Outdoor Power Tools 2000-20S 20-Inch 5-Blade Classic Push Reel Lawn Mower, Green

First time using a reel mower. I just moved to a home with a much smaller yard than I've had for the last 10 years. Went from riding a zero turn mowing about 5 acres to a quarter acre lot, so I didn't want to have to store my big mower with all the gas containers at my new home. I almost bought an electric mower, but I looked up the top rated mowers on Amazon and reel mowers popped up. Since I live in FL and the grass grows quickly and very thick here, I opted for the 7 blade reel mower. Most products I found were out of stock for 7 blade, but I was able to find this one. It was pretty easy to assemble except for the last step which requires you to put the handle on the posts for the mower itself. That part took a bit of strength on my part and I'm 6'2 and 225lbs. Might have been easier with a second person, but it's not impossible with one. My yard had got pretty thick as I have just moved in about two weeks ago and no one had mowed it in about a month. It had also just started raining for a few minutes before I got started. This little thing got the job done and I was pretty surprised. Like I said, the grass had got pretty thick, so some spots took more effort than others and I took the time to cross cut the yard like I had seen mentioned in previous reviews. The yard looked great and the areas that weren't as thick were very easy to push through. I'm confident that now that I have this and can mow on a regular basis before the yard is so thick, that this mower is exactly what I needed. It makes some noise as you turn the reel, but it's much more quite than anything with a motor. I'm also looking forward to the added exercise as I get out there and push this thing across the yard each week. I still need to invest in a weed trimmer.

After cutting my lawn with a gas-powered mower last summer, I wanted to simplify things. I really don't want to stress over spark plugs and oil and gasoline, and hoping that my engine will start when I pull the cord. All the maintenance. We already have a car for that. I wanted something I could understand, that worked well. This does the trick. I honestly look forward to cutting the lawn now. It's a fun experience. I like the 20-in width because you tend to overlap as you travel back and forth across your lawn anyway, so it's great that you don't have to do as many passes as you would with a narrower mower. I like not having to make sure I have enough gasoline to cut my lawn, especially as gas has increased in recent months. The only fuel I need is in my body. Our lawn is mostly level, yet this does give me a bit of good exercise, though nothing too extreme at all. What I lose in machine-propelled front-wheel drive I make up for in a healthier heart. I'll take it. This is much quieter than an electric or gas-powered mower, so I am able to cut grass at 7:00 a.m. before it gets very hot or the day gets busy, and not bother anyone. The first time I used it, my wife didn't even know I was outside her window cutting grass. I'd been reading up before my purchase, and I learned that a reel mower is better for your grass due to its cutting method, working much more like scissors rather than a rotating horizontal blade that tends to leave the tips of grass brown and leaves behind a trail of “hay” unless you use a bagger on your mower. With several blade height settings that are as easy as popping a little handle out of a notch and then back in around the wheel, it's also possible to cut the grass much shorter like golf course style than other styles of mowers, if that suits your needs. I share an unfenced lawn with my neighbors, so personally I use a higher blade height in order to match what they've cut already with their electric and gas mowers. Many people have said that you need to use a reel mower much more often than a gas-powered mower, but that hasn't been my experience. If I cut any sooner than weekly (~30 minutes), I find that there's very little that's ready to be cut. I'm guessing amount of rain and sunshine and grass type are factors in this, though. All in all, I'm really digging this retro mower lifestyle. Stress-free. Yes, please!

