EVALD Heavy Duty Floating Shelf Bracket | 4-Inch Floating Mantel Mount, Blind Shelf Supports, and Anchors | Floating Shelf Hardware for Home and Office Decor | Fireplace Mantel Brackets (4 Pack)

Good instructions. The design which allows precise placement over wood studs was important for hanging a long, heavy oak shelf securely. As the item description states, drywall mounting could be done, but in this case, I opted for stud placement. I used three brackets, kept three for a future project. Even loaded, the three will hold up 4-6 times the weight of the shelf and anything we might ever want to place on it. I highly recommend the associated jig and drill bit set sold by this company, especially for larger shelves.

Great product.

Are they the easiest? No. Are they idiot-proof? No. Are they strong and able to handle plenty of weight? Yes they are! You need some basic measuring and layout skills along with being able to use a router and drill. Having a very good stud finder is a must unless you have backer boards behind the sheetrock. The shelves I built were made from 1 1/2" Hevea butcher block so I needed stout brackets. One shelf will also hold a pro-built gaming rig computer (25 lbs). I'm happy with the Evald HD bracket kit and plan to use it again in other rooms.

I SO wish this would have worked as well as I saw on YouTube. I followed the tutorial exactly and even got a 12" bit instead of 8" (it wasn't long enough once you calculatein the recessed bracket). The holes were so tight that they refused to give in to the shelf sliding on. I initially used 2 brackets for a very heavy 5' beam floating shelf. The brackets may hold the weight, but I quickly learned that the screws would not, even with the anchors. I was installing half of the bracket into lath and plaster and half into stud. Because the bracket can move vertically once mounted, I knocked one loose during the installation of the beam. Already having the beam drilled out, I left that loose bracket in place (something I would regret later). I added two more brackets to the wall, this time only in plaster, and drilled two more holes. When I set the shelf on top of the brackets to mark the hole spaces, the brackets sagged. All 4 of them. I continued to drill the holes and chisel the recessed bracket space and then install. Halfway through, the shelf just stopped. My only guess is that the drilled holes weren't straight enough and they refused to give. Using a heavy hammer, I forced the shelf onto the brackets. What I was left with were 2 brackets jammed through the wall (ironically one of them was in a stud) and two just indented into the wall. The shelf sagged about 2 inches. What I ended up doing was buying 2 new external steel mounts and reinforcing the shelf, disappointed that I don't have the "floating" effect I wanted. My thoughts...these brackets are not for beginners and I'm not a beginner, just stubborn. Open the drill holes a little bit more than 1/2" for a smoother installation. Use a 12" bit and mark it at 9" so you don't go too far in. Take out all of the wood from the holes. And most importantly, don't buy these based on the weight load they can carry. Make sure your wall can handle it too. In my opinion, drywall isn't strong enough for these large of brackets and that heavy of a beam (maybe 40lbs). Only install into studs or reinforce behind the wall during construction.

We used these brackets to hold up a reclaimed wood mantle which weighed about 150+ pounds. We ended up using all 4. They worked great and were very sturdy. The package indicates each bracket holds "up to" 100 pounds. All needed hardware is included and we anchored each into a stud.

Easy to install. Recommend to find studs for maximum hold. Sheetroch grommets will not sustain 150 lbs.

I needed to install some floating shelves in a kitchen and there would only be two 2x4's behind each shelf. So I needed something that would really give me a good way to attach the brackets to the 2x4 studs. These were the only ones I found that allowed two screws to go directly into the stud. They seem very sturdy and well constructed - the post seems perfectly perpendicular to the base, as you would like. Fit and finish is top notch.My shelves were 10" deep, which is as deep as I would go - if I could have talked the owner of the kitchen into 8 or 9" I would have been a little happier.I don't think these are all that easy for a DIY install, you really need a drill press, long 1/2" wood bits and either a table saw or router to slot the back of the shelf. If you can't get the holes exactly straight through the shelf, I can imagine that it will be a bear to get the shelf on. And you are working with thick wood in the first place.I made 1 3/4" thick walnut shelves, which worked out fine. Since the bracket is 1.5" tall, that left only a 1/8" lip of wood to cover the bracket on the top and bottom. The two lips are kind of fragile on the exposed shelf end (which was concealed in this install). If I were to do it again I probably would just use a forstner bit and mill only where the bracket is - more work than a simple dado on the table saw - but less fragile.Measure the spacing between the brackets on the wall, then measure out at the ends. If they don't match, put some washers between the bracket and the wall board to get them to line up. Same with level in the other direction. I thought it would be easy to nudge them 3/16" closer, but in the end I needed a clamp to get the install to work.I suppose the included screws and anchors might be OK for narrow shelves, if there were more than 2 brackets per shelf or some such purpose. But I wouldn't recommend that you use them - I saved them for future unrelated jobs. Floating shelves supported just by drywall anchors? Doesn't sound too safe to me. I used #10 Spax screws which I trust far more. I used 2 1/2" long screws since in this case it was a 1" thick plaster wall so I ended up with a full 1 1/4" of screw in the wood itself.For small (two brackets) shelves on finished walls, these are far and away the best solution I saw. I will definitely use them again!!