellent Fluid Self-Leveling: Whether brushed or sprayed on, the formula flows out beautifully to form a uniform, glass-smooth protective layer.

Very surprising product. 10/10 when applied with a $2 dollar store roller.

My hubby bought this product for his boat and car. You can paint anything and it stops the rust. He thoroughly recommended this product.

If you want permanent rust proofing then this is the only product out there worth buying, It sets like porcelain and rust will not come back. I have restored a vintage Ferrari with this stuff, a fiat 500 and even coated my old cast drain pipes with it. Use metal prep solution first from por15 before you use this and take care not to get it on your skin as thinners or paint stripper will not remove it and it goes a very long way. I can definitely vouch for this product and I live in Scotland near the se where it rains most of the time. I wouldn't use anything else as rust proofing goes as this is the best there is.

This paint is amazing for vehicle under body painting, after rust removal. This little tin goes a very long way. Just try not to get it on your skin as it takes a very long time to remove. I’ve now bought 2 tins and will be buying a 3rd in the spring. I also used it to paint my iron drive gates, easy to apply and they look great. I think this paint will last for years on them.

this provided the best most solid deep rust fix i have ever used. It is very important to follow instructions very carefully but if you do that it works perfectly. I used my first one 5 years ago and the fix is still perfectly solid. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS to the letter