I recently moved to a rented house from an apartment and had to look into getting a mower again. I have always hated every lawn mower I've ever had, they require too much maintenance and are a pain to start, especially in the spring after sitting through the winter. They're noisy, smelly, get dirty, and my hands get all tingly from the vibration of holding the handle with the blades going. So, I wanted to try something different and wondered if they still made the old manual mowers, and found this one on Amazon. Assembly was easy, basically just screwing on the handle to the actual mower mechanism with some provided thumb-screws. There is also a wrench-like tool provided for adjusting the blades if they get out of alignment. The mower works great for certain types of grass and grass that isn't overgrown. You have to make sure your yard is clear of sticks and twigs before you mow, as even a tiny twig will get stuck in the blades and you'll have to pull it out. Also, ground squirrels are a problem where I live (Central California), and their little piles of dirt will be bad for the blades as well, meaning I have to flatten them all out before mowing. If grass gets overgrown then the mower won't cut well, as the grass will just get pushed down flat before reaching the blades and the mower will roll right over it without cutting, so you have to stay on top of it and not let it get too tall. I also have to make multiple passes through some parts of the yard, especially the couple of clover patches that I have. The mower either gets bogged down in the dense clover or the wheels push it down and it doesn't "pop" back up fast enough for the blades to cut it on the next pass. The mower is relatively easy to push unless you are in dense or tall grass, and the noise is definitely less than a motorized mower, though it was louder than I expected it to be. You definitely have the metal on metal sound of the blades rubbing together, but it's nothing compared to a standard mower. Overall I'm pleased with the purchase. It's nice to not worry about starting a mower up, getting gas in a can to keep it going, etc. It's also nice to carry it from the garage to the yard with one hand and store it easily, plus it was cheaper than a motorized mower!

If, like me, you're tempted to make the change from a gas mower to a reel mower, keep reading. While most of the reviews on Amazon are positive for this mower, the one-star reviews made me nervous, especially since I have a fairly large lawn to mow. After my experience with the first mow last night, I can tell you not to worry. Performance: My lawn was a little higher than normal, so it was a good test for mower. The cut was clean and efficient. It took a couple of passes to realize I was leaving a strip of unmowed grass if I tracked my progress from wheel indention to wheel indention in the grass. The blades stop an inch or so short of the wheel, so you will need to overlap somewhat. I experienced very few problem areas that required multiple passes. A real plus was there were no clumps of grass left behind the mower. With my gas mower, I would typically need to go deal with a couple of grass clumps with the lawn as high as it was. Sticks were a minor problem: most of them went under the reel but the few that stuck up, did get caught and stopped the mower in it's tracks -- even very small sticks. If you have a wooded area to mow with lots of branches, think twice about a manual mower. On the other hand, you don't have to worry about one being launched as a projectile! Comfort: Don't be fooled by it not having a motor: it is noisy and you will have a difficult time hearing anyone while you are pushing it. That said, it doesn't hold a candle to the noise of a gas mower. With the high gear ratio of the blades to the wheels, it takes an intial umph to get the reel moving (I couldn't do it very well one-handed) but momentum is on your side once you're on your way. While it is much lighter weight, I think it is a tie with my gas mower on ease of pushing. The mower will throw cut grass all over your feet. Since it is thrown with so little force, you don't feel it and I noticed the wind was blowing much of it to the side before it even reached me. Intangibles: It felt good to mow the lawn completely under my own muscle power. There was much less noise, the noise stops as you turn around to start the next row, and you don't smell like exhaust when the mowing is done. While I worked up a good sweat (about the same as with the gas mower) it was a very different feeling (and smell) than you get with a gas mower. Overall: I would highly recommend. This model with a 20" swath, is larger than most of the ones I've seen around town. It probably makes it more difficult to push than a narrower one but I would only see that as a factor if you were quite petite. Oh, don't bother ordering the sharpener that Amazon tries to pair with the mower...it cuts perfectly out of the box and the manual states it shouldn't need to be sharpened for a number of years with normal use. ****UPDATE***** After using the reel mower for the remainder of the summer, I have a few additional points to add. Pro 1) Mower continues to cut well and I have not been tempted to switch back to my gas mower. 2) I will mow a small patch if I only have a few minutes because there is so little hassle in using the mower. Con 1) It helps to have a weedeater for the taller weeds that will never cut, no matter how many times you make a pass. 2) The foam handle has basically disintegrated. I wrapped it with duct tape before it completely fell apart and it everything is OK. 3) I've had some problems with the mower engaging with the wheel. Some times the wheel will rotate but the mower will not engage. Doesn't happen often and usually happens when starting out. I've not tried to investigate the problem or contact Scotts for support. Overall, I would lower my rating to 3 stars for the product for the handle and blade engagement issues. However, I don't see myself ever going back to gas.

