UniTak3D Ender 3 Heatbreak 4.1 Bore Titanium Alloy and Copper Throat Nozzle for Ender 3 V2,Ender 3 Pro,CR10 Series 3D Printer Hotend (Pack of 2Pcs)

Got this to upgrade an ender 3 s1 sprite extruded from the stock heat break to this all metal heat break, I haven’t had any issues with clogs and it’s been working flawlessly, however like many other people stated, I wish there was a way to use a spammer or some sort of tool to tighten to prevent gouging it with pliers trying to tighten it. Overall great product!

This product has helped improve the quality of my prints. Fits the stock Ender hotend almost perfectly. I just wish there were more flat surfaces to lock it to the heat break.

The heat break I've installed seems to be working very good. I've printed at least 18 hours of PETG and 30 plus of PLA and it has been working great.Installation was a little bit tricky on my CR-10 V3. You need to have it screwed into the heat block deep enough that the heat sink end of the heat break just bottoms out in the heatsink when the two small screws in the heat block are tighten into the bottom of the heatsink, you will understand if you've had the hot end apart for the V2 or V3. I found with it all together my nozzle had a couple more threads exposed than the stock installation. On the V3 you will need to do a little bit of trial and error to get the stub of PTFE tube to fit correctly. You want it so it is snug between the extruder and the heat break but not so tight that it compressed.If you have problems with clogging, try reducing your retraction a bit. If retraction pulls the filament back past the heat break it will tend to jam when extruder tries to restart printing.

I don't know if the seller understands how this works but this simply can NOT work with an Anycubic Mega S as described!1) There is a definite divide between the two metals inside the tube. This NORMALLY would not be an issue as the Boden Tube runs through this - NORMALLY.2) There is a definite ledge right at the opening that stops the Bowden Tube from going in to the throat. The issue with this is, the Bowden Tube is NOT the same size as the throat allowing major play right there where it matters. The Filament can not easily go into the throat. It's threading a needle blind! You hit the ledge repeatedly.3) Retracted filament are usually tipped in a blob or nodule when it comes out of the extruder body. This INSTANTLY gets stuck in the throat now because the slight break between the two metals, the break between the loose Bowden Tube at the copper opening that can shift in any direction at will.This simply can not work with a Mega S without tons of trouble.In addition. One of the tubes has a bur in it. That's when I noticed the split in the throat between the two metals. I didn't even think about the ledge until I started to put it all back together. I swapped it out with the other and noticed it had a slightly smaller gap and the tube was more rough than the first.After putting it all together to at least give it a try - I realize what's going on. I continued... My filament will not feed naturally from start as it would any other time. Trying to feed it by hand was 100x worse. Frustrated at that point, I spent another while taking it all back apart and putting my original throat back in place.

Installation was easy, i removed the old PTFE heat break and then slotted this one first into the cooling block by covering the copper side with Hydronaut thermal paste and then screwing in the whole assembly into the heating block, it does go in a bit into the heat block but i have had no issues with it and for the past few weeks with it, no heat creep issues, I was able to attain a high extruding rate with this heat break because i could pump the temperature up printing overture PETG at 100mm/s I definitely recommend this over an overpriced heat break from something like slice engineering because this is performing very nicely!

Installed one of these on a Ender 3 V2 and it works well, converted my printer to direct drive in the process.

These were run on a pair of ender 3 v2 machines as a test. As for performance, they worked well and I’ve run into essentially no issues with prints besides needing to lower my retraction distance. Now the bad news: these things are not sturdy at lower temps. The heat block can be physically rotated while installed leading to misalignment and wobble over time. I’m not sure what the issue is here but it seems like some sizes are off or the bonding process is ineffective. I’ve not had any fall apart, but certainly not as solid as I’d hoped for them to be.

The stock MK8 hot end(ender 3, ender 5, Voxelab Aquila) has a heat break that let's the PTFE(teflon) tubing touch the nozzle. This is not good as higher temperatures means possible health risks when PTFE off gases PFOA and other toxins. The design can also lead to print quality issues. This heat break is a drop in replacement for the MK8 and alleviates those issues. I have a video dedicated to this issue as well as the replacement of this part on YouTube (printsLeo3D - Print High Temperatures). I have printed materials from PLA to ABS, ranging in temperatures from 195c - 260c, and have had no issues thus far. The copper coating is screwed onto the internal titanium core.

