Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Pulitzer Prize Winner)

As a dedicated bodysurfer who has spent countless hours in the ocean, I found Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life an absolute masterpiece. William Finnegan’s memoir resonated deeply with me, capturing the essence of a life lived in pursuit of the perfect wave. From the very first page, Finnegan’s storytelling prowess hooked me. His vivid descriptions of waves, the ocean, and the diverse surfing spots around the globe transported me back to my own exhilarating experiences in the water. The way he recounts his harrowing adventures and the sheer beauty of the surf is nothing short of poetic. One of the aspects I appreciated most about this book is Finnegan’s unflinching honesty. He delves into the challenges, fears, and triumphs of a surfer’s life, painting a realistic picture that goes beyond the glamorous portrayal often seen in media. His reflections on the camaraderie among surfers, the environmental changes, and the personal growth that comes with the sport are thought-provoking and inspiring. What truly sets Barbarian Days apart is Finnegan’s deep understanding of the ocean. His respect for the sea and its unpredictable nature mirrors my own feelings as a bodysurfer. I found myself nodding in agreement as he described the sensations and instincts that come with being in the water, the thrill of catching a wave, and the respect for the immense power of the ocean. I couldn’t put this book down. It’s a compelling read that will resonate with anyone who loves the ocean, whether they surf, bodysurf, or simply appreciate the beauty of nature. Finnegan’s journey is not just about surfing; it’s about life, passion, and the relentless pursuit of dreams. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a must-read for anyone who has ever felt the call of the sea. It’s a beautifully written, deeply personal memoir that captures the heart and soul of surfing—highly recommended!

A must read if you’ve ever surfed, skateboarded, or snowboarded. You’ll recognize the commitment it takes to achieve any kind of proficiency in those balance sports. This guy was on staff at The New Yorker, he can write. And he’s surfed all over the globe for 50 some years. A phenomenal read. It’s a memoir and about life as well as surfing. Highly recommended. Deserving of a Pulitzer for sure.

very interesting read. I would recomend it

A terrific book on waves written by a professional reporter, Barbarian Days smashes the stereotype of the inarticulate surfer. The watery descriptions are so vivid you can taste the salt, even when the going gets so tough, its hard to understand why the hell anything but a fish would be out in such major surf. While many tails about summiting mountains, distance swimming in open oceans or surfing waves "three refrigerators high" seem rather tall, Barbarian Days stays grounded in factual detail. The in-depth descriptions approach meditations on ocean currents, winds, reefs, surfing technique and surf board models, and yet fails to explain the question why. Certainly not the pursuit of glory, the author makes clear. Despite popular misconceptions, in the early days, the original surf culture downplayed heroics; boasts were bad form and showing off on a wave was as uncool as scoring points in a contest. In a sort of "right stuff" tone, Barbarian Days captures the authentic experience, without romance or glamour and portrays surfing as a cold, solitary test of courage. Though the author tells all, starting with his teenage addiction to waves, a mystery hangs over the book. Why freeze in stormy waters for eight hours, or summit peaks or struggle with a terminal disease against insurmountable odds? Is it human or superhuman to push the limits of tolerance when agony seems prevalent and ecstasy elusive? I once asked a three-time channel swimmer what kept him going in the cold dark ocean for 13 hours and he said "Beatle songs mostly, they just run though my head. I could almost hear the author humming in Barbarian Days, pretending the adventures are normal, though some accounts include an implicit "don't try this at home" caveat cause maybe it wasn't so smart to take such risks. In some instances, he confesses that he can't believe he came out alive. This is not a dull memoir. The childhood sections were so touching I wished my teenage son would read the book. On the other hand, I am relieved that my son doesn't read because he is growing up in a very different world. Though the quest to discover unknown waves in remote corners of the globe took knocking about to extremes, in the 1960's -1980's, traveling around was a coming of age ritual. Sadly, in this day and age, the world is not nearly as safe and faced with school and career pressures most kids won't have the luxury of an extended time out. One theme of the book concerns change. The author returned some early haunts later in life to find a remote island transformed into a luxury resort, or a coastal fishing village overrun by tourists. Lives and places change. The author aged, married, became a war correspondent, but chasing big surf remained a constant. The interplay took on a rhythmic symmetry, the more things changed the more the waves stayed the same. Like climbers with their mountains, and swimmers with their channels, for surfers the waves serve as a measure, a proving grounds, a retreat, a source of friends and a challenge that never stops calling.

