GE WB30T10133 Genuine OEM 9" Radiant Dual Surface Element for GE Electric Range

This replacement has fixed my stove burner. It looks to be the same as the original manufacturer's burner. The bad burner kept pulsating on and off and finally stopped heating. After taking it out to replace it, the old burner testing showed the thermostat was not working. Coils tested good with the Ohm meter, but the thermostat was still at infinity. The new one worked great after I installed it. Make sure to take a photo of the wire connections to remind you how to reattach them. Cost savings is a bonus with this quality replacement. The shipper's packing was very good and protected the ceramic piece.

This review is for: "GE WB30T10133 Radiant Element for Stove."Amazon's service was amazing as it almost always is. The original part made by GE arrived quickly, was extremely carefully packaged and in perfect condition. I looked at some instructions online and was able to replace the burner under the induction top in just a few minutes. This purchase made the repair much more cost and time effective than calling a service person. However, it is well worth having a service person come over if you are not comfortable doing things yourself.Thought I'd share a few pointers in the hope that it helps others:1) Make sure that you carefully go over directions, including ALL guidance that concerns SAFETY issues, because you will be working with an electrical system. This includes, but is not limited to, unplugging the burner and turning off all relevant circuit breakers before you start working on the stove.2) Before you unhook your old burner, make sure that the new one has the same connections and make note of which connection goes where.3) It seems that different models may have slightly different clamps/hooks that hold the burner close to the under side of the glass cooking surface. Mine were a bit tricky to remove. Just note that if installed correctly, there is a small spike on the clamp that goes into a small hole on the burner. You need to disengage that spike before you can take the old burner off.4) The insulation and element of the burner appear to be extremely delicate. Handle with care, so that your new burner does not die before it has a chance to produce heat and light!5) Be careful not to tear or disrupt the thick layer of insulation material that sits under all the burners. That's easy to do if you're not paying attention.I'll revise this review if needed, or if I remember something that I did that I have not included here.Overall, this repair was easier and faster than I'd imagined. I hope that you safely have the same experience as I did.All the best!

My wife likes to use one specific burner on our stove, so it burned out. Did a little research on what to buy and how to put it in and then went searching on Amazon for the part. This one was a perfect fit, relatively easy to install and works absolutely perfect. Can't even tell the difference. Highly recommended especially for the price.

Has worked fine for about two years so far. Had a problem with it not functioning, but it turned out that the wire connector had rusted/corroded and fell off the element. I cut and crimped a new connector to the existing wire. Take the time to open it up and double check the connections before just assuming that the replacement unit went bad!

From the man of the house. We have a $750 GE Range. This is the 2nd time the 9" front burner on the left has burned out. It is a fast-boil 3,000 watt item with 2 selections -- small and larger burners. The first time it went out, we had a repairman come. The whole process of inspecting the stove, ordering the part, and then returning to install it, took several weeks and $250! Then, a year-and-a-half later, the burner went again. This time I decided to repair it myself. I ordered this part, which came (with Prime shipping) in 2 days.The first thing I did was turn off the range circuit breakers at the outdoor panel. I checked that the clock etc. was out, and none of the burners would come on, to make sure the power was off before I opened up the range. I'd watched the repair guy and made notes, so I knew all I had to do was remove 2 screws situated under the glass stove top (I had to open the oven door to expose the screws. I took a piece of scrap wood, about 2 ft long, raised the entire top (hinged at the back), and propped it up with the wood. I compared this 9" dual burner element with the old one still in the stove to see that it was identical.First thing I did was make a little diagram to remind me which wires went to which "prongs." They are color coded, and the prongs are easy to identify. Then I used needle-nose pliers to pull off the wires in order from left to right. They are the slide-on "sleeve" type, and it took jiggling on a couple as the high heat had made them difficult to get off. There are 2 clamps that hold the element to the glass top and I was able to get them off pretty easily. I removed the old element, and while it was fresh in my mind, lined the new one up exactly like the old one. I put the clamps back on it. Like the repairman, I used a flashlight shining from underneath, while I checked from the top to make sure the element was exactly where it should be.I hooked up the wires again, in reverse order from right to left, until each of the 5 (color coded) wires was back on its prong. Easy. I removed my piece of wood and lowered the glass top. Then I went out and flipped the circuit breaker back on, returned to the kitchen and checked that the clock was back on, both elements of the burner were working, and the correct indicator lights came on (near the knob, and the heat warning light under the stove top). Everything looked good so I screwed in the two screws that hold the stove top down.This time, the entire repair only cost me the price of this element. The whole thing took about 15 minutes.Recommended!

I loved how easy it was to install it, less than 10 minutes and it works perfectly