BernzomaticAL3 Aluminum Brazing/Welding Rods with 12-Inch Rods of Working Temperature 720-750 Degrees, 2-Piece

used to repair a flawed by design hot end on my 3d printer. its been holding up at 263c without issue so far. i know its not what its for but it works and works well.

used this to braze some aluminum pieces together. worked very well however it does take practice and patience. My tig skills are not the best but I can solder so thought to give this a try. very satisfied with this product. I found that it does take a lot of heat on the metal to get it going, and like other reviews have said its necessary to heat the metal and melt the rod into it. It does help to use a tig tungsten to direct the puddle as it does not flow to rapidly which is actually good as it helps fill holes. Best procedure is to get the parts as hot as you can and use the rod very sparingly. this will give the best flow and get just enough rod around the parts to form a nice bead which then requires less clean up. then wait a while for everything to cool down. I had to remind myself several times that welding gloves are not tongs.

I have a 2004 Nissan Altima. The bolts that's control the rear wheel alignment run through bushings and they rusted in place over time. One of the bolts that I had to cut off was at the top of the knuckle where the bottom of the rear shock mounts. It was dark, and I was stupid, and continued. You know the rest, I cut into the knuckle a bit.After pressing the bushing out, I thought about ways to repair the damage I had done. JB Weld was on the top of the list, but I thought it'll be more effective to use a quasi welding method. I came across these Al brazing rods and thought I'd give them a try.They didn't work for me, but that doesn't mean they can't work for you. To use these rods effectively, you have to treat them like solder. The base material has to be hot enough to melt and flow the Al. I wasn't able to do that simply based on my heating materials (MAPP torch) that I had available as well as the mass I had to heat. The torch just couldn't heat the knuckle to the brazing rod's working temperature (flow) point, which is around 725F. Other than that, I could see these 100% working well. I was able to make them a flow and work very well on smaller, practice items.So, before you discount these as an option to your repair, think about what you're trying to do and if you have enough heat to get to that working temperature. They will work if you do.

Tried to repair a microchannel condenser coil. Used Mapp gas and the stuff would flow out and stick but it would not seal. Looks like it would work for mechanical parts but for gas pressure.Concerning heat, propane torch will work on thin stuff, Mapp gas on thicker stuff, and I have had to use acetylene on really thick aluminim.

Works really well for what it is. I used this to repair a puncture hole on an older aluminum bicycle frame, and I was initially having issues using a smaller torch, I couldn't get the product to melt on the frame. I picked up a bigger handheld blow torch from Harbor Freight, still using regular green tank propane and was working within minutes. The sticks are fairly easy to work with, as long as you don't let it run and don't apply heat directly to the stick. I have some welding experience from working in a steel yard, but none in brazing or aluminum welding and this product was very easy to use for a first time user. I just watched a few YouTube videos and dove right in. I was able to span a hole almost an inch in diameter by using a circular technique, and I built up the product enough to where I was able to grind and sand it smooth afterwards. I just had to be careful of overheating the existing product I had laid down as I was building it up, or else it would run or drip. The size of the torch was really paramount, as was heating the area surrounding your work. You would never have known there was a big puncture hole in my bike frame at one point, unless you stripped the paint off and saw the difference in colors of aluminum. Highly recommended for small repairs, and saved me from going to an aluminum welder or bike repair shop.

I come from a sheet metal, iron work, welding background. Did some copper brazing with the HVAC service guys with my company back in the day. Also never welded aluminum, always heard it was difficult as it doesn't change color when hot, usually just disintegrates.Had an issue where the welded hinge on my fence broke, likely due to overheat from the weld. Well, haven't welded in over 20 years and don't own the machines anymore, so I looked this up and watched a youtube vid about it. Well the guy was right, just need to wire wheel the oxide off and it's ready to braze. The guy said you can use propane, and here's where I disagree. Sat there 10 minutes heating the thing, still couldn't get it hot enough. Used a benzomatic mapp/oxy kit and did a great job. I added a pic for your review, the area brazed is to the left of the weld, so I did not get a before pick, but you'd be impressed of the difference as the whole thing was cracked and broke off. So I am a beleiver and will buy again if I have any aluminum work in the future.

Not working, rolls right off the cast Iron, with or without flux. Title should be for aluminum only. Tried may ways to with all different Youtub instruction but the tin melts just roll right off the metal. Yes, I did prepped the surface. Not to be use with cast iron, description misleading. Too bad I only have half of rod left so I can't return it.

Had a crack on the chain stay of my bike and I couldn't find any shop to repair it (Reasonably)So I decided to just do it myself.I used my plumbing acetylene torch and it worked like a charm! Actually didn't even need that much heat. Probably could use a small handheld propane torch.I'm very happy with this product.I'm no pro but I fixed the crack and I'm confident in the joint.