Deluxe Murphy Bed Frame (Twin) Vertical Wallbed, Powder-Coated Steel Frame for Folding Cabinet, Pull-Out Bed, Hidden Bed

The P200 is a nicely designed murphy frame that fits into closet with 2 x 36" doors easily. The 12" queen mattress mounted on frame will clear 80" door jam when rotated down from inside the closet. My 16 year old son put the assembly togethor in about 5 hours.

This product was very easy to assemble!!! I put it together by myself in about three hours. Instructions were easy to follow and parts separated and labeled. Once together it goes up and down with little effort and takes up a small foot print in our house. I definitely recommend this for anyone looking for a Murphy bed that’s is sturdy and won’t break the bank.

Great sturdy product. I put this in my daughters room and it has been holding up to her abuse very well. Highly recommend this bed to anyone.

The beds are an excellent product. The customer support from the company is beyond expected. There were problems with ordering through Amazon, but the company worked hard to clear up the problem.

The assembly instructions are poor. And the diagrams that go with the instructions are worse. Here's what I wish I knew before I started assembling a double and a single bed, using the same numbers as in the instruction manual.1. The Bottom Spring Tube (J) belongs OUTSIDE (toward the middle of the room) the Floor Yokes (H).2. The Wall Mount Brackets (G) belong INSIDE (toward the wall) the Floor Yokes (H). Put the bolt head on the outside and the nuts on the inside of the assembly. The instruction "Do not tighten bolts now so you can adjust later" is not practical (see instruction 20 below). Measure the thickness of your mattress, add an inch or two for bedding, sagging, etc, and use that measurement to decide how far to slide parts G and H together. It is extremely difficult to slide those parts once the weight of the frame bears down on the wall mount brackets.3. At last, an easy step.4. Next Bed doesn't say what size of a drill bit to use. Use a 1/8" bit if your wall is softer material for the 2" long hole you must drill. Use an 11/64" bit if drilling "at a downward angle" as instructed reaches into hard flooring. Do not try to force the screws in completely with an electric screwdriver/drill, or they may bind, get stuck, and be extremely difficult to remove so that you can drill the hole wider and deeper.5. Loop the nylon mattress strap (part 5) around the side rails so it stays near the FOOT of the frame, between the last two slat holders.6. My two kits each had a bag of slat holders and screws to attach them--AND a set of Slat Holders that was already attached to the Side Rails (D). If your Side Rails have a row of slat holders attached already, don't look for a way to attach more--there's no way. But do take a Phillips screwdriver and make sure the slat holders are attached tightly. Some of mine were not.Side Rails: you must array them with "closed" end slat holders facing across the frame, not toward the outside (so you can insert the slats by sliding one end into a "closed" slat holder then bending and popping the other end into an "open" slat holder (Instruction 16).Attach the side rails to the head rail (B) and "end" (foot) rail (F) so that the holes to attach the legs (N) are near the "end" (foot) rail, not near the head rail.The instructions don't say whether the head of the bolt or its nut should be outside, but do it however you want; it doesn't matter.The End Frame and the Head Frame may slide easily onto the rails, but they may not. If they don't, hold a rail with one hand and use a rubber mallet with the other hand to pound a rail into it so you don't bend or chip the frames. To keep rails from binding on the frames, pound the pieces together not more than a half inch at a time, then go to the other side and do the same. Keep progress even.7. The frame is tapped for the short bolts (7), like some others in the kit. But the threads may be imperfect and resist the Allen wrench somewhat. Still, it will tighten if you bear down--but don't force it; if the resistance to tightening is extreme, back the bolt out and try aligning the bolt in the hole again.8. Easy.9. See my notes on instruction #6.10. Easy.11. Here's where you may need a friend to help, especially if it's a double or bigger bed. The assembly is heavy and tall--and top-heavy, too. So, be careful--don't hurt your back.12. Opening the springs to attach them to the Bottom Spring Tube and the Floor Yokes requires at least a hundred pounds of force. I couldn't do even one of them without panting with exertion. Instead, hook the lower end of the spring onto the Spring Tube Holder (as instructed in Photo 1). Grab the VERTICAL part of the upper end of the spring with a big pair of Vice Grips lock pliers. Using the lock pliers as a lever and the Yoke Connecter Bar as the fulcrum (don't worry, you can't bend it), swing the upper end of the spring over to the hole in the Yoke Connecter Bar. If you position it right, when you pop open the lock pliers, the end of the spring will drop into the proper hole. If not, hammer it across the Yoke connecter bar till it drops into place--a few scratches won't matter.13. Don't worry about overtightening. Ordinary hand-tight tightening is fine.14. Easy.15. It may be very hard to attach one (or both) Actuator Bars to the Floor Yoke. If an Actuator Bar won't fit into the "finger" of the Floor Yoke at the bottom end of the assembly, try loosening the bolts that connect the Actuator Bars (E) to the Leg Brackets (N) first. If that doesn't help, try opening a leg (N) a little and wiggling things into place. If the Actuator Bar still won't fit into the Leg Bracket, but is close to fitting, get a rat-tail file and file out the hole in the actuator bar a bit. Tolerances are such that simply filing off the paint may help thing fit together. But you may have to file off a bit of steel, too, at the upper end of the hole in the Actuator Bar.16 & 17. Easy.18. I found four springs enough for a double bed and for a single bed.19. Easy.20. If you did step 2 as per my notes, this step should be needless. But in my hands, the head of the mattress impinged on the wall too much as I raised the bed. I could not loosen the Wall Mount Brackets until I removed the mattress AND the bed frame. That's why I wrote to take a lot of care in step 2.Still, once you get it together, the murphy bed frame operates easily, and it seems strong and durable.

