Muzata 30 Pack 1/8" Cable Railing Hardware Kit Swage Lag Screws Left and Right Handed Thread for Wood Post T316 Stainless Steel Deck Cable Railing System 15 Pairs CK17

what a slick system!

For drilling.. I got a 2x4 and cut it to the same size length as my 4x4 posts. I measured every 3.5 inches and made myself a guide. I also just adjusted for the offset since my 2x4 isn’t the same width as a 4x4 and pushed it to one side every time so everything lined up.. I would say make sure all your holes are perfectly straight when you drill and you won’t have a problem. I did buy a longer drill bit than what came with it. This allowed me to drill all the way through my 4x4s.This worked perfect for what I needed. Everything tightens up nicely. Start in the middle and go out one by one.. someone said to skip every other one to use tools easier and I think that just makes for alot of extra tightening in the end.. don’t be afraid to crank on them to get them tight. I will say I double crimped each one… takes an extra second to do it per one so why not…I also made a little wire baby gate and these worked great for that.Hydraulic crumper worked great. I would say that or a bolt cutter will work. Anything less you’re not gonna have a fun time.

Getting the hang of measuring and crimping so they’ll all look the same took a bit but overall very nice looking.

Great product! Arrived un damaged. Looks great. Don’t full with using the supplied drill bit. Has to be the most dull bit I’ve ever tried to use

We got to redo our two decks for lower cost than if we bought pre assembled deck railings. And for the cost, the quality & look is AMAZING! It is very durable, easy installation, and is very functional! The value you get for your money is worth it! We got a high quality, expensive looking deck railings for cheaper. Easy DIY

Great inexpensive railing system. A couple of notes to help installation.1. Make a template to mark your holes on a piece of scrap board. I used 1x4 clamped on the post tight to the top railing to ensure any difference was on the bottom. Drilled holes in it and use it to mark my holes on the post, then drilled the holes with the Muzaka guide block (https://smile.amazon.com/Muzata-Installation-Horizontal-Drilling-Template/dp/B083Q8K2N5/)2. After predrilling, use your drill to thread all the lags into the post with 2 threads showing, then measure and cut your cable. Note how deep it goes. I was able to just pull a 25 foot run of cable hand tight and get the crimp started. Hand snug meant about 1.5 turns on each side to get the tension right. I put in all the lags and then did each of the cables.3. The included wrench is soft aluminum garbage. You might be able to finish the job with it, but I couldn't. I used a piece of 3/4 flat bar cut to about 3 inches and took a grinder to drill a slot out of it. Worked like a charm for everything else.4. If you have to go through posts, get a 3/16 drill bit long enough to go all the way through. Use the guide block and everything else you can do to make sure you are level and straight. Then redrill for the protectors if you will use those (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07174JGTR)For the price of these pieces, you can buy the crimper and cutter from Muzata (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08L569CWK) along with a grinder, cut-off wheel and flat bar and still save many hundreds of dollars over other solutions.

This is the 4th deck I have done with wire rails and painted pressure treated 4x4's. The ends work very well and the wire rails allows a clear view out from the deck. Yes there are some nicer looking systems but they are hugely expensive. A very good quality product for a good price. Buy a cheap crimper, some wire, and the ends and you can do a deck rail in a matter of a few hours. Very easy learning curve--you don't need to worry if this will come out looking good. I used Muzata wire as well as it is very reasonably priced and readily available.

Fantastic value and build. After watching a few Youtube install vids, I found these to be fairly straightforward. I crimped with bolt-cutters and IMO, the look is great. Sure, a flatter crimp may look better but who's inspecting at that level. These sleeves are pretty thin and streamlined. And for the record, a bolt cutter crimp will hold! I miss-measured my 1st cable and thought maybe I could hammer out the crimp. No way! I tried everything and that cable was not coming out. Since I had limited cable, I wound up taking a Dremel with a cutting disc and dissecting the sleeve to get the cable out. These things are bullet proof. Next time I'll just have extra cable! Anyway ... the only thing I wish the manufacturer supplied (besides wrench) would be a chart for how to measure cable length based on span & stretch. It was a bit of trial and error but I nailed it on the 2nd one. For a 12ft span, I trimmed my cable by 1.25". That allowed my screws so penetrate the post with zero thread showing and piano-string tight. Lastly, one YouTuber had a great tip. If you have 7 runs of cable to do. Do every other one first so you'll have more room to tighten the bolts without hitting the run above and below. And most importantly, pre-drill the holes with your swage screws mounted in the drill. Run it in and out a few times so the tensioning process is smoother! You'll be happy you did.