Here is my comparison between the 18 inch versions between both Scott's and Fiskars. I was hesitant to buy this Scott's 18" reel mower because I've tried a bunch of different Scott's products with poor success (grass seed, starter fertilizer, handheld seed spreader). After I have searched every reel mower on Amazon, read the majority of the reviews and seeing countless forums and videos about reel mowers, I understood that every reel mower including Scott's and Fiskars has its flaws. So I took a personal look at both 18 inch models since I felt after all my research these might be the best reel mowers to choose from on Amazon. First impressions after setting both models up, was that Fiskars looked much more impressive in terms of looks. The blades on Fiskars look thicker and more sturdier and seem to live up to the Fiskar name because Fiskars is probably the best when it comes to blades (ie. scissors). But that does not mean Scott's blades are junk. Both models will be just fine in terms of cutting ability. However, Fiskars uses what I would call glorified metal hair pins to hold your mower handle at the angle you want. In other words, if you want to lower your handle that you use to push the mower, you have to pull out a stiff, thin, metal pin, then move your handle forward and up or backwards and down and then insert the pin again. And if you are not careful putting in the pin all the way, that pin would be hard to find in your lawn. The bottom of the pin has what I'd describe as several mini s shapes connected on top of each other. The irregular bottom shape of the pin is meant in theory to keep the pin secure. However, this shape, as well as the thinness and hardness of the pin made it stressful on the fingers to pull the pin out and difficult to push in. I was also afraid too much force putting it back in might break the pin. It was a very inconvenient process that did not just take a few seconds. Scott's does not use a pin or any type of locking device for the handle. The handle can swing freely forward and backwards. When I am using the mower, the handle behaves as if it is not moving. Once I take my hands off, the handle swings backwards. The backwards swing is not enough to tip the mower backwards to the ground or to hurt you. But before I let go the handle I do bring the handle backwards until it cannot move further. This way the connectors at the bottom of the handle don't wear off somehow over time and it only takes an extra second of my time (if even that). I only say somehow because the connectors are stronger metal, with a metal screw and not cheap plastic. Also unlike Fiskars, I like that you can clearly see the bolt that screws in the wheels for Scott's. So I am not sure if the wheels for Fiskars are screwed or glued in (which tend to fall off) as some of the cheaper mowers or dethatchers have done in the past. The big wheels on both models are rubber. But for the smaller wheels, Fiskars is rubber and Scott's is hardened plastic. But the rubber on smaller Fiskar's wheels is very thin and could wear out quickly and I don't like that it seems to have very little support around it, especially since the weight of Fiskars is 52 pounds (compared to Scott's 26 pounds). Fiskars is better at cutting edges especially along fence lines (standing behind the Fiskars mower, cut only from your left side as the handle on the right will be further from the edge). The Fiskars model gets you about a inch from the fence line as there is a big screw bolt that will make you want to go slower along the fence line to prevent you from scratching your fence. Scott's blade is about 2.5 inch from the fence line. In order to trim along a fence line or plant border, I use two long handled shears. One shear is horizontally bladed which is better for wall edges like along a fence or garden border. The vertical shears are better along an open edge like a curb or driveway, where the grass is bending more flatter. But using both together for either scenerio will get your edges looking perfect, if you have the time. For cutting alone a cement edge like a curb or sidewalk, I like Scott's better. Most times I don't have to use a trimmer or sickle (if at all), because I place 2 wheels on one side on the curb or sidewalk and I tilt the opposite side in the air toward the grass edge and its able to trim the edges. I have a sidewalk edge that is uneven and goes from 2 inch to about 6 inches. At the higher edge I tilt the reel mower higher to one side and it is able to cut that fine. However, the tilting approach is better if you mow you grass about once a week (maybe once every two weeks if you had no rain during that period). Grasses along an open edge tend to want to grow horizontally since no grasses to help support it up on one side. So the longer you wait to mow, the more those outer grasses will bend flat and down. And for most people, I think Fiskars is too heavy to try my tilting approach. It is twice the weight of Scotts. When using on slopes or hill (going across and not up or down which would be harder), Scott's is better. Fiskars will be harder to keep on a straight path as its weight will want to pull the mower slightly toward the