Diamond Powder 50,000 Grit, 0-0.5microns - 25 Cts. = 5 Grammes

Arrived promptly and works well as a polishing agent.

The diamond powder is not diamond powder it is like diamond powder but what it really is I think is a secret, I was hopeing for diamond powder for faceting ,polishing , but because I do not know what this is I will not be using it It was a scam and not what I asked for , I did not ask for a substitute for diamond powder. Yes I am not happy with this product.

This TechDiamondTools diamond powder works great on a balsa lap (I use Sig 3/8" hard balsa 3" wide) and on leather (kangaroo is best for finishing strops) I have 3 grits set up on balsa and roo leather, it covers my Pfeil woodcarving chisels and knives as well as working great on any good knife or blade. Clear, soft pine from the home center works OK in a pinch too! (you can pay for the powder by saving your used Xacto blades - they will sharpen right up better than new) The balsa works great for making dedicated contours for gouges and V-tools. Use a bit of mineral oil to encourage adhesion and add a knife tip of diamond powder to the lap and work in by using the strop or lap, then add a spritz of mineral oil (50% thinner, 50% oil -- acetone or lacquer thinner) in a pump sprayer makes application easier, but a few drops of the mineral oil spread over the powdered surface with a fingertip after working the powder in by using it for a blade or 2 does the job as well. I use .5 - 1um (50,000) for finishing/fine work, 6 - 12um (1500) for general and edge maintenance work and 38 -45um (325) for roughing/repair work. I do believe the fine powder I'm using is a bit too fine, it works great, but is probably slower than a slightly coarser grit would be. If you only are going to use one grit, the 6-12um would be the pick for most sharpening, on cowhide will work great for most jobs, just use light pressure to avoid compression of the leather and 'hooking' the blade edge. Kangaroo leather is harder and has a tighter face (no sweat glands I understand is the reason) which helps prevent the leather from compressing which cause it the wrap around the edge, causing it to deflect. In my experience the roo leather is better, but pretty expensive. Good bovine leather works great, just be mindful of how much pressure you use during final strokes. This powder has proven to be great stuff and goes along way (I'm generous with it, and for these prices, you can afford to be). It' much cheaper than all the diamond sprays and you end up with a lot more diamond on your strop. I haven't tried it yet, but I believe you could add it to the 50% oil spray and it would work well, just shake hard before using. I think commercial sprays are nothing but water with a dash of diamond powder, so you could try that too. One last tip, this system puts a great final polish on your carbide lathe tools (great for HSS too!), you can get a mirror polish on them if you wish to, and it pays off in the ease with which they cut and the surface finish produced. Remember to polish the top as well as the flank side. Rough grind the carbide to shape with a resinoid or plated diamond wheel, then work through the grits of diamond powder to produce a "super cutter" for your lathe (or mill). Sharpening hobbyists will love this powder - Happy sharpening guys!

The product is good, does what it is supposed to and seems like it is the proper grit size. Shipping could have been faster.

nice powder,

Pour polir des pierres