Suspension Kit with Slider Track for Zero Turn Lawn Mower Tractor Forklift, Compatible with Most Aftermarket Seats - Same Day Shipping

100% Direct Bolt on to SCAG Cheetah II with no modifications needed. The build quality seems fantastic, and I like the fact that it uses a shock strut and not a spring. I'm not quite sure what the "weld failure" is that several mention in their reviews. The one I received uses all lock nuts and bolts with no welded nuts. Overall it took me about 1.5 hours to install. It will absolutely raise the seat up significantly but the cushioning is very plush and helps A LOT! I am not able to comment on long-term reliability yet, but if it fails prematurely I will definitely update my review. I was able to make adjustments and so we would not bottom out under normal riding. We have a very very very bumpy yard and this is truly game changing.

Reviewed many options to address my aching lower back after any use of my ZTR mower - (i.e. hire a lawn service - but I enjoy cutting my lawn, purchase a new mower with an air-ride suspension seat, replace seat with suspension seat, take pain killers, etc.). After much research and learning that most suspension seats actually have a suspension unit like this one at the base of the seat and since my current seat is in excellent condition, I decided to try this option rather than spend many time more for the seat/suspension unit combo. When the suspension kit arrived, I immediately unboxed it and read the instructions several times to became familiar with how the unit functions and how it is to be installed. I also viewed videos and read reviews found on Amazon. I also sent a message to the seller (TICSEA) for any additional installation information. They were gracious and promptly sent additional installation information that was more detailed that those that came with the kit. Steps I followed were as follows: Note: While the components have pre-drilled holes for easy installation for certain lawn mowers, for my Toro Timecutter MX5050 74770, none of the holes matched up. If this is your case, worry not, pop a cold beer and fear not: 1) Remove current seat from your lawn mower. Also, layout all the hardware components included with the suspension kit and group the items together (i.e. short 5/16" bolts from medium and long 5/16" bolts, washers, spacers, nuts and adjustment knob and spring clip. note: This is the first time any vendor has included one count extra of everything sent in case one is damaged or goes missing! 2) Measure the mowers seat mounting base plate. For my Toro, it was 13-1/2" X 19". I then used the packing box to cut out a piece of the same dimensions (had to tape two pieces together). This will later be used to make a template for drilling the required holes into the seat mounting base plate. 3) I turned the suspension kit upside down and began mounting the sliders to the appropriate mating surface. Note: There are three sets of holes for each slider that can be used. I had to play around with placement to finally get the optimum width that would fit my 13-1/2" wide seat mounting base plate and yet still provide a safe margin on either side of the bolt (I did not want it too close to the edge nor did I want it too close to a preexisting slot in the seat mounting base plate). To get the fit I wanted, I had to set one slider to the middle position and the other slider to the inner-most position that gave me a 12" center-to-center hole measurement. With this information, I was able to mark holes on the cardboard template: (13-1/2" - 12" = 1-1/2"). The 1-1/2" was divided by 2 to give me 6/8" (the distance each hole-center will need to be from the edge. The distance length-wise between the holes (center-to-center) was 11". So 19" - 11" = 8". Taking 8" and dividing by two gave me the distance from each end for the hole placement. So in summary, I took the 13-1/2" X 19" cardboard rectangle and made holes along the length that were 4 inches from each end and 5/8" from the outer edge. I took a single hole punch and punched the four holes as measured. When this was laid on the seat mounting plate of the mower, I used a sharpee and marked the holes using my cardboard template. Once I saw where the holes should go, I put pieces of masking tape over each hole and remarked them using the template. I removed the template and carefully drilled my holes. Note: The tape helps to keep the drill bit from "skating" when drilling precision holes. I used a 5/16" bit and saved the 3/4" bit that came with the hardware for enlarging any of the holes it slightly off during installation of the suspension kit. 4) I also made a template for the suspension kit's seat plate that must be removed via the four screws (1/2" hex-head). I took a sheet of clear, thin, plastic film and cut it to the dimensions of the suspension mounting plate. I then placed the plastic film onto the bottom of my lawn mower's seat to find out where the bolt holes need to be and marked them with my shapree. I used the plastic film with the bolt holes marked as a template to mark where the holes will need to be drilled in the suspension kit seat mounting plate. I carefully marked and drilled the required holes. Go ahead and mount the suspension kit's seat plate to the bottom of you mower's seat and lay to the side. 5) I mount the suspension kit to my mower's seat mounting base plate and all holes lined up perfectly. I tightened down the screws without incident. 6) My Toro seat mounting base plate allows you to rotate it upward from the rear. I rotated it upward with the suspension kit attached (without seat at this time), to figure out how I wanted to thread the wire that supplies power to the seat cutoff switch (many short it and move on - not recommended for safety reasons). I had to make a 8" extension to go with the one the vendor supplies for this purpose. Go ahead and route it before installing the seat and rotate the seat mounting plate with the suspension kit back into the down position. 7) Gently place the seat w/mounting plate on the edge of the top of the suspension kit where it will be lined up and mounted. However, before you line everything up, go ahead and plug in your power supply to the bottom of the seat (it should have a fairly large cutout for this purpose). Once plugged up, carefully line it up, put your four screws in and ENJOY your new suspension seat!!! Note: Do not forget to install you adjustment knob and the spring clip. I adjusted my seat such that when sitting on it, the travel is in the middle of the travel. Yesterday when mowing my yard it was unbelievable, even going over some tree roots was smooth. So far I am very impressed with this seat and only hope that it maintains its efficiency in absorbing harsh bumps and turns your lawn mower experience into a ride akin to your uncle's '64 Lincoln. Note: Due to the seat sitting somewhat higher due to the suspension kit and my athletic thighs, I did order some lap bar extenders to raise the bars for that last ounce of added comfort. So far my I am extremely pleased with this suspension system and can attest - my back did not hurt after three hours of cutting my yard. That says it all! Good luck...

