Motorcraft - Module - Ignition (P) (DY1284)

I too was disappointed to see these new Motorcraft modules no longer have the word Motorcraft cast into it in large letters. I don't know if Ford makes this module, or they farm it out. But even if they do farm it out, Ford has standards about the quality of what they buy. I figure it's a better shot than knowing you're buying cheap Chinese modules.One problem is the module paste some are using. Modules get REALLY hot, and Ford decided to use the distributor as a heat sync (something they were sued over due to premature module failure, and they changed in 1994 to remote mount in Mustangs). The back side of this module is metal, and the distributor is the main ignition ground point. To make sure there is full transfer of heat, a thin amount of Thermal Transfer Compound (module grease) is used to fill in any voids between the metal plate and the distributor. DO NOT USE DIELECTRIC GREASE. I think even Ford made the mistake of saying that in some documents. USE THERMAL TRANSFER PASTE, called module grease in Auto Parts stores. If the parts guy hands you a packet of dielectric grease, educate him swiftly with a stick.This is the same type of paste used in home computers, to mount the Processor on the Motherboard. Computer guys have high performance versions of this stuff that does a better job of transferring the heat than regular stuff. Artic Silver is one brand of high performance paste. Originally, I bought some Ceramique II paste (cermamic), because it didn't conduct electricity and yet improved thermal transfer. But I'm second guessing myself now that I realize (and tested) that the distributor is the Ignition Ground, and that ground is sent thru the module body, out the module wiring connector, to the PCM. It's also used to ground the coil when the coil is to be charged and fired.The two module bolts touch this metal plate and connect the plate to the distributor anyway, but I now think that maybe Ceramique II wasn't the best choice, and regular metallic-based Artic Silver would have been a better choice since we actually want to improve electrical transfer (and heat transfer) from the module to the distributor housing.Before replacing the module and wondering why your car still don't start, you must test the PIP sensor in the distributor. Here's how: Use an LED test light hooked to battery positive. Backprobe the top wire on the ignition module connector, and touch the tip of the test light to the backprobe. Have someone crank the engine over while watching the test light. If it blinks while cranking, the PIP sensor is good. If it don't, it's bad... assuming the power and ground wires are both giving the module what it needs to function. If the module is good and power/grounds are ok, hook the test light to battery negative and hook up a spark tester to the coil wire. Touch the tip of the backprobe (inserted into the top wire of the module) with the test light. That should make the fuel pump run, an injector fire, and the coil spark once.UPDATE: I tested an original 1986 Tbird V6 module that was good, and this module that was an updated part number for that car using my Picoscope, and found something interesting. The original module current limited the ignition coil once the coil was fully saturated, by increasing the ground voltage up to 8 volts (so 4 volts left between 12v power wire and 8v ground wire). This new module does not current limit the coil, and holds a steady 0 volts the entire time it turns the coil on.While this is probably just fine, and not a sign of a problem with either module, it does show that the design is not exactly as the original module was. Whether this is an improvement or not, I do not know. Just know that if you are into scoping modules for diagnostics, the original design current limits the coil, and this new design does not.

After two weeks worth of man hours and replacing the ignition control module 3 times and the distributor complete with a fourth module all purchased from a local auto parts store we found this OEM part on Amazon. The after market modules consistently produced an inconsistent ignition pulse. This OEM module solved the problem!

Working well so far. Seems to be a real motorcraft part which is nice.

I recently installed a rebuilt engine in my Fox Body and replaced most of the engine sensors/electronics (including this TFI module) at the same time so I was starting with all fresh components. About 50 miles after getting the car back together, it started randomly stalling with no warning, even when the engine wasn't hot - the tach would drop to zero and sometimes the engine would restart immediately when I cranked it, sometimes it required turning the key off and back on.I checked the codes in the computer and found I had one (18) related to the TFI module. I followed the diagnostic steps to check the wiring and other components, and the whole time never suspected the TFI module was a problem since it was new. I did not replace the PIP sensor inside the distributor, so by process of elimination that had to be the problem. So I replaced the PIP sensor in my own distributor with a brand new Motorcraft unit and.... same stalling problem. At this point the TFI module was basically the only possible source of the problem, so I swapped my old one (nothing wrong with it) back on, and voila, stalling problems solved.I, like other reviewers here, had some concerns when the module I received looked suspiciously like an aftermarket unit (no Motorcraft markings), but it came in a Motorcraft box and had Ford part numbers on it so I ran with it. The common consensus was that the OE Ford modules were way better quality than aftermarket units, but that may no longer be the case. Unfortunately my purchase is now outside of the return period, so I'm stuck with a bad module and uncertainty of where I can buy a decent one anymore.

Works great as a replacement for a bad TFI unit for a 1989 Ford Mustang. Wish these were molded in black as opposed to the ugly grey they are made in. Definitely would look nicer and less obstrusive in appearance. Please make them in black!! looks as though it may be a generic TFI packaged in a Motorcraft box, but who knows. It does work as intended though.

UPDATE: as of Sept 8th...How Ironic, 1 year after buying this ignition module that worked perfect has now left me stranded AGAIN...Beware..this IS NOT A TRUE MOTORCRAFT PART...It comes in a Motorcraft box that's it...this is a FAKE Motorcraft part. although it will work, this only lasted 367 days...1 year and 2 days...what a joke...I should've known better..my original part has MOTORCRAFT embossed on the outside edge, legible to the point of reading it when its installed, this one did not say Motorcraft anywhere on it, when it failed, the van runs like its running out of gas, or it runs ok when the engine is cold, after its been running a few hours, it stumbles and stalls, just like you turned the key off, or its running out of gas...you may as well buy the part at your local parts dealer, but at $60 a pop, thats a big hit every year...1 year and 2 days, thats what i got out of this FAKE Motorcraft part...the only thing authentic was the box and part number on the box...

Is was in a Motorcraft box with the Motorcraft part number on it. I had an aftermarket one that lasted about a year. This one should last as long as the original. Motorcraft parts are the only way to go with old Fords. Of course it fit perfect and my truck fired up instantly and runs a lot smoother than it ever did with the other one.

Good part