EaseLife 5FT Bypass Double Sliding Barn Door Hardware Kit

funny they send plugs....Always use a nice thick and sturdy board to mount the track to. I used 1.25" ash hardwood. Mount the hardware to the board and then mount the board to the wall.

Built a sliding bard door console and this hardware was just what I needed. It was high quality and reasonably priced. The delivery was as promised.

I shopped around for the right hardware, as I was working with a tight space. Dimensions needed to be spot on. I decided to go with the single track as it’s a much cleaner/slim look. The hardware is top quality and looks super high end. Installation tips (single track only) - Move the hangers as far to the each door edge as you can, if you are looking to maximize space when opening each door. - The door thickness I had was approx 1.5 inches. When you install the hanger bolts you may need to cut them to length. I purchased a cheap hand grinder to cut them, you could also use a hacksaw (which is a bit safer). You will know if you need to cut the bolts as the other door will hit the bolt. - I used a hand grinder to cut the the steel roller bar. Again you could use a hacksaw. - This tip should help out quite a bit. When I considered the weight of the doors, I felt strongly that the lag bolts supplied were not sufficient to hold up the doors ... safely. I would be worried about the lag bolts coming loose and at least causing a poor movement, at worst the doors falling off the rail and causing a lot of damage. I decided to add a header board in the front and in the behind the wall. So I had 10 inch bolts connecting through the wall to really hold the doors and rail system up, and boy did it feel solid. Tools I used: Hand grinder with cutting wheel 5/16 all threaded bar, cut at 10 inch lengths for all five holding positions. Spring washers and large 1.5 inch washers to secure bolts in place, for the 10 inch bolts Rip saw for cutting header boards Corse 2 inch screws to install header boards to drywall. Making sure you hit the studs. Tip, if you have a wall where you do not have enough studs to work with, predrill the holes and use anchor drywall supports. Hope all this helps. It took me a good two days, to install correctly.

I have to say this is a great choice for barn door hardware. It's inexpensive compared to many others. It's super strong; my door easily weighs 90# and this hardware handles it with ease. The finish (brushed nickel) is very smooth and attractive. It rolls extremely smoothy, with practically no effort at all. This is a winner. As others have said, you will likely need to install a header board (2x4) which you can screw into your studs. And then you can screw the track into the 2x4. The pre-drilled holes in the track may or may not line up with your studs. Can't go wrong with this one.

I used the stainless barn door track and matching stainless barn door handle for a door I built on my linen closet. It turned out great, the quality was excellent, the instructions could be a bit clearer, but with a little figuring, one can work it out.