HDMI Audio Extractor Converter to HDMI Optical SPDIF RCA L/R Stereo Analog Outputs Video Audio Splitter Support HDCP Digital DTS 5.1 PCM(NOT Support ARC)

Works fine, but you need some kind of “device” plugged into hdmi output otherwise windows won’t detect it as an audio output. I was hoping to just extract hdmi audio from another port on my gpu to go into a spdif port on my amp. If I plug in a “dummy” hdmi dongle it appears as an output and I can send windows audio to it. It’s not ideal as now I have a second “monitor “ that I sometimes lose my pointer on.

Just as advertised.

I bought this device to run sound from my laptop to my 5.1 surround sound system. I couldn’t get it to work, but that may be a driver issue with my laptop rather than a problem with this device. Wanted to share in case someone else tries to buy for this purpose.The reason I recommend you do not buy this device is because mine became buggy after a month, right after the return window of course… Curious to know what the bugs are?Well earlier this week, I connected the device as usual to my laptop, and got an error message on my TV in engrish stating something like “Not Service!”. So that’s strange.Also this week, audio would not connect through the device except after a laptop reboot.Today when I plugged it into my laptop, the mousepad on my laptop stopped working… After a reboot, the mouse cursor started jiggling back and forth really fast. Once I unplugged the device, the laptop was working fine.So something is definitely wrong with this thing. I really hope there isn’t some sort of insidious software loaded on this device that is now on my laptop. It’s just weird the bugs started happening right after the return window ended as well, and the type of bugs concern me.My recommendation is you do not buy this device.

This item is perfect for my needs. I have a projector that has 1 HDMI input and a small speaker. I mounted my projector, so I bought an HDMI splitter as well. If you see the photos. I connected the projector HDMI to the Output and I connected the HDMI splitter to the Input of this device. Also, since I wanted a better sound, I connected the optical cable from the device to my surround system and now I have great sound! You will need to provide power to this device via micro USB port. (Only USB cable included). If for some reason your display is acting up, just unplug the USB power cable and plug it back in. It should fix the issue of the display. The size is great and great value. It works as I intended to use is and the installation is self explainatory. (HDMI splitter is something I bought separate, since it prevents me from unplugging HDMI cables from my projector)

This device worked well for me.When attached to a Windows 11 PC, the list of PCM and surround sound modes it can handle are in the screenshots here. It can do up to 24-bit ,192KHz PCM, for those who are into "HiRes" digital audio.I was also able to use it to extract 24-bit, 192KHz PCM from the HDMI stream from a latest-gen. 4K Fire TV "Max" Stick, when playing "Ultra HD" music in the Amazon Music Unlimited app.Keep in mind, though, that DAC quality matters, and the DAC in this device, a "344C", which seems to be a VERY inexpensive clone of the Cirrus Logic CS4344, is likely not going to produce top-quality analog audio out of the 3.5mm stereo line-out jack on this extractor. I have not yet done any "critical listening" tests with the onboard DAC, but may do so, with the aid of a "Pure Class A" headphone amplifier, driving modded Sony MDR 7506 over-the-ear studio headphones.If you use a high-quality outboard DAC, fed by the optical Toslink output of this extractor, results should be better, to a (highly debatable) degree...The main chip is a GSV2001.This is a "1 In to 2 Out HDMI2.0 Repeater with Audio Extraction/Insertion", and extracts the 12S digital audio stream from the HDMI stream, and sends it to the onboard DAC, and also converts it to a S/PDIF bitstream for the Toslink optical output.The US32VF030A5 is:"is a microcontroller with an embedded 32-bit RISC-V core and ultra-low power consumption, low pin count and wide voltage operating range (3.0V~5.0V). It can run at up to 96MHz, has built-in 160K bytes of embedded Flash, 28K bytes of SRAM, and integrates ADC, RTC, multiple UARTs, SPI, I2C, PWM, IIS and other high-end peripheral interfaces. It has the characteristics of high integration, high anti-interference and high reliability."

The converter box itself works great, but the cords that came with it are bad. Initially I thought the box was busted as the video and audio kept cutting out every 5 to 10 seconds. After testing on multiple ports and getting the same issue, I finally tried a different HDMI cord I was using on another device and everything worked fine. The audio cord that came with it also has a bad bend in the red connector. Luckily I don't plan on using that cord. At least the USB power cord for it is working I guess? 1 out of 3 working cords isn't a good ratio though.Once up and running the converter works as intended. Just a bit disappointing I have to go buy another HDMI cable since I can't keep using the good one from the other device.