down direction. I don't have that problem with Scott's. What is physically easier to use? I say easier and not easy because you will be using all your strength unlike an electric or gas powered mower which moves itself with you guiding the direction). If you have lot of grass to cut, you will feel it with either model. Fiskars uses a chain to help it move, but that does not mean it is easier to move than other brands. I feel the Scott's version is easier to move because it weighs less. Also I don't have to worry about having to replace the chain if it ever breaks. I have used Scotts about 30 times so far and nothing has broken yet. The blades are still sharp and I have not had a need to adjust the blades so far. This mower can cut from 1 to 3 inches (your grass will be this height after it is cut). But the default setting for this mower is between 2 and 3 inches. If you want to cut lower than 2 inches, you can if you remove the outer cover on both wheels and do an adjustment (rotating the hidden circular metal piece). This allows you to adjust from 1.5 to 2.5 inches or from 1 to 2 inches. I don't know much beyond that as I keep the cut at 3 inches during the heat time so that my grass stays healthy and not needing to water it as much. Scotts is supposed to cut grass as high as 4.5 inches down to 3 inches (or whatever height you set the mower to). Fiskars can cut down to 4 inches which I wish Scott's could have done. I have tried cutting taller grass like 6 to 8 inches and the mower can do it but it takes multiple passes to do it. I would strongly advise you not to wait this long to cut your grass with a manual reel mower. It nearly tripled my time to cut and my body ached in pain within 2 days. If you have lot of tall grass, its better to cut them down with a sickle, electric trimmer or grass shears and then use the mower to even things out. But the best option for saving time would be a corded or gas mower once and after maintaining the lawn with the manual reel mower. And by maintain I mean not letting the grass grow more than 2 inches from your desired height (but 1 inch or less would be better on your body). So if you desire you grass to be at a height of 3 inches, cut the grass before it reaches 5 inches (or better 4 inches or less). After you do the above, check and see if you still have any tall grass that is secretly lying flat. Use a rake to lift up the grass within a small area and keep your mower or above tools nearby as you move from section to section on your lawn and immediately mow it down. Otherwise if you rake your entire yard first (instead of section by section, rake then mow), then at some point you might accidently step on those raked up, long grasses, before you had a chance to mow it. Do the above prep before mowing because you will tire yourself out if you use this mower to cut an entire lawn that is very tall. This lengthy section by section procedure is only if you haven't mowed for about 2 weeks or longer rather than every week. But with an electric or gas powered mower with bag attached, you will have almost a vacuum suction that lifts up most of your flattened grass. This is a real critical decision you have to make which is not easy. You can have a clean cut, healthier lawn (not necessarily completely healthy always) of a reel mower compared to the significant timer saver but tearing actions of a gas or electric mower. The cleaner the cut (more even cut), the less risk of disease to your lawn. A good compromise is if you have not cut your grass for weeks but now ready to cut at least weekly, then use an electric or gas mower on day one to save you a lot of time cutting the long grass and which should suck up and cut the flattened grass (but check). Then after, every 2 to 7 days maintain with the reel mower. This this help straighten the crooked tops of the grass blade made by the electric or gas mower and keep your grass comparatively healthly. I used to do all my mowing and edge trimming same day but it gets to be too much. So once every two to three weeks I will do the edges but no mowing on the week I do the edging. On two different days, I will do the front yard and backyard. This has significantly helped me better tolerate using a reel mower. If you want to use a reel mower, I recommend cutting once a week. When I was cutting twice a week, it was even easier to mow. You could potentially stretch your mowing schedule to 10 days to 2 weeks as I have done many times. But it will be harder (but tolerable) to cut if you do that so beware. I would not go closer to two weeks. If you had any heavy in that time period. In the summer during drought season, I will wait to mow on that rare cloudy, cooler day. I usually check weather app forecast to plan when I mow. 79 degrees is tops for me. I found when temperatures are higher, the mower feels much harder to push and will leave tire marks on your lawn. When it will be cooler or cloudy or will rain later that day, I will mow the entire grass without any of the previous mentioned prep. Only for drought season I do not rake grass before mowing because the grass is stressed enough during the drought to add that extra step. Now cutting the lawn will