Rust-Oleum 293513 Rocksolid Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating, 2.5 Car Kit, Gray

暑くなる前にと、今朝ガレージの塗装をしました。少し広いけど一台分のスペースだからと送って貰った2台のキットの内1パックを使うつもりでした。厚めに塗っていると足りないことに気づき、慌ててもう１つを開封。たっぷり余裕を持って塗った分、重厚な仕上がりです。光沢があり表面はツルツル。完全硬化を待って2日後に入庫予定ですが、ショウルームで愛車に出会って時の再現となりそうです。

I give this 4 out of 5 stars only because I believe Rust-Oleum should provide 10% more epoxy in these bags to ensure coverage is possible for the suggested area. The finished product is very nice. Shipping was very fast and at $167, this is the cheapest price I’ve seen yet for the 2.5 car kit (normally $214 in my local stores).There are tons of videos and explanations on how to apply epoxy floor coating, but I wanted to share my experience as well in case something I did differently might help someone else. This is my third time using this product specifically and I wanted to pass a long some of what I’ve learned so far.Before beginning, check all your supplies. The kit should come with two bags of epoxy sealed ( I have purchased these where they bags are slightly leaking, make sure to return and get a new one if that’s the case), two rollers, two bags of flake coloring and two bags of floor etching. If you’re using a clear coat be sure to check that kit as well. Sometimes items will be missing from kits or the contents will be damaged.1) vacuum the floor/cracks and wipe any easily removable contaminants from the floor before etching the concrete. prep is key! I did not use the acid etching method for my floor, since I’ve heard mixed results on that. Instead, I prefer to use an angle grinder with a 4inch cement grinding blade and a dust shroud with shop vacuum attachment (see pictures). The first time I did one of these floors I used a big floor buffer and was never able to grind through everything (oil spots), couldn’t get in the corners, and even with the shop vacuum attached to the floor buffer it still created a lot of dust. For the rental fee of the floor buffer you can own an angle grinder with all the necessary attachments (minus the vacuum probably). The dust shroud I used on the angle grinder really does capture 99% of all dust as advertised and it took me 4-5hrs to angle grind one garage spot. Aim for the same whitish color everywhere on the the cement after grinding; any dark spots indicate an area that might have had an oil spill or other contamination and you should do your best to remove this dark area.2) check floor temperature using an infrared laser thermometer. Harbor freight sells these for $18-60 typically depending which one you want. See picture. Be sure the floor temperature is above 55F is my suggestion. Some people might feel comfortable with lower temps but it will slow or even stop the curing process depending how low the temperature is. I have a garage heater I used to help control the temperatures for this job. Ambient temperature was 74F while the coldest spot on the floor was near 65F for reference. Outside the garage was near 40F. Humidity should remain below 85% according to Rust-Oleum; mine ranged 61-72% from what I saw.3) use the Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch Repair kit epoxy. It comes in a small whiteish box and you can see how far one 24oz kit went in the photos I’ve uploaded. I mixed this epoxy with a putty knife in an old shoe box and used that as my trough for the mixed epoxy while I moved around the garage. If I had wanted to fill all the cracks between the cement slabs for this one garage spot I probably would’ve needed 3-4 more kits. This crack filler product does a great job, but at $1 per ounce it is expensive. I filled cracks up to 1/2 inch wide and deep for this particular epoxy coating and did not fill the cracks between the cement slabs to save some money. (Filling cracks prevents wasting the floor epoxy which will flow into cracks very easily.) Once the filler epoxy has hardened (~8-20hrs depending on your conditions) be sure to grind the filler epoxy to level it out and also to rough it up so the floor epoxy will stick to it next.4) vacuum the entire floor area to be coated. I used a shop vacuum with squeegee attachment then a Dyson house vacuum with the motorized head to scrub the concrete pours.5) wipe the entire floor with acetone and some rags. I’ve found this can pick up additional particulate that the vacuum misses. I allowed the acetone to dry for 12 hours with fans running while looking for any dark spots in the cement (wet) before continuing. If you note a lot of moisture in your cement you may need to perform additional sealing of the concrete before epoxying the floor (see Rust-Oleum moisture stop). Water seeping in to the concrete from the underside can cause the floor epoxy to peal up over time and even to crack the concrete. To determine if there’s a moisture issue, Rust-Oleum suggests using a piece of plastic taped to the floor for 24hrs to see if moisture builds up under the plastic.6) prepping the epoxy... make sure to have your paint roller ready and colored flake accessible. Before breaking the seal between epoxy A and B sides, I mixed around the contents of each separately in case they had become separated or built up in one corner inside the bags (these can sit on the shelf for years in a store). Then, on the floor, slowly roll part A side of the bag (like you’d roll a sleeping bag) toward part B and you should feel the seal in the middle “pop” open and both parts will begin mixing. Very important to mix for the suggested minimum time 3-4 minutes... I add one extra minute of mix time to be sure. Roll the bags around, press the edges, do your best to make sure parts A and B are completely mixed together.7) Start at the furthest point from where you plan to exit the area after coating the floor. Cut the corner of the bag off to allow a small opening to pour from. Pour a line of the epoxy three fingers wide a few inches from the wall. I worked from the back of the garage to the front so I was doing 10ft wide sections at a time. The roller will absorb a bit at first, but then will act more like a squeegee pushing the epoxy around. Avoid pushing any epoxy into deep cracks as this will waste a lot of material. Attempt to keep the same thickness of epoxy in all areas of the floor to avoid discoloration. I was able to complete one 10x20 foot garage area with one bag of epoxy, but I note it appears thin in a couple spots (different color grey finish when dry) due to thin spots most likely. Unfortunately, I believe for perfect coverage, 2.5-3 bags are needed in a 20x20 garage depending on how many pours and pits the concrete has. If you want the color flake, I suggest laying 4-5 feet of epoxy on the floor in front of you, then throwing the flake (throw up and let it fall on the epoxy rather than throwing down. It will disperse more evenly this way)8) leave the garage closed and check back in 8hours. If it is still tacky (not gummy) then check back in another 4-5hrs. I had a little on my paint roller still so I was able to check that for tackiness before I went back to the garage (trying to keep the heat in the garage). After 12hrs my epoxy was hard enough to walk on. I crawled around and used my hands to search for any sticky spots at this point. The first time I used this product I believe it was not mixed long enough before applying and/or the floor was not completely ground down and the epoxy did not cure in 60% of the floor. We had to use grinders and acetone to remove this area and then grind/rough up the cured spots before applying a new coat of epoxy.9) once the epoxy is cured, I chose to add the Rock Solid clear coat for added strength/durability. Since the cement has been coated the pours are sealed and one bag of clear will cover a 20x20 garage floor nicely. After mixing the Part A and B for the clear, I decided to add the provided anti slip additive. I cut the top of the bag open completely and poured in the additive. I worked it around in the bag a bit before starting to pour it out around the floor. Be sure to continue to stir the additive as you’re pouring, or it will all settle to the bottom. Similar to laying the first epoxy coating. Note, This will spread much easier over the already epoxied floor, so you don’t need to pour as much out as you did initially when coating the floor.10) wait 8-12hours and check back on the curing floor. Solid is goo, tacky is okay, gummy might11) I wait a full weekend before moving everything heavy (tool chests) back on the floor just in case some spots are still curing.Good luck!EDIT: if you are applying the Rock Solid Clear, I have recently found better results to throw the anti slip additive on the floor (similar to throwing the colored flakes) rather than adding it to the clear epoxy while it’s in the bag. This prevents clumping of the anti skid material when the clear coat hardens.

