OXPHO-Blue Creme Gun Blue 4OZ

This definitely yielded both better darkening of steel and ease of use than the liquid BC branded cold blue that I have used in the past.Application is more controllable and cleanup is easier as well.Not a perfect match for most hot blued items, but very close.

I have restored dozens of guns. This is the best hands down. You need to get the metal bare first. 4 or 5 applications works great.

50 year gunsmith here. This is by far, the best “cold” blue I’ve ever used. Applied correctly it rivals standard hot tank bluing. The big secret is use acetone or alcohol to clean the surface after polishing. Warm the surface with a blow dryer on high or low on a heat gun, just warm enough to be hard to hold. Apply liberally, let sit for a couple of minutes and wipe off. It takes five to six applications to develope a dark blue. The final coat use a saturated 0000 steel wool and run it very lightly over the surface to blend. Oil and prepare to be amazed!

This bluing is OK but it's not like factory bluing, I like the fact that it's a jell it makes it easier to use.

Even though this is branded Brownells it is listed as a Generic product. Check the difference in the labels. I purchased both the creme and regular types of Oxpho. The creme type does the best job. I treated a receiver and barrel of a 65 year old firearm that was covered in a great deal of surface rust. The results were amazing. Two people who saw the results thought it had been hot blued. The creme took 3 applications to achieve the desired results.

I've tried various bluing solutions, but this one takes the cake. The cream formula is so easy to apply and control, making it perfect for both large projects and small touch-ups. I was amazed at how quickly and evenly the blue developed, and the final finish is absolutely professional-grade. It's durable, rust-resistant, and looks fantastic.

Works well for me for protecting tooling I've made. I'm not interested in matching any particular gun, just making a surface to hold some oil and prevent rusting. Sometimes it comes out a little on the brown side, sometimes more black. I don't know if this is a property of the steel or surface contamination.I also use it for making brushed steel label signs with sheet metal by coating the metal with a layer of black paint, laser engraving the paint away where I want black, and then using this product to darken the metal through that mask. Very nice results, but… some of the paints I've tried leave a residue that greatly inhibits the darkening unless washed off and sometimes there isn't an obvious solvent cleaning the exposed area without taking off the masking. Rustoleum chalk board paint works well. Rustoleum peelable black works well, and if a simple design you can just cut the outlines and peel out the large areas which is much faster. I suspect most dark spray paints work, I just like how easily the lightly cured rustoleums wash off with acetone when I'm down bluing.

This is an outstanding cold blue product that gives professional results from touch upside to complete blueing and it alsoʻ works very well on other metallic items