stress your grass but the grass can recover faster and a cooler, cloudy day if you don't add any other steps to your lawncare (like raking). Whatever grass is still long after mowing I will use use a long handled grass shear or sickle to do just a basic trim those grasses. At the end of summer (late August or September) when it's less than 80 degrees consistently, I will do the section by section prep work I mentioned earlier to be more thorough if removing any tall grasses that are flattened. Also reel mowers are not good for cutting down weeds with any thickness great than a grass blade. I do I have to pull them out by hand. And here and there will be a strand of grass that the mower won't cut and I just pull half of its height by hand. Ornamental grass it will not cut. Clover or dandelion with enough height for the blades, it had cut them for me. Also keep in mind if you wait a couple of weeks or longer to cut your grass, the cut pieces could be 2 to 3 inches or longer. If this would become a habit of waiting this long, then it could contribute to thatch or yellowing of standing grass. Longer cut pieces of grass take longer to break down and could crowd out your grass so that it would be harder for water or fertilizer to reach your soil. There is no grass bag (grass catcher) made specifically by Scott's, except for one made by American Lawn Mower. It is model GC91820 which only fits the 18 inch model. However, this is not durable and made with what I call a cardboard bottom. Some grass slips out where the bag/catcher attaches to the mower. And when you want to turn your mower to the opposite direction, the bag/catcher slips out from the mower. I recommend getting no bag/catcher. Let the cut grass fall in between your standing grass. If most the pieces are long like 3 inches or more, rake them out, or use a gas/ electric mower with bagger to suck them out, or use a lawn sweeper to collect them or use a blower to blow them off your lawn. Or cut no longer than 2 weeks to avoid this (1 week or less preferable). I would also recommend you cut say north to south direction (path 1) then when you turn around and to cut a new path from south to north (path 2), try and overlap 1/3 to 1/2 of path 1 with your new path 2. In other words, your new path should include some of what you already cut so that you make sure everything is cut. If you try to be exact and "save time" by overlapping only a inch or two, you will most likely leave some grass uncut. For me using something big like 1/3 to 1/2 takes longer but it virtually guarantees I cut everything. Then the next time you decide to cut the grass, go from east to west direction and back from west to east on a new path. Then another day cut diagonally back and forth. When you change your pattern for each day then your grass will look even better. Sometimes you cut from north to south and vice versa but some of your grass grows east to west or diagonally so you won't cut them as precise. But taking a different direction each time makes sure you cut your grass from every angle. This helps the grass grow upward rather than flat and sideways. To makes sure your mower lasts a long time, please make sure you remove any sticks / branches, stones, bark that is in your lawn before using the mower. No matter how soft or thin or small you think these things are, they will damage your blades slowly. And after every use, wash the mowing blades with a hose and also wash the stationary blade that is on the bottom of the mower by flipping the mower to its back side. Then take small amount of cooking oil and carefully put on the edges of the mowing blades and the stationary blade. When cleaning the mowing blade, hold the sides of the blade to prevent the blade from moving and to avoid the blade cutting you. Apply the oil slowly and do not rush it to prevent injury. When apply oil on the stationary blade below, don't just stick your hands from the front side through the mowing blades to get to the bottom blade. First flip the mower to its back side, hold the mowing blades (with adjustable wrench especially if you have weaker grip strength) so they don't rotate while you apply the oil to the stationary blade. Don't saturate the blades with oil as it will cause cut grass to stick to the blades next time you use the mower. Only apply little to the top of the blade and wipe off any excess on the side. This will prevent rusting of the blades as long as possible and remove the loud, scratching sound that many other reel mower users experience (but I don't experience). If you apply these maintenance tips to any brand name reel mower, it should last long time. I say brand name because the blades are the most important part and I don't know if the blades on the cheaper brands are of the same quality of metal or if their blades are more prone to rust. Some times when mowing, the wheels with get jammed. Flip the mower upside down so that you can clearly see the where the stationary, long, rectangular blade and the rotating blades are touching. There you will see some stuck in between like a inch tall branch piece or something else. Do not simply pull out the obstruction with one hand or else, once it is