NinjaTek - 3DCH0117505 3DCH01117505 Cheetah TPU Filament, 1.75mm, TPE.5kg, Midnight (Black) (Pack of 1)

Printing with TPU seems to be a mixed bag, with it working well for some people and not so well for others. However, I followed the advice for printing this that I liked best and it printed great. Frankly, I was expecting a piece that was almost as hard as regular PLA with lots of printing difficulties, and I got the exact opposite.I have a Prusa MK3S with a full Bear frame. Here's what I did to get a successful print:1. I sliced using the Ultrafuse TPU-95A profile in Prusa's slicer.2. I printed at 0.20 (quality) layer height.3. The infill matters. I used 50% concentric infill to get flexibility, 50% cubic to get strength and 100% rectilinear infill where strength really mattered. There was a huge difference in the flexibility of the printed piece. The concentric infill was still pretty flexible, the cubic was not that compressable, and the 100% infill was rock solid.4. I printed on blue painter's tape. I found raising my first layer Z-height by 0.120 worked well for me. Make sure there is no gap between strips of blue painter's tape otherwise it shows up on the final print. Make sure there is no overlap or the first layer doesn't print right. It pretty much has to be perfect. My advice, but blue painter's tape as wide as you can so you can print on one strip.5. Losen the tension on the extruder gear 4 full turns.6. Turn off auto-load filament (Settings -> F. Autoload). Put the filament in and turn the extrude gear manually to load it. I didn't do a cold-pull before loading and it still loaded fine. If you use auto-load filament, it loads it way too fast and screws it up. To manually load it, go to Settings -> Move Axis -> Extruder.7. I only printed one part at a time, as I didn't want the extruder head to have to jump between pieces and potentially create strings between them. This stuff has the potential to ooze, so just be patient.8. Speaking of being patient, PLA prints about 8X faster than this stuff, so patience is a must.9. Once the part is finished printing, it comes right off the blue painters tape as easy as PLA.The 95A hardness is pretty much what I wanted. I can dial in the overall flexibility with the amount of and type of infill, which is great. I'm really loving this filament, it's just working great. I'm sure it helps that the design of the MK3S extruder makes it easier to print with flexible filaments, but I'll take it.

This is some really nice filament to print with

My PowerSpec i3 mini only needed a minor upgrade to print this TPU filament. Its a bit harder than most TPU, but that seems to be why it works. I just had to add a PLA printed part to close a gap between the Bowden tube and the drive. With this modification, I am getting excellent printing quality.

Using a Micro-Swiss direct drive on my Ender 3 Pro, this filament is no harder to print than PLA. Increase temp to 240C, turn off retraction and slow the hell down. Nice, flexible results.

Before purchasing, I was worried about bed adhesion and layer adhesion based on some comments and videos for the Filament. I slowed print speeds down about 20% for this filament and haven't had any problems printing using a Creality35 Ender-3. Objects printed with this filament are stiffer to compress than I was expecting, but that actually has allowed for stronger prints with less filament.

The media could not be loaded.  This is a very strong material easy to print at horizontal base but when it comes to vertical it doesn't give a good printing quality. i used 230 -245 nozzle, bed at 60-80 speed at 20mm/s to 40mms in different tries. i used another Cheaper brand (Overture) and i got a very good Print. the Ninjatek cheetah comes packaged w/o plastic protector. Does anyone getting good quality form this material? please give me some recommendations

great quality