General Technologies Corp GTC CT6100 Fuse Socket Connector Kit , Yellow

good quality, thanks

I needed a way to add a bypass switch to my fuse box for my dome lights as my headlight switch in my vehicle doesn't operate where you can turn off your dome lights manually - guess they skipped that piece in the engineering phase!). I was able to use this in place of my fuse and hook up an inline fuse to a toggle switch and all is right in the world now!

These things are pretty neat, and a very convenient item to toss in your tool box. I purchased them to help identify a vampire power draw in my car. I didn't want to continue to unplug the vehicles battery with an amp meter in line. Newer cars have different types of electronics that will run in standby mode for a while and unplugging the battery will cause all sorts of different things to occur that could hinder my troubleshooting. With this I was able to quickly check each fuse for its draw and identified my culprit in minutes.

Great for testing circuits. Especially nice to be able to attach meter and just pop the connector in and out to check multiple circuits. However, the mini size I use most often is a bit short to plug in to a few of the more recessed vehicle fuse blocks. I can usually get it to make contact by manually holding it in but that defeats the plug in convenience.

Well made and worth the cost. Fast shipping. Good safe way to wire some newer vehicles. No chance of fire or damage if wired correctly. Highly recommend product and seller.

Made my job easy on the day they arrived. Had a fog light that worked for a few minutes only, then blew the fuse. Customer had replaced it 5 times with the same result. I fitted this "socket connector" in place of the fuse and measured the draw current (amps). It was just over the fuse blow rating (draw of 18 amps on a manufacturer's recommended 15 amp fuse). Disconnected main draw being a fog light, but still had a 9 amp draw until I removed the relay. I removed and tested the relay on the bench. I found the relay's electro magnetic coil had short circuited and although it still worked as a relay should, it consumed far greater than the less than 1 amp as designed. The job took no more than 15 minutes all up to diagnose, test components, replace the fuse and relay. No fuses were sacrificed in testing. As a tradesman, I don't go for "try this or try that" technique that take hours more than necessary and you don't know just why the part was causing the trouble. Anyway, a highly recommended, cheap and easy to use tool used by professionals.

If you have have the pleasure of trying to track down a short but the wire probe will not stay in the fuse holder than these connectors are for you. I use them to hook my power probe or self test light to lead to the top of the connector while it is in the fuse holder. Now, many mechs/people are probably thinking the power will go through the circuit once the connector is in place so the circuit will always have power so you can't use a test light; not if you black tape the power side of the connector while it's in the holder. I find I can quickly trace down the short to either the power side or harness side of the fuse, cutting down my diagnostic time. This is a friendly tip since DIYs like to cut factory wiring for lights, sound systems, and alarms then later have a short because they didn't solder, tape, or shrink tube their circuit.

These are awesome! They use a sheet metal that may be a little thinner than the fuses they will replace, but that only ensures you are not spreading open the terminals into which they are inserted. For me, they will be used to perform load (current) draw on a fused circuit. I made a pigtail with a inline fuse that will attach to each of the terminals, forming a loop to attach my amp clamp. You can buy something like that already made up, but at a higher price than what I am spending. For what it is going to be used for - these are perfect! Another nice feature is the un-documented plastic post between the terminals, you can use it to pull the unit out of the fuse block with a pair of needle nose pliers. If you are going to do the same thing, I'd recommend insulating the terminals on the fused pig tail with a piece of heat shrink or use insulated terminals. Free shipping was a big plus also!

Muy buena herramienta.. Te ayuda para diagnosticar. Me hubiera gustado de un material de mejor calidad.. Sólo ese detalle.. Por eso no le doy las 5 estrellas

Car battery keeps going flat within a week, so needing to test multiple circuits over a prolonged period of time as the drain isn’t fast enough or constant to be showing for those few seconds I’ve checked each fused circuit. With these I can replace each fuse one at a time with the adapter, connect to my multimeter (with an inline fuse of the same rating for safety), set it to max/min then walk away for a while. The 3 pack comes with mini / std / maxi size. Spade connectors (1/4” or 6.3mm) or crocodile clips for the test leads and I no longer have to hold the probes in place of just keep randomly pulling fuses. 17 circuits tested and still no parasitic draw found… about another 30 to go. They feel pretty sturdy and should last for a DIY mechanic. For a pro you might want to carry spares. They really benefit from the blade connectors, which are a good size, making them easy to use and not fiddly at all, which they would have been if they’d had smaller or different connectors. I saw some where test leads were literally soldered and just knew that was a weak point waiting to give so opted for these instead. I even like that they’re quite a bright yellow. How many times do you drop a screw, nut, bolt, or something into the engine bay? These should be easy to see and with the metal spade connectors a long reach magnet will retrieve them from practically any space. My only criticism is that the blade fuse connectors were an ‘exceptionally’ tight fit and I really had to force them to start with. I resolved this within a few minutes by using some fine wet n dry sandpaper to file them down a little. For this reason, and only this reason, I can’t give them 5 stars. They do stick out quite a bit, but any 90 degree fuse tap (as shown in 1st photo) would solve that if your fuse board doesn’t have the clearance. Otherwise a great addition for any auto electrician’s basic tool kit as they definitely perform well in their task and the price is just about right. Certainly well worth it as opposed to paying an auto electrician for several hours labour just to find the fault or wasting money on a new battery when it’s not the battery that’s the problem.

I was looking for just this product for electrical diagnostics on our BMW X3. They lend themselves perfectly for testing circuit voltage and current draw with a loop and clamp meter. These connectors make the impossible task of getting a meter in tight spaces a breeze and insure that you don't accidentally short your system out. Well made and well priced and incredibly handy!

Works good

This is exactly what i needed