out, the rotating blades can quickly spin and cut your fingers. What I do is with one hand firmly pinching the part of the rotating blade farther away from the unmoving, rectangular blade to prevent from moving. And with the other hand, very slowly pull out the tiny branch. As I am pulling it out slowly, with the other hand I am moving the rotating blade slightly back and forth (maybe 1/8 of an inch) so that the tiny piece can slip out. If you don't have enough grip strength in the fingers, then have one person use the needle nose pliers to slowly pull the tiny object out and another person to use an adjustable wrench to hold steady the rotating blade and move the blade slowly with tiny movements back and forth. Whatever method you use, do it very slowly and carefully! When you carry the mower using the lower horizontal bar to help preserve the health of the front rubber tires, you might accidentally move the height setting on one of the sides as has happened to me a few times. So here and there and especially whenever you pick up the mower, check both sides to see if the height setting is still the same. Both brands are good but Fiskars is nearly 2-1/2 times the cost of Scott's. My Scotts mower is performing really well and my grass is thriving compared to using a standard mower. So is Fiskars 2-1/2 times better? No. Fiskars is twice the weight which is a major negative for me. Whatever brand you end up getting, I strongly recommend getting a 7 blade version compared to the standard 5 blade. The more blades you have the better cut you will get. The 5 blade might be easier for really tall grass to get through like 7 or 8 inches, but you will have to do extremely time consuming, multiple passes over the same area if you wait to too long to cut your grass. The 7 blade version gives more of the carpet looking cut. It might be tempting to look at the models with smaller widths to save $15-20. But say you get the 14 inch model. If you use about a 30% overlap between your cutting paths, you will only be cutting about 8 inches width of new grass at a time seriously lengthening your grass cutting time. In the fall or spring it might feel like a fun exercise. But in the humidity of the summer, I believe you will feel differently and might even hate using the mower. Remember the saying, Time is also Money. So stick with 18 inches or more but with 7 blades.

I an unsure as to what some are complaining about with this little mower. It IS a reel mower after all, and powered up by me, not oil and gasoline. I LOVE this little mower! I just got it last week, did nothing but pull it out of the box, put it together, which was a breeze, and starting cutting grass! My yard is 1/2 acre in size, with half of that being fairly flat, with a slight grade to it, and then my front and back yards both have slopes in them, with a constant upgrade in the backyard. Going up that hill was tough, only because I have allowed myself to get so out of shape. The mower itself was fine, and cut the grass great! It was me needing to stop and catch my breath every few "laps" on that backyard, and parts of the front, but that was not the mower's fault. That's me, getting myself back into better physical shape for using this little mower. I found it to be a breeze to use. Yes, I did have a few areas where it would miss some weeds or an onion or two, but I found that if I lined it up with the actual center of the mower reel it would then cut right through those onion weeds with a second, or third swipe. Remember that it cuts like a pair of scissors and its best area for cutting thick grass or onion weeds is in the center of the blade, or reel. And if it did not cut through it after centering it up, and giving it another couple of quick swipes, then I would just reach down and pull the onion weed out myself. But this was rare. Overall it did a great job! I am very, very happy with it and would recommend it to those who have smaller yards like myself, and decently flat yards. Like I said, I do have a long grade and hill in my backyard especially, and my front has slopes in it, but it cut through them just fine. I just had to take several water breaks and catching-my-breath breaks. But as the spring moves into summer I am sure that this little mower will get me in better and better physical shape, too, as I use it. We're talking couch potato here, so those of you who already run or walk on a regular basis, this will be a piece of cake for you. I will consider sharpening the blades down the road, but it did just fine right out of the box. The only downsides are, it is going to take a little more physical umph, push and strength to move it up those slopes in my yard, but overall that is better for me. And I will do what others suggested and use WD40 or Synthetic Oil on it to keep it in good running order. I do think the handle is a little too flimsy, but it's okay and tolerable. Overall I am very, very happy with it, and no, I am not a reel mower salesperson, I am a woman, whom happens to be a little bit overweight, am 5'2", and 49 years old, and I LOVE this little mower! Good luck, to those of you who are considering purchasing one of these little models for yourselves!