This is my second time reading this amazing, well-deserved Pulitzer Prize Winner. Every word cover to cover. Having grown up in Laguna Beach, Surfing has been a part of my life since I was 4 years old. No I don't surf but am fascinated by the mindset and lifestyle. William Finnegan recalls his experience with the surfing culture in vivid detail. The feeling of barreling down the face of a Big Wave is captured beautifully as are the Wipeout. An incredibly well written and detailed narrative of the Surfing Culture in the early 1960's when the phenomenon was in its infancy.

My partner has been surfing since before we started dating, more than 15y ago. Through him, I’ve learned quite a lot about surfing over the years, yet I never fully understood the deep, almost instinctive attraction to waves and the profound connection with the sea that surfers often describe. This book finally made that clear. Throughout the narrative, the book touches upon surfboards, wave types, swells, spot hunting, and the unspoken rules shaped by locals, all in a kind of hidden way, so you actually learn about surfing, and also - the most interesting part - it explores a much more personal and intimate dimension of surfing. It gives words and meaning to something I had long sensed in my partner but hadn’t fully grasped. I really enjoyed this book and would recommend it to anyone who is even tangentially connected to the world of surfing.

William Finnegan has written the rarest of books, a measured very literary account of a surfing life. Or with the surfing and everything about it as central to his account of that life. As a lifelong surfer myself all of his descriptions, feelings, fears and joys rang true. Descriptions of some of the earliest days at now legendary destinations and surf breaks bring great pleasure. A must read for surfers and an opportunity for non surfers to understand the drives and experiences of this watery tribe. Finnegan skilfully plaits together elements of his working, personal and surfing lives across oceans, continents and decades.

What an incredible read. I say this having had to look up no end of words and references throughout reading the book and even with my lack of education I was never deterred to continue reading. What a unique, honest, wise and unapologetic account from the author and as a surfer who has always been distinctly average to fundamentally crap much of what he describes are unattainable dreams for me but I loved hearing about it. I loved hearing about what are now world famous breaks when they were just discovered secret spots or local worshipers only. This autobiographical referential history of surfing makes a telling that I would liken to the first time you hear a truly great album. I may re-read it but the profound feeling of balance and awe that I have been left with is truly astounding and something for which I am truly grateful to the author. thank you Mr Finnegan and for expanding my vocabulary too 🤙🙌

Il surf non è uno sport, è un mito, un poema epico tramandato da libri e film come Point Break o Un mercoledì da leoni e questo libro è un altro capitolo di questa epopea che crea eroi capaci di cavalcare onde che non si possono nemmeno immaginare. L'autore ripercorre tutta la sua vita da ragazzo ad adulto, sulla tavola, anzi le tavole che lo accompagnano in giro per il mondo da Bali alle Hawaii. Scritto bene, leggero ma con dettagli interessanti per chi ama il surf anche solo da spettatore o fotografo o appassionato. Uno dei più bei libri mai letti sul surf. Solo un dubbio...saprà ripetersi l'autore su altri temi che non riguardano il surf con la stessa passione?

Amazing book, even for non surf enthusiasts. 10/10

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life“ ist eine intensive, autobiografische Reise durch William Finnegans lebenslange Surfobsession, die weit über einen typischen Surf-Roman hinausgeht. Mit literarischer Präzision beschreibt er Kindheit und Jugend in Kalifornien und Hawaii, gefährliche Trips rund um die Welt und die Suche nach Identität im Rhythmus der Wellen. Das Buch verbindet Abenteuer, Reiseliteratur und reflektierte Selbstbeobachtung, ohne Surfing zu romantisieren oder zu banalisieren. Besonders stark sind die dichten Milieubeschreibungen und die Ehrlichkeit im Umgang mit Angst, Risiko und den Schattenseiten des Surf-Lifestyles. Insgesamt ein tiefgründiges, sprachlich starkes Buch, das den Pulitzer Prize für Autobiografie absolut nachvollziehbar macht und auch Nicht-Surfern viel bietet.