POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating, Stop Rust and Corrosion Permanently, Anti-rust, Non-porous Protective Barrier, 32 Fluid Ounces, Semi-gloss Black

Please READ!!! Save yourself and UNDERSTAND!!! This product is AMAZING!!! First off painting anything is all about PREP work! Everything must sanded/scuffed, cleaned, degreased, washed off with water, dry, decent weather conditions if your outside, your work should be taped off, covered in plastic or newspaper and follow the directions on the cans!My experience with these products…ALL 5 star!!The cleaner/degreaser *****The cleaner isn’t some harsh chemicals that burns your hands! It doesn’t smell and works amazing! Get a spray bottle and light scrub brush and scrub your work area. Dilute it with water 4:1.The metal prep/rust inhibitor *****If your work piece has rust USE THIS! After sanding/cleaning the area and washing it off use this. It will take light rust (that maybe you couldn’t sand all of it away) and chemically breakdown the “rust” properties turning it back into its original metal state. Which then is a paintable clean surface. Listen Peoples, rust is like a cancer, ither cut it out, put in replacement metal or use this, and FOLLOW directions!!! It works!!! Read the DIRECTIONS!!The Por-15 paint*****The BEST PAINT!!!This paint is some serious stuff! It gets rock hard! KEEP THE CAN AND LID PERFECTLY CLEAN, the lid will seal itself shut if there’s ANY PAINT ON THE RIM!!! (That’s why they sell 6packs of small cans) and don’t paint outta the can, poor into something else. Stir the cans!!!! There’s 3/8inch chemicals at the bottom of the can of you don’t stir you’ll hit the bottom and be like”ohhhh what’s this”, oppps!!!! This paint will harden like steel it’s AMAZING STUFF!!! It’s like epoxy, but thinner.(the longer the can is exposed to the air/open the thicker it gets fast!!) When you use this paint you gotta be quick, in a rhythm and can’t stop. At this point everything should be ready for paint. If your using the topcoat paint as well, the topcoat goes on BEST RATE after this drys to “finger drag”. Meaning when you touch the painted surface it doesn’t stick to your finger, and you can drag your finger over it without removing any paint. Once at this point topcoat it RATE AWAY! Don’t wait because you’ll have to sand it, the topcoat adheres BEST when the por-15 paint is finger drag. The topcoat fills in all the imperfections the paint missed. BE heavy, don’t stretch these paints out, (small roller works the best) The topcoat smooths everything to a beautiful finish. THE PAINT AND TOPCOAT ARE NOT THE SAME!!!! They are totally different!!!!!! If you use the topcoat only that’s fine I guess but it’s no WAY near protected unless you use the Por-15 paint then topcoat. The paint hardens like steel, the topcoat does not harden the same way!!!! They are totally different!!! Yes it dries, but it’s just different. It says DTM on the can(directly to metal) and I’m sure you can only use the topcoat but if you want SERIOUS protection USE THE PAINT and TOPCOAT. If your only using one of them I would choose the paint over the topcoat.I restored a truck frame using these products. It’s very time consuming, and prep work!!! But WOW IT WORKED FLAWLESSLY AND WAS WORTH THE TIME!!! If you buy a can and paint over a completely rusted out item without prepping it, don’t expect a miracle. That paint hardens so hard the metal will probably dissolve and the POR paint will be holding it together it’s that strong lol. The people reading this will understand…Por-15 actually surprised me!!! I always usedRust oleum, which is good stuff but I’m a POR believer!!! There stuff is pro!!! I didn’t get a chance to use the primer, but again the key is after painting the rust protection paint, finger drag and topcoat heavy rate away and it’s smooth like butter…YOU DONT HAVE TO SPRAY IT, if you do my research says get POR15 solvent!!! CHEERS! good luck!!!

Product performs great in rusted metal to stop the rust

I have two lally columns in my garage that sweat in warm, humid weather since they cool off at night then attract condensation as the warm moist air gets in the garage when the doors are open. Water + steel = rust. I epoxied my garage floor, and pretty soon had rust stains in the epoxy from the columns. Grrr. The columns are a good 60+ years old, so pretty pitted.I hit them with a wire brush, then realized 80 grit sandpaper was a lot faster on the curved surface, and took off a fair amount of rust. I ended up getting the surface smoother than I had thought which became apparent as I applied this product. The product itself is thinner than latex paint, but a little thicker than water, so you have to be careful about drips. It spreads very well. I used less than 1/2 a 1 pint can to do two coats on the two lally columns. There were a couple spots where it initially covered, but didn't adhere, sort of like how water won't adhere to oil spots. I just went over those spots, working it in, and eventually it covered and adhered.The instructions say minimum two coats and I agree, if only to make sure you get full coverage. I waited 3 hours before putting on the second coat. The first coat was a mix of slightly tacky to very tacky, so I probably could have left it another hour or so. Interestingly, I didn't want to go through two brushes, so I left the leftover product from the first coat in the paint bucket I was using, with the brush in the product/not exposed to air, and the whole thing sat while I waited for the first coat to dry. This is not how the manufacturer recommends you do it. The remaining product in the paint bucket had thickened slightly, and so went on a bit thicker, but it still went on and spread, but much thicker. For my purpose, thicker is probably OK. It seemed to adhere just fine.This stuff levels like a dream - even with the second coat being thick, each pass left brush marks which quickly leveled out to perfectly smooth. The resulting finish was perfectly semi-gloss (like a text book definition of semi-gloss) and very, very smooth. I thought I'd just get the rust covered, and be stuck with the pitting of the old columns, but between the sanding and the superior leveling, the columns look amazing. Much better than I expected.For clean up, I found I could wipe up drops off the epoxy floor if I got to them quickly, and it all came up. I did get a drop on my face, looked like a Cindy Crawford mole, was probably on for 20 mins until my wife passed by and pointed it out. Aggressive scraping with a nail and soapy water took it off with some resulting abrasion of the skin but not bad. I did wear gloves as I painted.This is now my go-to coating for metal products with the potential to rust.

Great stuff! Must use it all once opened. Prep is key!

Great for brushing on the frame. I wouldn’t recommend spraying it.