Hoya 52 mm Pro ND 64 Filter

I am a newbie in photography. I just comment about what I see. First, this hoya's filter is solid build. Fit my canon rf 24-105mm perfectly even after put lense hood on. Just mention that be careful when clean the filter, you better clean it with micro fiber and cleaning liquid. The coat is easy to be scratched. I baby this filter that way "^_^

The trick with the Hoya filters is just make sure that you are getting the ones made in Japan. No color casts and crystal clear image quality. Can't see spending double the price on some of the more expensive ones. Maybe if money was no object I'd go with those magnetic ones from another maker but way out of my price range. I had a hard time figuring out which ND to get for long exposure shooting. To make a long story short, this ND64 can be used for long exposure at dawn or dusk and on cloudy days. If you use it in conjunction with a polarizer, which will also reduce you by 2 stops, you can use it even in slightly brighter conditions. After a lot of research it seems that you really can have all of your bases covered with a polarizer, ND64 and an ND1000. For long exposures on a bright day, you will need the ND1000 as well. Hope this helps!

This filter works as it is supposed to: more or less 9 stops decrease in exposure. I give it 4, not 5 stars because it can cause strange color patterns on the image, but most photos did not have them. It is dark (gee, what do you expect?), so the camera better be on a sturdy tripod. Best results were obtained by composing the photo, then setting the lens to manual focus so that screwing the filter on will not risk changing the focus, and then shooting. And then checking the shot for correct exposure. Since I used it to get dreamily flowing water, adding 9 stops to my camera's exposure did not always work. I had to manually (or use exposure compensation) tweak the exposure. I did screw it on top of a polarizing filter and (happily) it easily came off again. If you are reading this review I am certain you know this is a limited use item, but it does the job.

There was dust already on the filter when I opened it and it picked up even more dust extremely fast. The part that worries me is that the product shipped and was dusty in the packaging. How does that even happen?

Good ND

I shot this at 1000mm 1/8000th with the filter using some absurd f/72 aperture because no matter what I did I couldn't get it stopped down enough to shoot the sun.They advertise this particular filter as the one you want to use for the sun.You can still see through this filter, which surprised me, I thought it would be totally opaque to the eye.As close as it gets is a a white circle. I'm going to have to look at a foil option if I want to actually shoot the sun.

My first toe in the water on longer exposure shooting and am very pleased with this filter. Hudson Henry likes Hoya and so do I, although this lens line has been replaced by their "Solar" product.

Enjoy this filter from Hoya. Seems sturdy and well built. Case isn't as "tackle friendly" in the field as BandW but oh well. Need to be more careful when opening as it doesn't have as much cushy foam surrounding it, but I am nit picking.Went with a 10 stop because I didn't want to be fiddling around with stacking filters and all that jazz.Happy with the results. Included a pic.4 stars for el cheapo case.