Let me preface this review with this statement: If you have a flat, straight, clean yard; this thing cuts like a dream. It's awesome, and worth it. However, my yard is not, for the most part, and that's why it drives me bonkers. I've had it about 2 months now, and I've cut my yard 3 times in the last two months, and not for lack of needing to. I wanted to start personally cutting my yard again, and I didn't want to deal with a bulky motored one. I read the reviews, and I figured I'd give this the benefit of the doubt, because I've always wanted to use a manual push mower. However, this device has serious issues with traits that many yards have, and it's so frustrating to cut my yard, because I can't get through a moderately small area without issues. One thing, if there's any debris in your yard, it gets caught up. My neighborhood requires mulch in the flowerbeds, so of course, it's everywhere in my yard. I've even attempted pre-raking my yard to get rid of them, but there's always some little bit, which this mower will pick up and catch, which it then drags into your yard, and in mine, made wheel divots. Every other second, it catches. I'm so used to mulching mowers, it's been a bit of wake-up. I'm not sure if it's just the manual power versus a motor, but unless I'm running full tilt through my yard, I can't go a foot without stopping. The second issue is more of a design problem. I figured that having the blades slung between two sets of wheels would be a good thing, but the configuration of the handle in relation to the mower is off. I understand that placing it behind the front wheels allows a better transmission of force in pushing the main wheels and gears, but the lack of weight in the small wheels, plus the resistance of the gears, means that if you hit any deep or thick patch of grass, you flip the mower. Because of the position of the handle, if it slows even a little, the force needed to push it just flips it each time, raising the back wheels, and you get a wavy cut on your lawn. I have Morse code on my lawn, from where it cuts then doesn't cut. My grass grows decently well on a rainy week, so just patches of that thicker grass is enough for it to stutter as I've mentioned. I can't cut my lawn every day to keep it at a manageable level, that's unreasonable. I might move to where I'll have a perfect lawn, and then I'll be happy. For now, I might have to go for a single wheel mower, or something else.

As much as I love gardening, I hate mowing the lawn. I hate lugging my power mower out of the garage and maneuvering it around our cars and all my husband's junk. I hate the noise it makes. It's heavy to push and hard to get it into tight spaces. I thought I was at least avoiding the hassle and environmental issues of gasoline by buying an electric rechargeable one. But after a few years the battery stopped holding a charge and they discontinued the replacement batteries, so the whole thing is a giant piece of e-waste now. I didn't want to buy another one, so I decided to try an old-fashioned reel mower instead. Some of the reviews on this product had me worried. Some people found them hard to push, some said they get caught up on every little tough weed and twig, etc. After using my new Scotts reel mower for the first time, I really don't understand what those people were talking about. Maybe they were using it on super-high grass, or on wet grass. But the first time I used mine, I found it WAY easier to use than a power mower. It takes up much less space in the garage, and I can just pick it up with one arm and carry it outside. You walk up and down the yard with it, you're done in a few minutes, and that's it. I like that this particular model allows you to adjust the height to a maximum of 3 inches. (That's the height that's supposed to be healthier for your lawn and better for water conservation, but most reel mowers don't adjust that high.) There are a few caveats. If you look at my picture where I've used the 3" setting, you'll see that it doesn't chop every single blade of grass to a uniform height, like a carpet. Any grass or weeds that grow sideways, or that are tall and flimsy, don't get trimmed. I did have to bend down to pick a few dandelions it didn't get. But overall, considering it took me all of 10 minutes to cut it, and without breaking a sweat, I'm pretty thrilled with it. The other thing is that it does not eliminate the need for an edger/trimmer. You can see I had to leave some taller grass at the base of the trees. The one tree has a ring of rocks around it, and I was afraid of damaging the blades. I got closer to the other tree, but I'll still have to go back and use the weedeater around the base. But then, you'd have the same issue with any other mower as well. Some people complained it gets stuck on sticks and rocks. We had a wind storm the day before I mowed, and I did take a couple of minutes to go out and pick up any sticks that were