beduanBrass Electric Solenoid Valve, 3/4" 24V Air Valve Normally Colsed for Water Air Gas Fuel Oil

Works well well made no problems

Seems well made, holds air pressure well, and releases quick upon applying the 12V. My application is only for short quick releases of pressure, so no issue with the solenoid getting even warm.

I bought the first one in late April 2023 for a machine that had a valve in need of replacement sometime in the future. For various reasons, I didn't get to install it until late Jan. 2024. Installed it, turned it on for about 10 seconds and it worked fine. Turned it off for about 20 seconds and then turned it back on, and it didn't work. Tested the continuity of the coil and had none - the coil was toast.I wrote it off to 'Ya know, it happens. Sometimes a bad part comes off the line.'(I've done industrial maintenance and service work for over 35 years in manufacturing, I get it)I ordered another valve and put it on the day it arrived (today), didn't work at all. Continuity check of the coil showed it was toast right out of the box.Both valves were ordered and shipped as 220V AC coil valves, and before putting each on, I tested the voltage on the coil wiring. This ain't my first time hooking up something as simple as a solenoid valve, as a matter of fact, it doesn't even fall into the first several thousand times I've done it. But it IS my first time getting two brand new components (even Chinese made crap) that were bad right out of the box.I just dropped a little over $120 bucks on a non-Chinese 1/2" solenoid valve (hard to find), and I'll be returning this paperweight that has cost me immeasurable amounts of time, money, and pissed offedness.I hold my nose whenever I buy Chinese crap, but I used to think it was because they were trying the best they could in spite of their skewed economic incentives in the system, now I'm becoming increasingly convinced that they are doing this on purpose.

My valve came today and I hooked it up to a natural gas line. It was pretty straightforward. To connect it first take the screw off the little plastic relay cover, second pull the relay off the valve. Next using a small screwdriver slide it in the slot in the bottom of the relay cover and pop off the cover. Run your cord in the side of the cover through the connection hole. If you look at the bottom of the relay you will see three places to connect wires. Look at the bottom. The straight one has the "⏚" (ground) symbol. Your ground wire goes there. The other two are numbered, 1,2,3. Hook your white and black to 2 and 3, the order doesn't matter.Reassemble the whole thing and you're good to go.As of 20 minutes ago, the valve is working perfectly and is a great deal. Time will tell if it holds up, but so far, easy-peasy!

Does what it claims

this is just what i needed thanks

I'm giving this 3 stars. I got a new 80 gallon air 220 volt compressor that feeds the air lines in my workshop, which has some minor leaks. Turning the line valve off at the compressor allows it to maintain pressure for days or weeks, but leaving it open causes the tank to lose most of its pressure by morning. I got tired of manually turning the valve or forgetting to. Therefore, I got this 220v solenoid to automate that. Turn the compressor on and the solenoid activates and the air lines pressurize. Turn it off and the compressor retains pressure.Here's my issues:1 - The solenoid buzzes and gets hot. I get it, solenoids do that. But, I feel it could have been significantly reduced.2 - The wiring connector fits a 1/2" knockout hole. That connector broke off.3 - It leaks on the input side. Seems like this would be my issue, but I have attempted to fix it a couple times. The output side doesn't leak. I don't have any other leaks near the solenoid. This isn't rocket science. This completely defeats the purpose of the solenoid.

This is verifiably a direct acting solenoid valve, meaning that all movement of the diaphragm is from the energized coil itself. It does NOT require a minimum operating pressure to fully open, which is a much more common design to find. However, that capability comes at a price: operation requires a very powerful coil. But powerful coils draw high CURRENTS and cannot sustain that full current for more than very short periods without OVERHEATING. If your application only requires that the valve be energized for 5 seconds every few minutes and NO MORE, you'll probably be fine using it as-is. Otherwise this MUST be driven using some form of active current/voltage control, i.e. PWM.The resistance of the coil for the 1/2" 12 VDC version measures 5.5 ohms, drawing just over two amps at 12 volts, dissipating 26 watts of heat, which is quite a lot in such a small space. The secret to success is understanding that full power is only needed for a brief time to initially open the valve but a MUCH smaller current will HOLD the valve open. In my case I've got an Arduino Mega driving an H-bridge motor controller that actually powers the coil. To open, full current is supplied for about 100 milliseconds after which it drops to a fraction of that by switching to PWM with around a 30% duty cycle to maintainin the open position. Using this scheme I've yet to have a failure to open or to stay open and the body of the valve never goes above ambient even after hours of being powered.The only other things to be aware of are that it makes a VERY loud click when activated and the threads are NOT NPT, they are not tapered - so expect to use a LOT of sealing tape if using conventional pipe fittings.