Con questo heatbreak è possibile utilizzare filamenti caricati con materiali abrasivi e ad alte temperature, avendo l'anima in titanio molto resistente, ma che al contempo riduce molto la conduzione di calore verso il filamento e ciò si traduce in un flusso minore.Ad esempio, con un E3D V6 e blocchetto standard con cartuccia da 50W, con PLA a 200°, il flusso massimo si riduce a circa 8-10 mm^3/s.Pertanto, per avere un flusso maggiore e non dover semplicemente aumentare la temperatura, per poi avere altre problematiche, è consigliato usare un blocchetto riscaldante più voluminoso come il blocchetto Volcano o Hotend ad alto flusso compatibili con questo heatbreak per E3D V6 e cloni.Al contempo viene garantita una buona dissipazione al di sopra del taglio termico dato che la parte in titanio è racchiusa da una componente in rame che conduce bene verso la parte dissipante dell'hotend evitando clog con retrazioni elevate come nei sistemi bowden.Una pecca di questo heatbreak è l'incremento della lunghezza totale che fa abbassare il nozzle di pochi mm, e la procedura di smontaggio in quanto, anche se la parte in rame è sagomata per essere svitata con una chiave, può capitare che, dopo un lungo utilizzo, l'anima in titanio rimanga attaccata al blocchetto e per svitarla si rischia di rovinare quella filettatura che va ad avvitarsi alla parte in rame.

Die Heatbreakes die ich bekommen habe, hatten scheinbar Produktionsfehler.Filament kam nicht durch da die Bohrung da diese zu klein ist, und beim fest ziehen der Düse mit 5nm Drehmoment, ist wie auf dem Bild zu sehen dieser Teil weg gerissen.Jedoch wurde mir vom freundlichen Verkäufer die volle Kauf Summe erstattet und mein Fehler Report an die Produktion weiter geleitet.5 Sterne für den guten Kunden Service, Minus einen Stern für die Fehlerhafte Ware

Ho sempre utilizzato heatbreak all-metal in acciaio, ma negli ultimi tempi avevo frequenti episodi di clogging (in gergo "heat creep"), soprattutto con il PETG; avevo provato a tornare ai vecchi heatbreak con anima in PTFE, ma senza successo.Un mio collega mi ha parlato di questi heatbreak bimetallici e, nonostante il prezzo non economicissimo (6€ al pezzo), ho deciso di provarli.Si presentano ben rifiniti e senza sbavature di lavorazione, il passaggio interno è molto lucido, sembra quasi lappato, ed ha un diametro di soli 1.9mm, a differenza degli all-metal standard in acciaio il cui diametro interno è generalmente di 2mm: questa particolarità rende più preciso lo scorrimento del filamento, limitando ulteriormente fusioni indesiderate all'interno della gola.Ma il vero vantaggio secondo me risiede nella maggior distanza tra l'heater block ed il dissipatore: la presenza del dado nella parte in rame, oltre a facilitare il serraggio nel dissipatore, permette di aggiungere ulteriori 1,5mm di distanza tra il blocco scaldante ed il dissipatore, aumentando il cuscinetto d'aria tra i 2 componenti e facilitando il lavoro del dissipatore: la foto comparativa tra un heatbreak standard in acciaio e questo bimetallico evidenzia questa differenza.Inoltre, questa maggior distanza mi ha permesso di inserire tra heater block e dissipatore un sottile strato di isolante in fibra di ceramica, migliorando ulteriormente il salto termico tra i 2 componenti.Ho montato questo heatbreak su uno 0.4 ed ho provato ad rifare le stampe su cui avevo problemi di clogging, e devo dire che effettivamente stavolta non ho avuto nessun problema; il prossimo passo sarà moltarlo sullo 0.2, che col PETG è quasi inutilizzabile, e vedere come va.Riassumendo, sono ben realizzati e sembrano funzionare bene: 5 stelle meritate, nonostante il prezzo non proprio "concorrenziale".

Le produit est de bonne qualité mais son prix est malgré tout relativement élevé, ceci dit il m'a bien dépanné grâce à sa livraison rapide.

Bonne qualité de materiaux et maitrise des cotes. Prix bien. Attention cependant car le diametre du corps est de 7mm et donc pas compatible avec toutes les imprimantes 3D (CR 6 SE a du 6mm p. ex.)