big enough to stick up out of the lawn. But I certainly didn't pick up every little twig and seedpod. You can see quite a few of them still in the grass, and the mower didn't get stuck on any of them. I did have to bend down to pluck up a few dandelions by hand, though, as the mower just bent them over and didn't cut them. And there were a couple of little spots where I had to go over them a second time, because a few random blades were still sticking up. When I cut my lawn, it had only been about a week since the last trim, so I didn't have to cut off a lot of length. But if you let your grass get high, the mower is going to be harder to push. And if your grass is REALLY high, the mower might just sort of push it all over instead of cutting it. But that was also true with my old power mower. If you let the grass get really long, you need to go over it with a weedeater, then mow at the highest setting, and then lower it and go over it again. Obviously, it's better not to let your grass get that long in the first place. But the great thing about the reel mower is that it's so much easier to use than my power mower, I won't be nearly as lazy about pulling it out of the garage to use it more often. In fact, as much as cutting the grass can be fun, it was sort of fun. If you're wondering whether the grass catcher attachment is worthwhile... not really. The trimmings just sort of fly up in the air, and the open-topped bag picks up whatever happens to land in it, but a lot of trimmings still end up in the grass. The trimmings will help mulch your lawn and keep it healthy anyway. I only bought the grass catcher because I was hoping I wouldn't have to sweep the sidewalk. There was less to sweep up, but I still had to make a quick pass with a broom. I probably won't return the grass catcher, but if I had it to do over I probably wouldn't bother with it. Reel mowers are available in a lot of different widths, with this 20" one being one of the widest available. If you're wondering what width you should get, the wider they are, the more grass you can cut at once, which means they're also harder to push because there's more resistance. That said, I didn't find the 20" to be remotely hard to push. (The claims about it being a "good workout" are a bit overblown.) The only reason I could see for getting a narrower one is if you have a lot of really tight spaces in your yard that require some tricky maneuvering. The mower also works better if you are walking quickly, because that makes the blades turn faster. So you have strength or mobility issues that might make it harder for you to push it quickly, that might also be a reason to get one of the narrower models.

Great quality,Nice size 14"cut.Sturdy handles and the blades are so sharp.Large wheels.Slight downside is that it does not havea grass catcher.But for me that is not a problem.I looked at a lot of this type of lawnmower and im so glad i chose the Scotts reel mower.

This is the Porsche of reel mowers: easy to push, lightweight, easy to sharpen (with an auxiliary sharpening kit, $25.00), well-engineered and nicely painted. It can be set to five different cutting levels in three ranges, moving from very low (1") to high (2.5"). Out of the box it comes adjusted to the highest range, but this can be changed to one of the two lower ranges fairly easily by removing the wheels. There are several youTube videos that explain how to do this. It is important to know that push mowers don't handle very long grass or weeds very well. On the other hand, they do a great job of manicuring lawns to a uniform height. Unlike power movers, they actually cut the leaves rather than ripping off the tops. And (of course) the Scott's 2000 is good on gas and good for the environment, and it's not going to wake up the baby.

je trouve le délai de livraison un peu trop long, mais elle me convient parfaitement pour réaliser des économies électriques

I honestly didn't really expect this to be up to the job I had in mind for it...but it has proved me completely wrong I'm happy to say! We have a croft (smallholding) that has no power and I'm rubbish at starting petrol mowers, but we needed a solution to keep the long, rough grass under control now that the growing season is under way. The width of this cutting blade seemed great, so for the price it had to be worth a try. It has done a fabulous job! I gave everything a first cut on the middle setting to clear tussocks, but subsequent cuts can now be on the lowest setting. Downhill, it's a breeze. Uphill requires a bit of a running start and some welly, but someone stronger than me, (a skinny 56 Yr old woman) might even manage a standing start! It's very sharp and I bought the blade sharpener too to keep it that way. I love it and can't recommend it highly enough. It doesn't cut the shortest I've ever seen but for my purposes that's ideal.

Leider sind es keine Kugellager bei den Rädern ,sondern nur Gleitlager.