This was not actually for my JD Z665 but I fabricated some brackets and made it work. It defiantly worth it, it rides so much better.

I have a 2008 XMark Quest, Zero-Turn lawnmower and I'm 82 years old with a very bad back. I don't know why I took so long to buy a product like this? It arrived before noon package well, in great condition and by 2:00 I had it installed. I guess for $135.00 at Amazon I was a little skeptical about the quality. I've worked with metal all my life and this is a heavy duty quality product. It bolted right up on my machine. Everything I needed was in the box. I'm 205 lbs., I adjusted seat to about half way and it's perfect. My neighbor also has had back surgery and we've been taking about doing something about a better ride. I drove my mower over to his place to show off my new setup. He had decided to solve his problem by buying a new lawnmower. The only thing I can tell that's different in his new ride over mine is over $8,000.00 dollars. Of course a new mower would be great but if you are like me and just settle for the seat upgrade, think about how much beer you can buy for $8,000.00 dollars. It just takes a little horse since & elbow grease to install. The instructions are badly done and the video is a Chinese guy trying to speak english. So I ended up finding one diagram that shows the entire system, bolts,nuts,washers with the seat. Because you have to put it together upside-down I just inverted the picture to see how everything went together. Good luck, it's worth the effort.

Ryobi ZR3 42 inch 80 Volt Zero Turn Mower – Purchased May 2026 Home Depot (RY80HPRM04K). After looking at several brands of seats I went with the TICSEA with the shock absorber and rails sold on Amazon ASIN: B0B3R3QV21 . I did have a few challenges on this project, but was able to overcome them. First the seat kit is heavy and the knob shaft had poked a hole in the side of the mfg box and Amazon had placed it in another larger box for shipping. The install is divided into three steps for the Ryobi ZR3. I took out the four side bolts holding the Top plate and placed it aside. Then removed the four bolts holding the old seat to the mower pan plate and set it aside. Moving to the bottom plate of the Kit is where the seat rails are placed – here I made a mistake, since the bottom was now upside down, I placed the rails on backwards – best to place the seat "right side up" and then match the rails underneath – adjustment handle on the left side “outside” (key switch side of mower), facing UP, not in the center of the seat as the rails on the ZR3 are placed. Spacers, Spacers have to be placed correctly on bottom and top plates. On the rails there are two 1/8th spacers as shown in the diagram. The front holes lined up width wise, but the length holes had to be drilled on the bottom plate of the seat kit. The included drill bit lasted for one hole – the other hole took me 4 bits to keep enlarging the hole by sizing up each bit. Then I tried a Step Bit which was also not easy, but I got there. I had a 3/8 electric drill and it was smoking. I used a auto magnet tool to clean up the metal shavings that fell inside the kit. Here I learned my lesson – drill press or a one half drill. My neighbor now came over to see what was going on – to my surprise he had a drill press. Saved me a trip Monday to the NAPA Auto Store which in my city has a machine shop. Big drill or a drill press. Next bolted the kit seat bottom to the mower pan – here again is a “spacer” but it is a “nut” screwed onto the bolt “before” fitting on the mower pan – (this tightens to hold the seat kit in place as once it is placed on the pan plate you cannot tighten the bolt as you cannot reach the bolt head, so it acts as a "stud") – then inserted or placed the seat kit onto the mower pan plate and tighten with “locking” nuts. So, the rails are mounted to the seat kit bottom and the seat kit is bolted to the mower pan. Next is the Top plate mounting – once again the front width holes were fine but the length holes in the rear were off – off to the drill press with a step bit. Then taking off the ZR3 old rails placing the ZR3 Seat onto the Top plate via bolts into the seat bottom with the ½ inch “spacers” on all four corners as shown in the diagram. Next is the Safety Switch “extension wire” included in the kit. I had to cut the 2 Pole Moler plug off both ends and use a size 18-22 X 1/4th spade disconnect connections (16 gauge connectors are to big). Be sure to purchase “insulated” female connectors – crimp two male connectors at the seat switch wire and plug into the “female connector side” of extension wire, use heat shrink tubing – tape is the least choice, but tape and plastic “loom” auto or computer covering over “each” plug in “connection” is another option – very important that the two wires at the spices both ends DO NOT Touch each other or the mower frame. Thread the wire out the rear of the Top plate – look for the “half moon shape” in the rear middle of seat frame – do not run the wire anywhere else. Next mount the Top plate (seat is attached) on the Seat Kit with the four bolts in the sides. Now add “insulated” female connectors to the other end of the Mower Safety Switch Wire Harness and plug in the male ends of the extension wire – heat shrink tubing or tape each wire separately and cover “each” (not together) with a 3 inch long loom covering (you can disconnect wires here if need be). My mistake was using UNinsulated female connectors here – the wires rubbed together and created a short – the mower started, cut, ran fine – the seat safety switch did not work when I stood up to test it. I was lucky it was at the end I could get to – the seat switch end meant taking the Top plate off. Other notes: the Ryobi seat kit installs their seat kit to the mower pan plate with no rails - then on the Top plate they install/mount the seat and rails as taken off before. So, you’re using the same ZR3 rails and adjustment handle. I used a Steering Arm Extension Kit Replacement for Hustler FasTrak, X-One, Super Z 2016 and Later Models to extend the arms up. The hole spacing on the ZR3 is one and a half inches. I did have to purchase next size down carriage bolts and lock nuts. Ryobi calls their extenders Height Adjustors which are square and fit inside the base of the arm. Also, TICSEA included two booklets – each has some different information with diagrams and worth a look. And all the hardware was there. In the photos you will also see where I added a boarding step and pole so I could get on and off the mower with my bum leg (knee and hip replacements). The mower has a 2X2 front hitch receiver – I ordered a VEVOR Hitch Step for 2 Inch Receiver, Universal Rear Bumper Guard Protector with 350 LBS Load Capacity, Model Number RS-8037, for $30 – which fit well on the first hole and clears the front wheels so I can mount and dismount from the front and not the side. Next was a boarding handle of some type – I went with a straight pole type, a Amazon Mount Assist Handle Kit Compatible with Bad Boy Mowers Orange, Replace OE for 088-3500-00. I located two holes which lined up with the handle plate – one had to be drilled wider with a step drill bit for about 2 seconds. There was a star bolt nearby, so I shimmed with washers the two bolt holes, as I had no bit (40 Torx). Overall the seat turned out fine (lot cheaper to), just mow and take the leaf blower to the mower before putting it in the garage. UPDATE 7/11/2026: I contacted TICSEA Support about the seat adjustment to get more detailed information. Support was great – fast replies and provided great information to my questions: Hello! Here are the instructions for using the adjustment knob on your seat: The knob is marked with “+” and “-” symbols. Turning the knob clockwise (toward the “+” symbol) increases resistance, making the seat firmer and providing stronger support; Turning the knob counterclockwise (toward the “-” symbol) reduces resistance, making the seat softer and more comfortable. You can “gradually” adjust the seat to the most comfortable position based on your weight and preferences. The adjustment knob locks automatically once it is turned to the correct position. This shock absorber has a maximum load capacity of 300 pounds. The adjustment range is about 0–37 full turns “from soft to firm”, depending on your weight. The knob will stop naturally at both ends, so you can't over-turn it.

