HOMREE DC DC Converter 12V/24V to 5V 3A Buck Module Standard USB Output

Most dashcams come with a USB cable and you simply plug that sucker into the female end of this and you are good to go. I tapped into the power and ground of my autodimming mirror (or you can tap into the overhead console lights), I used "Lockitt POSI-TAP" connectors and I tucked everything into the space up there cleanly. Good to go. Has worked for 2 years now, sorry for the late review lol, but it does show that this is durable and much more reliable than the so called dashcam hardwire kits you see online.

I love this dc converter. My use was for a ham radio box I made for field day. I have a raspberry Pi computer and 7" touchscreen in it. This requires the use of 5V, and everything else requires 12V. This allowed me to connect the power supply to the RPi. There are 2 wires, a red and a black. Black goes you your negative, and positive to your positive, although I would suggest a fuse, just in case. This does just one thing, change 12V to 5V. It works flawlessly, and is an awesome thing to use.

I am mounting Amazon Fire HD pads throughout my house to upgrade from my older DSC security system controllers. Those controllers operated on a low voltage system (12V). I used the same wiring to connect this converter to a USB charging cable for the pads so that the pads will always be charging. This converter seems to be well made and was very easy to attach with plastic electrical wire connectors. I mounted it in an electrical box and mounted the pad in a case over that. This system worked flawlessly. Now I can easily remove the pads as needed and I don't have to worry about charging them.

This product worked flawlessly to power my raspberry pi 3b+ directly from my Ender 3 Pro PSU. It fits perfectly in the empty space on one side of the PSU. I just wish the conductor wires were a little longer.

I bought a Ring alarm system that of course came with a keypad. I didn't want string the keypad's power cord, which has a USB connector on one end, to a nearby electrical outlet. So I searched the web and found this adapter to convert A/C to USB power rating. Luckily the house we bought had a alarm system pre-wired so I hooked up the red & black wires of the adapter to the corresponding red & black wires of the alarm wiring, stuck the device in the circuit box, and the plugged the USB end onto the Ring keypad, and voila, my keypad is powered.

I have a BlinkXT camera mounted on my Solar\battery powered Liftmaster gate opener. The camera goes through the AA Lithium batteries rather quickly due to the heavy usage by cars, and people walking past the camera. I thought perhaps there was a way to run the camera on the gate battery since it was right there.I bought this 12V/24V to 5V 3A USB Output, and this USB cable designed for BlinkXT https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F35YC9W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I ran the USB cable to the battery compartment and connected the 12v to 5v DC converter. It works perfectly! I am running the camera off of the gate battery, which is being recharged by the solar panel.

Works exactly as anticipated. I wired one off of the 12+ and NEG from a cigarette lighter socket and another from a spare fuse terminal in a second vehicle. The wires come pre tinned, but are a tad short where stripped/tinned. If you need to add a permanent USB charging location to a vehicle, this works perfectly.

I used this device to install a Bluetooth receiver behind my old Jeep glove-box. I also used a Y cable to power an FM modulator as well, so now my cell phone works through my old factory radio, music and voice calls. More effort is required to install this thing vs. a typical cigarette lighter dongle, but now everything is hidden out of sight and not hanging out of my dashboard. Also provides plenty of current for my needs (3A @ 5V).