Photosensitive (30cm x 500cm/1ft*16.5ft) PCB Photosensitive Dry Film for Circuit Production Photoresist Sheets, Replace Thermal Transfer PCB Board

Arrived in a light proof wrap and as all other users report, removing the outer plastic lining is the difficult bit - after getting used to two pieces of sticky tape it worked a charm. Had mixed results with iron, so bought cheap Amazon Laminator. Hey presto! Simple fast and great image transfer. Incidentally I used a proper UV source in a quite old circuit board developer unit for my use of making photoetched parts. Great purchase.

This film works as expected for the application. I expose it with a UV hand torch and develop in caustic soda solution. It is a bit difficult to apply correctly to the circuit board - too much heat and it wrinkles and bubbles, not enough and traces fall off. After experimenting with a few different techniques, I have found a hot air gun works well enough.

The main issue with this is that it doesn't come with any instructions, so if like me you've only used pre-sensitized boards before, you'll have to do some background research on how to use and develop the film. After some searching around the internet, I had some pretty good results using this film first time. I will certainly use it again.

Der PCB Dryfilm funktioniert sehr gut.Es ist nicht einfach den Film ohne Hilfsmittel auf die Platine aufzubringen.Ich habe es nicht geschafft den Film ohne Blasen aufzuziehen.Die Blasen habe ich mit einer Nadel aufgestochen.Danach habe ich die Platine mit Backpapier abgedeckt und mehrfach durch einen altenLaminator laufen lassen. Danach war die Beschichtung brauchbar.Die Patine habe ich mit einem ISEL - Belichter belichtet.Die belichteten Stellen färben sich blau. Es ergibt sich ein guter Kontrast.Mit Natronlauge (7 Gramm / Liter) habe ich die Platine entwickelt.Danach geätzt. Die Qualität der Leiterplatte ist gut.

I have been using this type of film for about twenty-five years, from back when you had to buy it from an industrial supplier (2 rolls in a box and with hundreds of feet of film!) and have had all the problems listed here. A few tips from my years…The film has a half life. Don’t buy more than you will use in a year. If you start getting voids in your copper and can’t seem to fix the problem, dump it and get another roll.If you use a laser printer for the negative, print TWO copies on transparencies and stack them together. Use a single stripe of rubber cement at one end of the images to keep them together and aligned. I have never found a printer that will give sufficient density with just one copy. A clue of a too-thin mask is when you get hard to etch shadows on your boards, or pads and traces that touch each other no matter how long you etch.To get the first plastic off, hold your cut piece of film (curl up) with one edge on a hard surface, take a single edged razor blade and holding the blade vertical and flat, press down and pull on the film at a corner - a quarter inch or less is enough. Takes a bit if practice to get the pressure right without cutting, but the plastic will stretch and pull away from the green film, making it easy to pull off.I used a hobby heat gun for years, but a cheap laminator works much better these days. Carefully lay the stripped film on the copper without pressing anywhere. Once it is aligned, push down with your thumb on the edge that will enter the laminator. This will tack it into place long enough for it to be accepted by the rollers.Ordinary blacklights from the mall will work fine for exposing. I have a pair of full sized, 24” bulbs mounted to give about eight inches between bulbs and board. With a paired mask, or a real one made from X-Ray film, four or five minutes will give a super hard resist. If you are getting shadows, make your mask denser or lower the time. Three minutes is about the shortest time, although I have successfully used two minutes with a too-light mask.You can double side a board in two ways. Make one side in the normal way, but after the developing, let the resist dry and get hard, then scrub the other side and do it again. Or… Laminate both sides at once. This will work with a laminator, but will take some practice in keeping two loose pieces of film in place until squeezed and heated.Finally. Shadows, fat text, and touching pads and traces are from too much exposure or a mask that is too thin (not dark enough). Voids that become worse as times progresses is a sign of expired film. Drill the board before the processing for best results. (Drilling afterward tends to rip the small pads from the board.) Clean the copper with a Scotch Bright pad from the grocery store, not steel wool. If you use ferric chloride for etchant, do it outside or in a workshop. Any spill will stain anything instantly and can NEVER be cleaned up unless it is in a stainless steel or plastic container.Go for it. Great hobby.

Pellicola conforme alle mie aspettative e arrivata nei tempi previsti. Ottimo rapporto qualità prezzo. Personalmente la uso per incisione su piccoli particolari in metallo ed è perfetta per questo uso. Consigliatissima.

Works as required, would buy again great product! ** Edit Have now bought the product a second time Still Great and shipment was fast Very impressed! **

基板エッチング製作に購入生基板への貼り付けはラミネータを用いて加熱圧着手間はかかりますが、きれいにパターンを製作できました露光はネイル用に市販されている安価なUVライト（レジン用）でもできました