I was able to put this together alone, though it may have been helpful to have another set of eyes on the instructions, which were not as clear as I'd have liked. I definitely made some mistakes along the way. More diagrams would have been great, but instead we only got 2 or 3 zoomed-out diagrams with parts labeled, rather than close-ups to demonstrate fit. I ended up having to unbolt and rebolt things a few times to get them in the right place/direction.In some cases, the pre-drilled holes were just a bit too tight for the screws, forcing me to drill into the frame to accommodate them. And the instructions for attaching the springs were useless. Ultimately, I found a video on the Wilding Wallbeds website that gave me a very helpful tip -- use a long screwdriver and leverage the cross beam to pull the springs up and onto the bedframe. This chipped the paint a bit, but worked.I also struggled to get the frame to attach to the wall. The screws provided are extremely long and my wall only has a few inches before one hits brick. So, I had to make some adjustments. I also needed a longer distance between the wall and the bed in order to accommodate a radiator (small room / no murphy bed cabinet). That meant that I was only able to bolt the wall mount and the base together using one bolt rather than two, which left the bed unstable and buckling when the bed was down. I'll have to add some wood spacers between the mount and the wall in order to make the work, ultimately.Otherwise, though, it is great. It's both stable and easy to lift and bring down. It provides good space underneath. And it's comfortable, providing great support throughout the night.Really happy with this purchase.

We put this in a closet in a spare room that we use as an office, now we can use it as a guest room too! Easy to put together. We did have an issue with the slats, but called the company and they gave us great suggestions, and excellent support!! Definitely would buy from this company again.

Great Murphey Bed frame and hardware....WE assembled and installed in an existing closet 60x80(standard size opening) and discovered when we first lifted the bed that it would not fit thru the opening. Another reviewer had said that Amazon was incorrect in listing 83" as the height of the frame but that is exactly the measurement of our frame. If you look at the picture the frame from where it touches the floor to the top of the frame is just over 83". Luckily my husband is a DIY'er and we extended the height of the Closet, added 1 1/2 " to width, and replaced the door trim as well as the doors. A lot of work but worth it. The bed works great and is very easy to lift. (the missing slats in the picture are due to needing to have access for paintng and putting shelves in the closet) I really don't know why there was a difference in the height of our frame and the other reviewer!