ELEGRP Digital Toggle Dimmer Switch for Dimmable LED, CFL and Incandescent Light Bulbs, Single Pole or 3-Way Toggle LED Dimmer Light Switch, Wall Plate Included, UL Listed, 1 Pack, Black

Great value. Works well and dims the lights. Connectivity was easy.

Changed this switch from white to black because of our new backsplash going up in the kitchen. This switch works very well. looks good. Fit perfect. Nice to have the adjustment on when and how bright you want your light on low.

Depending what you’re using them for and how tight of a budget you’re on these are not a bad product. That said there is a delay switching them on and they’re just not as smooth and substantial as the big name brands are. Clearly overseas knock off. That said I had a customer that went from about four dimmers in our remodel to well over 20 so this is what I decided to go with to not have to charge them more. No complaints from them.

Easy as could be installation. I just finished installing one in our master bath. That one has the 6 G25 style "vanity" bulbs all in a neat row. I will try and answer some questions I had before I started the installation.FIT: My bath uses a two gang plate. That is there is the light switch and a fan switch in the same plate. Yes, this dimmer fits nicely where the old light switch was. The model I have is ELEGRP ADS015-WH Digital Toggle Dimmer Switch which at this time is about $16. The screw holes in the switch DO have a little slot to give you some room to adjust fit into the light (gang) plate, not major slots like cheap light switches, but enough that it offered me no alignment issues.Electrical: This switch is just fine using only two wires, which is what my old switch used. For a single-pole configuration there are three wires, but only 2 need to go to the switch. The three wires are 1. Hot 2. Load 3. Ground or Neutral. In my situation the ground wires are capped off together (fan and light) and I was glad I didn't have to take that apart. Normally on a simple switch, it doesn't matter where the hot and load wires go. But on a digital dimmer it certainly does. The dimmer is clearly marked and even has two red stickers over the Hot and the Three-way connection points to make it clear as a bell what to do. In my case, I am using the switch as single pole. As this is the only switch that can control those lights. A three-way would be like if you had a light switch at the bottom of the stairs, and another at the top that controlled the same set of lights. Again, I didn't need that configuration so won't cover it. Now since I didn't have an exposed ground anywhere in the light switch box, I had to come up with a way to tell which was the hot wire, and which was the load wire. A little background, I am a retired commercial aviation test guy...mostly avionics/electronics and I have Electronics Engineering degree. So I feel very qualified to simple residential electrical work. If you are not sure....ask a friend. It could save you the switch, or your life. Having said that, I am a very triplicate kind of guy when it comes to working on AC circuits. Its how I lived long enough to retire with all my body parts intact if you know what I mean. First things first, figure out which circuit breaker supplies power to that switch. In my case there was one circuit breaker for everything in that bathroom. OPEN that circuit breaker. Then verify the lights are not working. Now it is reasonably safe to remove the light cover and expose the switch assembly. Because both my wires were black, no ridges that I could feel, and were speckled with sloppy paint job, it was impossible to determine by feel or visually which was the hot wire. SO I got out my trusty Fluke meter and grabbed some extra cable leads (I think it took 3) long enough to reach from the switch to one of the light sockets. After removing the bulb, I put an alligator clip on the inside center contact in the bulb socket, and then with the other meter lead touched it to one of the terminal screws on the side of the light switch with the switch in the ON position, took note of the reading in Ohms (so you want to be set to read resistance), then flipped the switch to OFF and took note of the resistance. I this case, the bottom screw read 10 ohms with the switch on, and and about 0.1 ohms with it off. I then repeated on the top screw, and got the same readings. SO now I am really sure the top screw is the LOAD wire going directly to the power of the light bulb socket, and the the bottom screw is the HOT wire. To further continue (remember I said I check circuits in triplicate) I made sure with the switch exposed that there was absolutely nothing that could make an electrical short. Warned the family of the live exposed circuit and went down and closed the circuit breaker. Now, I switched the Fluke multimeter to AC Volts. Put the banana jack of my extra long meter lead into the bottom (third, or ground prong) of the outlet above the bathroom sinks. Then I took my insulated alligator clip and touched it to the bottom screw of the light switch and verified 115VAC. Then I flipped the light switch to the opposite position and verified that the 115VAC remained. Then I went to the top screw, and with the switch in the OFF position verified less than 3VAC (in this case it was less than 1VAC, about .750 or so which is just inductance from the hot wire so close to it) and then flipped the light switch and verified 115AC with the switch ON.Ok, so now I am positive without a single doubt that the bottom wire on my existing switch is the HOT, and the top wire is the LOAD. Now, go back, open that circuit breaker again. Go back up, verify no voltage is present using that outlet ground. I had a couple of little LED lanterns to light up the bathroom....so if you don't have natural light already...be prepared to work in the dark.Now to get the wires out of your old switch. If your wires are twisted around the screw...no brainer, loosen and remove the screw. If they are adjacent to the screw but in a hole...look by the wire, opposite of the scew there should be a little hole, round or rectangular. If you are lucky there will be printing by this divot that says "PUSH TO RELEASE WIRE", just take a thin flat tip and press down on that silver retainer firmly, while grasping the wire. Yeah, it will feel awkward...pushing with two fingers, and pulling with another two, but the wire will slip out easily and if you are lucky, it will be in perfect condition and the insulation trimmed to the correct length. On the back of your new switch is a printing showing the correct length, so you can put your wire against that and trim as needed.INSTALLATION: One of the reviews said that the screws were really tight. I found that the screws were already where they should be. Turn your screws in a tightening direction....they should resist at first but then easily tighten. Now back the two screws back out until they fight you again. That is all you need. Put your HOT wire into the hole marked BK. I found it helpful to use my thumb to press the screw against the body of the switch while seating the wire. Once FULLLY seated, tighten that screw. Now give that wire a pull test and verify it is securely in place.Now you do the same with your LOAD wire, going to the RD, this one will have a red sticker covering it. (There are two red stickers...one of them is for your LOAD, the other says DO NOT REMOVE unless you are using three-way....just a reminder)...and you are gonna do the same thing. Seat it, tighten the screw, pull-check verify the wire is captured and walla, you are done playing with wires. Now just screw the thing into the holes.Pre-Powering Up: Verify all the bulbs in your circuit are dimmable. Otherwise, what is the point? And some bulbs don't play well with dimmers.There are some instructions for adjusting the switch for pulsing or flickering...I did not have any flicker whatsoever. In fact with 0 adjustment, I was able to get the lights as dimmer than a single candle with 0 flicker or instability. My house is over 30 years old, so it is not brand new.I hope I helped someone. This is my first light dimmer in my life. I'm getting older and bright light first thing in the morning give me a headache. That is why I got it. As for the bulbs I got these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ZY4HV1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1The only drawback to this switch is the slider is on the door side, so when you stumble around for the light switch, I hit the slider too max, so got bright lights anyway. LOL....guess I have to learn to not do that.

