🌟 Control Your Climate, Elevate Your Space!
The DC 12V Electronic Temperature Controller is a versatile and precise thermostat control switch module, capable of measuring temperatures from -50 to 110°C with a refresh rate of 0.5 seconds. Featuring a waterproof NTC sensor and a dual color LED display, it is ideal for a variety of applications including smart homes, aquariums, and industrial equipment.
A**R
I N F O ... Y O U ... M U S T ... K N O W ... B E F O R E ... B U Y I N G
I purchased the same controller from 2 different sources. On one order I received the old design and on the other order I received the new design. The one I bought from (DZS Elect) was the NEW design and included an operating manual. It worked great for 3 days; but then failed and only showed LLL in the red digital display for the current temperature. I checked the probe and the wiring. The failure was internal in the controller. The NEW design controller uses surface mount rectifiers on the pc board next to the relay. Do NOT buy the new design from (DZS Elect). I bough the other controller from (Xipshow) and the controller I received was the OLD design (which is much better than the new design). The old design uses redial lead rectifiers in the pc board next to the relay. but it does not come with the operating instructions. You can get that by going on line and looking up KETOTEK Model KTF0091. It's only one page. In almost every case you can use the factory settings for operation and only change from C° to F° if that is your choice. The important point is this ----- Buy from (Xipshow) and get the OLD design. It works great with no problems.
J**O
Works very well
This thermostat is very basic but it works very well. Mine didn't come with wiring directions but now they show the diagram on the product description on AMAZON (but it still isn't very clear). One thing they don't explain is why there is a jumper between the ground inputs, as depicted on the top portion of the wiring diagram. What I found is that if you attach a switch (on/off basic switch) between the negative input and negative jumper input (right next to it), you can use that to keep the fan or heater element from turning on and still have the thermometer on and showing the temperature. Why would you want this? In my case, I don't want the fan or heater to turn on while I adjust the thermostat to the temperature I want it to turn on. I can just look at the red dot on the thermostat to see if it turns on or off while not pushing power to the fan or heating element. This will also keep the fan or heater from turning on accidentally and running your batteries down.I have this installed in three different areas in my coach.1. Electricity bay to keep the inverter and other electronics cool. It runs an exhaust fan.2. Battery bay to keep the lithium batteries at the appropriate operating temperature. It runs an exhaust fan and heating element.3. Water bay to keep the water pump from freezing in the winter. It runs a heating element.
C**N
Added to a car audio amp rack
Great little temperature gauges. I installed this into a car audio amp rack. I wired up two 30mm fans to it. One to take in fresh air and cool off the amp, and one to pull the air out of the amp space. I chose this method because my amp is going to enclosed behind 3/4 plexiglass. The wiring was a little confusing at first, but after a second look i discovered that all 12v power wires (battery , and both fans ) go into connection 1 on the back. 12v ground from the battery goes into connection 2 on the back. A bridge wire is used to go from connection 2to connection 3 on the back and then both fans negative (black wires ) go into connection 4 in the back. This allows the connection to be made and activate the fans when the set temperature is exceeded. I have included a video to show you the operation, i hope this helps anyone who purchases this product.I have noticed that my led lights on my enclosures and amp rack dim when the temperature is exceeded causing the fans to come on. I think this might be an issue on my end because i couldn’t get the 14 gauge wire i was using to connect to the distribution block (on the back of my amp rack) to go into the connections on the back of the temperature gauge so i spliced in some 20 gauge. I think this is causing the dimming.
B**N
No Load or Electrical Output from Either Unit
First there was NO manual to provide any explanation of the correct connections, the Setup codes or definitions of the codes. Connected power supply to unit, and both LEDs displayed values. However the load output did not provide any voltage. Went through as best as I could to figure out the correct setting and still NO load output, and changed the blue LED Temperature to a value of 60F thinking this low temperature setting would provide output or load voltage, but still none. Thinking this is a defective unit, tried the second unit, and made similar adjustments, and still no load or output voltage. Either both units are defective or there is a setting which needs to be made, but without a manual this is hard to do. Would not purchase.
I**P
They work well
I was skeptical that these units would work very well. I was pleasantly surprised at how well they work. They're small but effective 12v heating mat controllers. Excellent value, would buy again if needed.
D**D
No bueno
Lamento informar que las unidades que compré no se programan fácilmente. Estudié las instrucciones y seguí cada paso, sin embargo, fueron difíciles de entender ya que las traducciones no son buenas. Compré 3 unidades. El primero no se puede restablecer, así que instaló el segundo. No puedo configurarlo en Cool, ni configurar la temperatura que quiero que activen los ventiladores. Está atascado en 25C (lo cual está bien pero preferiría 20C). Además, la pantalla es muy, muy brillante. Una opción de atenuación sería genial. Estoy instalando la tercera unidad para monitorear la temperatura de mi refrigeración y la activación del ventilador. No tengo esperanzas de poder programar este tampoco.
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5 days ago
1 month ago