POR-15 Motorcycle Fuel Tank Repair Kit, Superior Strength and Fuel Resistance, Stop Rust, Corrosion and Seal Pinhole Leaks

did well by my bike👍🏻 picture just for funsies

Did an amazing job restoring my Vstar gas tank. Very happy with the receipts and how easy it was to complete the work. Will definitely buy again and recommend to friends.

I have a 1979 Yamaha XS750F that has been sitting in my garage for the better part of 30 years (though I did clean the carbs and ride it a bit in 2004). The gas tank had about a gallon of old gas in it (more like turpentine) and was caked with a hard layer of crude. After removing the crude and using the POR-15 treatment regime the inside of the tank now looks great.Some responders have stated that this product didn't work and that they followed the instructions in detail. However what they probably failed to do was get rid of that layer of of hard crude stuck to the inside of the tank first. You must remove this hard layer of crude first - and it is not an easy thing to do. First I power washed the inside of the tank. Then I added about a gallon of hot water and added a large cup full of nuts and washers and repeatedly shook and rolled the this mixture around the tank to break up the crude. I repeated this step over and over about 20+ times. I also used a wooden dowel to reach into the tank to break loose some of the crude. After this I filled the tank with 4.5 gallons of Metal Rescue and let it sit for over a week (this stuff also works great).Once I had the hard scaled crude removed from the tank I used the POR-15 treatment regime. I probably didn't need to do the degreaser/cleaner since I had just done the Metal Rescue soak but I did it anyway. The metal prep and final seal coat worked great. I have a tank that is like new again.PS: The dual vacuum petcocks on the tank were removed for this treatment and were replaced with a small steel plate and gasket. The petcocks were also caked with crude and required teardown and extensive cleaning (as did the carbs) - so if you don't have an ultrasonic cleaner I would add that to your shopping list as well.

I waited about a month before writing this review, just to test the product out and see if it would hold - which it did!It’s a meticulous process, but it provides great results if you follow the steps correctly.I used this kit on an old Yamaha XT tank and I’m very happy with the result.The first picture is of all the junk that came out of the tank when I flushed the cleaner/degreaser out. Second picture is the before and third picture is the after.Will definitely use again on other projects.

I first cleaned out my tank using vinegar and thought it did okay, but a friend recommended this so I figured better safe than sorry. The instructions say to seal up holes with duct tape which was a bad move. The cleaner immediately ate the adhesive off and leaked out before I could stop it. Since I’d already cleaned it once before I decided to move on to the next step which is the rust neutralizer. It seems to have done the trick better than water and baking soda. My tank isn’t very rust at all, just some surface rust on the inside so I haven’t used the sealant yet, I just went straight to filling the tank up with gas.Products seem to work, but instead of duct tape I’d recommend something a little more hardcore like the 3M automotive rubber adhesive, that did the trick for me.

Suzuki GS500. Previous owner let it sit for a couple years with a small amount of untreated gas in it. Varnish and rust everywhere. I flushed it with soapy dish water and used a hi-pressure nozzle on a garden hose to rinse it. Let it dry. Used the POR cleaner with a piece of chain in the tank to knock the rust loose...shake shake shake. Rinsed with warm-hottish water drained and then added the etching solution. Shake shake shake, then shake some more. Rinse with warm-hot and drain. Applied hair dryer for an hour on medium heat duct taped to the filler neck. Dried, and brought inside air cond and low humidity. Next day applied sealer after making sure that the tank was bone dry. They say avoid letting solution pooling. It wouldn't just run out the petcock hole so a wet vac with clear 3/8" rubber hose was used to suck out the excess. Clear hose allowed me to prevent sealer from entering wet vac innards. Wasn't the easiest procedure but do-able. Pay attention when they say "will ruin paint finish"!! I had a small spot that the sealer got on that now needs touch up. This stuff dries rock hard, and rather quickly. I made a plug made of scrap metal, and rubber using the bolts from the petcock filter to seal the tank while I was working with tank solutions. Duct tape is a bad idea. I completely covered the tank with blue 2" painter's tape, and then taped over that with duct tape. No stickey was stuck on the tank finish after I removed all the tape. Day four..waiting for it to be completely cured as per manufacturer's recommendation. I'm sure that it'll be fine. Rust gone, all shiney and coated inside.Afterthought... Make Sure Sealer is removed from threads on tank petcock! I almost missed it because the Q-tips didn't get it all out and the bolts were a bit harder to get back in but not seriously bad.