The product is fantastic but....the coverage claims are bogus..I had a garage built last December with new concrete. I did the following.building.Steps I took-1.) Ground the 676 square foot pad in January 2023 (Brand new pad)2.) Did a moisture test, there was a minimal amount so I bought Radon Seal to seal the concrete in January. After I Radon sealed and waited per the manufactures instructions I waited 10 days.3.) After waiting 15-20 days I ground the concrete again with a concrete grinder after the Radon concrete sealer4.) I did another moisture test for 72 hours and there was no moisture.5.) After a number of days Then I used Rustoleum recoat primer this coated well, no bleed through.6.) 24 hours after putting down the recoat Primer I installed 3 kits of (2.5 car) Rock solid polycuramine, put down the flakes.I had 6 kits, one kit was leaking right away then I opened up two more kits applied those and the third kit I didn't see leaking till I opened it up, I put it in a plastic bag after taking a picture and opened a 6th kit7.) After that cured for a number of days I used a 4th kit to complete the side of the garage that I had stuff in.Overall I bought 6 kits. Took 4 kits to cover and two were leaking.I watched youtube videos, followed all the instructions, more than did what I was supposed to. The 4 kits covered it well but just keep in mind I finished the project and didn't report the under coverage till after the fact. Attached is a printout of this claim with the completed project.On a side note, I am very happy with the product, it looks really good, seems very solid. The issue I have is it took 4 boxes to do a 2.5 car garage when as advertised it should have taken one box. Even if you account for my putting it on a little heavier (which I didn't) maybe two boxes but to have to keep buying more boxes on multiple orders I mean it was spreading so little that I thought it might take 6 boxes. I didnt ask for a refund for 5 boxes I just wanted a refund for the two leaking ones and the 2 of the 4 kits it took to cover a 2.5 car garage. Anyway, great product but WAY WAY WAY underestimated the coverage. The concrete had a plastic vapor shield installed before they laid the concrete, I tested it, grinded it, vapor sealed it, grinded it again, primed it and it still took 4 kits and 2 additional kits leaking. So that is a bummer and very frustrating. Again, love the product but don't love the leaking material or the massive amount of polycuramine it took. I mean I prepped way better than almost anyone I saw on Youtube or what your website says. It is adhearing perfectly to the floor, no issues there, no bubbling and the garage is a closed up and heated space. I would recommend the product but not the coverage claims.Rustoleum is planning to refund me for two leaking kits and some of the undercoverage but they need to update coverage claims.Basically 1 kits covers less than 200 square feet.Product looks great and I did put the clear rustoleun sealant with grip infused and it covered fine, primer covered fine.I would buy again of they update their claims of coverage just so people know what its going to take but it looks and performs well so far.