Functional and works well.

We swapped an Analog Dimmer with a regular switch for our chandelier. After so many years, we are now decided to refill the chandelier with dimmable LED chandelier bulb. Going full blast, the bulbs are way too bright. So we decided to get a dimmer back. This is what we are going with because it fits standard light switch wall plate.What I like:- Includes toggle and dimmer so you can keep a set brightness and you can use this in a three-way switch. (only one dimmer to set brightness in a 3-way)- It fits a standard switch wall plate.- Stickers included to mark the wires.- Adjustable digital dimmer to avoid flickering or buzzing.- No neutral wire needed to connect to the switch (unlike smart switches)What to watch out for:- Toggle switch is quite loud and sounds hollow if you casually flip it.- There is a slight delay between switching and the light turning on (less than a second).This works well with Hizashi brand Candelabra Light Bulbs. I had to adjust the low setting once. No flickering or buzzing. Good deal for the price.

Switches work fine and are fairly easy to install. They lack slotted mounting adjustments like other name brand switches so double gang boxes require you to loosen the other switch if the faceplate won't fit, which it never does with these switches. See pictures of both kinds of switches, one with adjustable mounting and the other (these switches) without the ability to move them at all.

I bought this item for my main bathroom lighting. Had an electrician install it. Works fine with some variable LED bulbs.