Works great, easy install, very comfortable, no drilling perfect fit ,sets you a little higher in the seat

I have a new Bad Boy 60" zero turn, mows great but I have some rough spots in the pasture I mow with it and I'm too old to take that kind of a beating so I ordered this suspension seat. The first seat I order, 4 out of the 6 welded nuts on the seat base plate were broken free from their welds due to cold weld joints. I returned it and ordered a second one. The second seat came with 2 out of the 6 nuts with the welds broken free (see pics). When you have powder coat getting getting into the weld joint it obviously failed before it was even painted. Normally, I'd have sent that one back too, but I really wanted to get a suspension seat on my my outfit. I tapped the other bolts with a hammer, none of the other nuts popped off so I went ahead and welded the two nuts back on rather than return it (see pics). Instructions were kind of minimal, there is no designated route for the seat wiring, the jumpers look more like an afterthought. I used them, they work, but very concerned about chaffing or damage since they just route up through the seat base with lots of moving joints and pinch points. The installation of the seat base itself went well, all the holes lined up both on the mower seat base plate and the underside of the seat, no drilling was needed. I set the slider rails on the mower about 1/4" behind the safety decal (see pics). This allows the seat to go back about 1" from the engine and forward to the point it overhands the front edge of the seat area. If you flip the seat up, be sure to retract the seat all the way back or it will bind with the area below the front edge of the seat. Normally after an experience like this, I'd have given the seat base one star. After mowing with it, what a huge difference that seat base makes. I have the suspension set so the base only compresses about 1/4-1/2 inch when I'm just sitting on it, that leaves plenty of room for travel when I hit the rough spots. The suspension works excellent, it soaks up all the rough stuff and the damping is spot on. An added advantage to the seat is that you sit higher up so ergonomically standing up is much easier. I'm 6'-3" so standing up from the very low stock seat position always felt like I was getting up from a deep knee bend with my feet too far forward, the higher seat makes it feel much more like I'm standing up from a chair. The excellent performance of the suspension base outweighed my initial feeling of dissatisfaction with the unit construction. I hope they get their QA issues sorted out with their welded nuts, then the seat base would be about ideal.

Well worth the cost! Tools & difficulty: My 2024 Bad Boy MZ Magnum had a basic seat no sliders, no arm rests and could be repositioned 3" range forward or back with the stock slotted mounting pan. Cost of a factory seat suspension plate is $310+. Before ordering, I placed pieces of thick foam on the stock seat to judge the expected difference of ride height to the controls. I did not need to add extenders for the control arms and the control arms felt almost too close to my legs with the added seat height, but it's just a difference that I got used to after a few minutes mowing. I have a bit under 2 acres to mow and it is mostly "bunch grass" resulting in a quite bumpy mowing ride. I decided I needed to upgrade my seat and chose this suspension adapter based on several other seat options and reviews. Total Time to install: ? Probably 2 hours, I was interrupted at least 3 times. Instruction sheet could be better. I did not have to drill any holes and the main trick was to manage the weight while fitting the screws, washers and nuts into the mower seat base. I dropped washers a couple of times learning the technique. Dropped washers and nuts found odd places to hide and took some time to locate. Included hardware are hex-key round head screws, some flat washers and nylon lock nuts. Hex key and drill bit also included. I recommend placing a large rag or something under the mower seat pan to catch any hardware you might drop. With my current experience, I probably could do it again in under an hour. The seat really improves the ride experience greatly. It feels like you are floating along with the mower jerking around under you. An oddly disconnected but much more comfortable feeling from the previous driving experience. But I had almost no suspension seat experience before now. This kit adds around 25 lbs. weight to the mower but mine is over 600 lbs, stock so not much more than 4%