RocwooDRocwooD Jockey Wheel Motorised Forward Reverse Trailer Mover Jack 12V 550W Boat Caravan Maximum 2722KG Load Motor Electric Power Heavy Duty Solid Rubber Wheel

Use for moving a mobile sawmill around which is 1100kgs. Up low inclines (prob 7degrees as in the spec).Doesn't work on loose or slippery ground, but didn't expect it to, so use plyboard to cover those spots which works fine. Slow and steady.No idea if the fitting is standard, but didn't fit the same jockey wheel clamp holes that are on the knott trailer bar, so mounted this in addition to the existing jockey wheel.Is a ribbed shaft on the jockey wheel - which is good, non-slip.Battery terminals are flat washer types so pretty useless for any UK car batteries. I cut those off and fixed detachtable terminal clips (from Halfords £7) which work a treat.

Well the bottom line is, it works. However there's a lot to think through carefully to get the best out of it.This is basically a clone of a Mini Mover Gen2, and much cheaper.I have a 2 axle trailer with 700kg car loaded on, to move around a 90 degree bend round the house. To easily move it requires raising the front using it's primary jockey wheel, so it sits on 1 axle and can then be rotated on the spot.I didn't even bother attempting to use the clamp that comes with it - as others have said, it will be useless unless you want to pull small trailers/light loads around. I bought a Maypole 48mm hinged clamp, and even that wasn't good enough, as you can see from the pic. I think there's a solution, which i'll get to below.the other problem is - unless your A frame of the trailer happens to be quite high and you're hitching to quite a high towbar (though why would you be as the height is controlled by regulation).....you cannot lift the wheel high enough before hitching to the towbar. Wind it back up as far as it'll go, and it'll still be touching the ground. So for me to hitch onto my car....i have to remove the wheel prior to hitching.so there's only 2 options......1. Remove and reinstall everytime you need to use it. 2. Buy a rotating swivel clamp that allows you to rotate it around 90 degrees - which i bought from HK Trailers, £14.99 (google JOckey wheel swivel bracket)If you choose option 2, you're then confronted with another problem. The motor/clutch which sticks out either side of the jockey wheel will hit the trailer chassis, when swivelling up...as i found out. So then you either have to modify the swivel clamp by drilling 2 holes either side of the swivel point, that's at around 60-70 degrees.That means you have to keep your original jockey wheel in place mounted in the centre, so that once you've made the move and lined it up with your towbar, you can raise the height once again, remove the motor jockey wheel, and lower back down to your towbar with your primary jockey wheel!Alternatively - you could potentially replace your primary jockey wheel with this one, but i couldn't do that easily with my trailer, and even then, i wouldn't be able to get it low enough to hitch.So i've reverted back to option 1 - its easier to simply remove it and refit with a quick-release clamp whenever i need to use it, and stick the wheel into my car boot when ready to mount. SO the question then is - what clamp?As you can see, the Maypole 48mm one i bought half worked but ended up bending so the wheel was at an angle. This means you don't get enough purchase between wheel and road and the wheel will just spin, so you have to raise the height of the wheel to put more weight on it to dig into the ground. Anyway point is, it's not good enough.That means you need to find a solid, strong clamp, with a hinge and handle - luckily there is just a device: google for "Kartt 48mm jockey wheel clamp hinged". It's for ribbed jockey wheels exactly like this one, and i'm 90% confident this will work. I'm sure if i bolt this directly to the trailer chassis, i won't have any issues.Once you've sorted all of that out........it will work well. It moved the trailer loaded with my car on my tarmac drive with ease, hence 4 stars.It just requires some thought, time and effort put in by yourself to make it 5 stars.......so give yourself 1 star.Other things to note:- yes the yellow side is a clutch that allows you to engage/disengage the wheel so you can move freely without having to activate it.- it's designed so that you can pull the handle sideways, this allows you to continue steering without the handle hitting the trailer chassis and blocking you from tighter steering radius'. Useful.- battery cable was just about long enough for me but you may have to get some lengths of 12v battery cable to extend it, i bought some 10mm2 cross section, 70amp rated hi-flex red/black battery cable which in the end, i didn't need. The cable it comes with is a smaller cross-section, i guess there isn't as much Amps running through as you'd think, given the power output of the motor.

Strong and effective

I’ve been asked to redo the poor review I submitted after they stuffed me on the refund of £100.00 but I am expected to roll over and tell everyone how amazing the service has been the product has been etc etc… so here I go . Bought this and had fitted , started the motor to move the trailer watched it crawl , it crawled slower than a snail being chased by a large tub of slat and a hammer so purity fast …NOT .. slow is understatement, to add to this entertainment we what he’d it bend then bend more and more until we stopped,it was at the point of breaking as it dragged sorry butt along,, then we looked at each other and pulled the trailer one handed it flew up the flat street into the bay , so I guess the review is simple .It’s pants don’t buy , well unless you want to lose the plot on the time takes to move or the bending that may break smack you in the face , or happy to take a £100.00 and lose it . So yea I think I’ve re reviewed my reviewIt still pants

Great power unit. Coped with a long pull well on Alko twin axle sales unit.Pointless flimsy bracket for given weight limit. Used existing Alko bracket but Rockwood jockeyshaft is 2mm too large on ridges to fully engage and left it at full extension but it coped well even at the angle.

On the level is fine but not sure where they at the 7% gradient from.. Can’t make it up the drop kerb to get on my drive. Mounting bracket was bent completely out of shape after two use’s!

I bought the motor mover to enable me to get my caravan in and out of my garage.It is a cheaper option than having a bonafied mover fitted.The instructions state that it can be mounted using the existing jockey wheel mount, so thats what i used initially.After fitting, I realised that the bar wouldn't clear the end of the A frame, which in turn reduces maneuvering, and defeats the the objective.Maybe a removable extension could be part of the kit.Once I'd adapted the bar, by extending it to clear the A frame, connected it to the existing jockey wheel mount, it did a great job in maneuvering the caravan.My caravan is a Trigano Rubis 310, so the motor mover had no problem shifting it.Additional weight may need to placed on the wheel to prevent slip.Now, I assumed, that I would be able to tow the caravan with the mover in place.I can't because the ground clearance, or lack of it, is a major concern.So it has to be removed, before towing.I've now fitted the mover with the supplied mount because the original mount is still required.Its not as practical as I'd hope.

The media could not be loaded. I've used this to motorise one of our winding stands as it seemed like the easiest option. we've manufactured a mounting bracket and I've all the parts to make it a remote control setup via a 12v DC power supply with built in battery charger capabilities