First amazon had the lowest price around (when did this stuff get so expensive eh?) so good value. First time use... applied to a new concrete floor so I just cleaned first and applied direct (a primer might work but I wanted the product to adhere direct to concrete). Pretty easy to work with- I used an extended painter's pole with a roller (rough surface type). While you have to work pretty fast due to curing you also need to work slow to provide the right coverage- after a few small areas I got a better handle on "product thickness" to provide for seamless coverage. I was worried about coverage as my garage was about 370 sq ft. (plus worked well on a wooden step to house) but I just got the right amount to last drop. I would think that for an older garage floor you will end up needing more product. Total floor only took about 3 hours- my garage was in two segments which matched the product perfectly- make sure your joints get filled in during application. For any spotty areas I just touched about with a matching floor paint (very small quantities) I did not worry about pre-painting edges with smaller brush (as recommended in several YouTube "how to" videos- I thought that would take too much time and my garage walls are off the floor a bit and same color. I used a matching flakes (white-black-gray) bought elsewhere (did not like the blue- personal taste) that worked and looked awesome- now my personal taste is a little heavier on the flakes side (then the amount provided in kit) but you need to be careful not to over apply as the floor will get a little clumpy and extends the curing time. I had extra flakes product that I was able to blow out but still had some pieces carry off on shoes etc. for a few months. This product is WAY better (they say 10x- but I think more than that) vs. the base product (epoxy). I've installed probably 8 different flooring coatings in my life and this was my best experience. Very easy to clean and Again need to work slowly and deliberate but don't over apply- product applies dark first and then lightens up quite a bit when cured- final product will be very "shiny" in appearance. This project saved me over $1,800 from a contractor estimate with 1 year warranty. Hopefully this was last for several years...held up excellent now for 9 months. Highly Recommended for do-it-yourselfers

I did a lot of research on YouTube about this product. It worked very well but I am thankful for all of the YouTube videos to guide me. I bought the 2.5 car kit and some extra flakes and grit for slippage. I did my garage in two parts. While it is true that if you are not careful, you can pour too much on and not have enough for other areas. That is what happened for the first half of the two car garage. I did it in sections so as to move everything in the garage to one side while I worked on the other. The first 10'x10' section looked great, but I ran out of sealant for the second 10'x10' block of the first side and it did not cover completely and looked patchy (dark areas where the cement absorbed what little I could spread on it). However, knowing this, on the second section a few days later, I was more judicious, and adequately rolled the sealant over the entire 2nd car area, plus had enough to go back over the patchy area on the first half. Now it looks great on all sections. I am very happy with this product so far! So people advise on YouTube that you need another extra kit because it doesn't cover far enough. However, I don't think this is necessary. I was able to do a 400 sq. ft. two car garage with the 2.5 kit and did not have to buy an extra 1 car garage kit.