1 Meter USB to TTL Serial Port Cable RS232 0.1 Inch 4 Pin Female 3.3V Converter

Having a "bricked" device I wanted to get the serial output to try repairing it. I made my own USB cable, but it wasn't stable enough.I found this listing, seeing the reviews about it not being authentic I decided to give it a shot, since the price was low. Upon plugging it in on my Windows 10 machine the commonly seen "THIS IS NOT PROLIFIC PL2303." text shows up. However I could still edit the driver settings, so I tried it on my older Windows 10 laptop. This time that name didn't show up in Device Manager. Instead it showed "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed);" which is what would show up with my homemade cable.This led me to believe it was a driver issue, not hardware. I started looking for older versions of the driver and found a few. Even Prolific had an older driver listed on their website. Sure enough after I "updated" the driver to an older version it showed up properly in Device Manager and allowed me to use PuTTY, removing the "road block" the new driver was causing.You'll see in the pictures I added that it's working with the correct driver name. I even tested it with the "Check PL-2303 chip version" utility that comes with the new driver, showing that it's an XA/HXA chip....the product Prolific states is EoL and not supported anymore.I wish the leads were a little better labeled, and a slightly larger gauge. I had to figure out which color for data went to which pin.For me it was: white = Tx green = RxRed and black are easy, being voltage and ground.Hopefully this review helps others looking as I wanted to share my experience in getting this cable to work.

Buy a different product if possible, like other reviews say- the product does not have genuine parts and will be a pain to deal with. I wish I tested it earlier and was still able to return the product. Bought it way in advance for a class but now can’t use it.

I use this all the time. Never fails to be recognized or connect and use at a bridge device. It does what it says and iv already gotten a couple more. Great for roboticss

I needed this to program ESP8266 micro-controllers. It works for that (thankfully stepping the power down to 3.3V, which is what the ESP8266 needs). The little female wires are reasonable durable, but I still wouldn't be rough on them. Note that the USB A plug is rather large, probably because it needs to step down the voltage from 5V to 3.3V with a a couple of resistors. I recommend this cord for easy access to the four pins of a standard USB A connection.

Gives the error shown above, online articles say Prolific's driver gives this message when it sees a non-genuine copycat IC.Now I've got to find a "gray market" driver that will work on Windows 11. Haven't found one yet.

Linux? Mac OS X? Windows 10 on x86? No problem! Either drivers are already included (linux, mac) or easily gotten from Windows Update. However, Windows 11 and Windows on ARM don't work just by plugging in, and need to download separately, but no instructions included! Thankfully after some searching, found FTDI drivers for a wide range of operating systems, even Windows CE and Mac OS 9 at ftdichip (dot) com / drivers / vcp-drivers / (I don't know why we can't paste links to the drivers).Wish the pins were labeled.

Looks to be of good quality, but simply produced garbled text when using to access console of my router. Supposed to be the right cable, based on specs but cannot confirm if this is a problem of the cable or the box.

Prolific adapters have fallen from love in recent years, but this simple device does exactly what's advertised.After adapting the old-school USB-A to USB-C, it worked fine with my Macs. I spot-checked it on a Pi running Dietpi and it was fine there, too. I put the output signals on a scope and everything was expected. The red is +5V, Green marks at 3.2V, White is a high impedance input and black ground is ground-y. It provided enough power on the 5V rails to boot a prototype Star64, which was a welcome surprise.5 stars, even for an unimaginative product, for doing exactly what it claims it does. That's a welcome relief.To the above reviewer that faced device compatibility issues, I'd wager it's an older design. This provides +/-3.3V of swing on TX and most importantly has an RX threshold of something like +/-2.1V. If you're dealing with older 5V TTL-level devices, it's quite possible that the 3.3V isn't able to provide enough voltage delta to register a signal change. That or it's a very NEW device that's actually 1.8V and the lows on this aren't low enough to register. Either way, pairing it with an age-appropriate device will be your happiest place. This is a potential issue for all users of any board. The days of +/- 12VDC charge pumps just to ignite the line drivers are long gone. (The search term you may need is "level shifter".) Debugging with a scope and data sheet may be needed.

Non sono riuscito a farglielo vedere da windows 11 ed alla fine ho dovuto comperare un'altro cavo di altra marca. Peccato, sembrava fatto bene. Non ho avuto voglia di sbattermi a fare N tentativi e reinstallare driver o quant'altro.