Review of Hoya ProND1000 Neutral density filter:- Hoya ProND1000 is a 10 stop filter. I measure 10.3 stops in the green channel- Hoya ProND1000 is *extremely* color-neutral: A very small red cast is measurable, but not visually obvious (more below).- No discernible Infra-Red leakage / IR pollution.- Typical, decent quality aluminium frame.- Good price for performance.Safety: This is NOT a filter for photographing the sun.==========================================- If you want to photograph the sun, use only a filter designed and certified for photographing the sun.- Solar filters have heavy IR and UV reduction, as well as high attenuation of visible light, to prevent damage to eyes or equipment.- Contact your local astronomy society, or university astronomy department for advice.Colour:======I've attached images of a ColorChecker chart, with:1) Hoya ProND1000 filter2) No filter3) SRB ND1000 filter- These were all taken with a fixed "UniWB" white balance, which gives all images a strong green cast (the point of this weird white balance is to make it easier to check RAW exposure).- The filtered images were taken at 6", f/4. The unfiltered image was taken at 1/200 ", f/4.- The loss of focus in the filtered images is down to my sloppy technique with an extending zoom lens, the short object distance to the colour chart (~0.6m), and the wide-ish aperture (f/4). The lack of sharpness should not be attributed to the filters.The Hoya ProND 1000 is very neutral. Under Halogen lighting, I measure a very small red cast: Red up by 1.5%; Blue down by 0.25% (relative to green). The measured cast varies a little with lighting. If you are worried about this level of color cast, you should also be worrying about the color casts introduced by changing lenses. These shifts were measured on Nikon D7200 using RAW - i.e. linear light - data extracted using RawDigger.In comparison, It's quite clear that the SRB ND1000 has a blue cast. On the Nikon D7200 I used, Blue is up by about +20%, Red is down by about 30%. But the color shifts are fairly even across the different patches, so white balancing, either by setting a custom WB in the camera with the filter attached, or by adjusting the color temperature in RAW processing. The SRB has just a little difficulty with the lime-green patch on the third row, which is (relative to other patches) shifted slightly to yellow.The colour shifts quoted were measured under halogen lighting. I get similar results under high-quality (CRI Ra 98; CQS 95) LED lighting [Philips ExpertColor 4000K].Construction:=============Decent aluminium construction. Brass, with a knurled ring for better grip would be ideal (Like Breakthrough Technology X4 filters).Sharpness & visual artefacts:=============================I have seen images ProND1000 images with halo artefacts perhaps related to reflections between sensor and filter. On Nikon D7200, I haven't been able to reproduce such artefacts: I've tried photographing lights, shining a torch at the filter out of frame.I've also seen reports of sharpness problems with the Hoya. But pixel-peeking with and without the filter shows *I*'m getting very sharp images, with no significant loss of detail, even inspecting images at 200%.I'm not aware of vignetting problems, except with Nikon 10-24 at 10mm at the extreme (<100 pixels) frame corners, which are down ~1/3 EV - seems like filter ring shading.I'm mostly using the Hoya with Nikon D7200 and Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 OS, at near 50mm and f/5-f/8.Usage:=====- Autofocus may - or may not - be possible with a 10-stop filter fitted to your camera, depending on your camera, and available light. Some experimentation with live-view autofocus, and, for DSLRs, with TTL phase-detect auto-focus, is required. TTL phase-detect auto-focus may work well, but the problem is it may be hard-to-impossible to see what you are focussing on, because of the dark viewfinder relative to your environment.- A typical technique is to focus the camera without the filter, either manually, or with autofocus, and then attach the filter. Some care is required, particularly with extending zoom lenses, not to upset focus. Plate filters in a filter holder are better in this respect. There is a small focus shift on adding a filter, but negligible except for macro photography: the focus point will shift away from the camera by roughly 1/3 of the thickness of the filter glass - typically less than 1mm.- Possible difficulties in focussing suggest the use of small (ish) apertures to ensure adequate sharpness: say f/11 (full-frame); f/8 (APS-C); f/5.6 (Four Thirds). Significantly smaller apertures (higher f-numbers) will cause a loss of sharpness due to diffraction.- On SLRs, use the viewfinder blanking plate to prevent stray light entering the camera via the viewfinder. With a 10-stop filter, not much stray light needs to enter the camera to ruin a photograph. If you've lost the one that came with your camera, inexpensive 3rd-party replacements are available for popular camera models. On some camera models, you may get away without the blanking plate. I have tried and failed to provoke my D7200 to misbehave when using a 10-stop filter - for example by shining a 1.5W single-LED torch into the viewfinder.- Fitting *any* filter increases the likelihood of ghosting and flaring: Use a lens hood or matte-box to shade the filter and lens from stray light.Alternatives:=============SRB ND1000: Moderate, correctable, blue cast; similar construction; half the price (roughly).Breakthrough Technology X4 Neutral Density 3.0: [I haven't tried this] Fairly neutral; low vignetting; Excellent construction; double the price (at least).

I have these filters (cpl/6 stop/10 stop) and have recently used for the first time. No issue with colours or ease of use but...... once these get dirty or wet there seems to be no easy way to clean them. Dry cloths just smear and lens wipes make matters worse. I have tried hot water and this does help remove grease etc from finger marks but still means that you have a long session of cleaning afterwards. Let’s face it, landscape photography is not done indoors so if you can’t clean them then they are of little use. Maybe Hoya can provide some enlightenment on this as they don’t include any cleaning advice with the product. My suggestion is to look elsewhere for nd filters.

I have bought the Hoya 49mm Pro ND 1000 filter.It is just great for my Sony a7 camera and Zeiss 35mm f/2.8 lens. Hoya produces the best value for money ND filters. The ND 1000 is the darkest neutral density filter for 49 mm filter thread. It's ideal for long exposure shooting. Like in the case of creating light rays from car lamps during night. Or vanishing people and cars from photos during daylight by using 30 seconds long exposure.It is isn't truly neutral density. It changes a little the colors. Not big issue for amateurs like me. That is unavoidable with affordable ND filters. It isn't a professional ND filter as its name suggests. Professional ND filters costs at least five times more. For its money it's great thought.The reflections are truly negligible. Very good anti reflecting coating. This something I like with all Hoya filters. I have problems to clean the filter with my lenspen. I don't know why. The box of the filter could be better. It is heavier than the filter, it doesn't close safely.I combine the filter with another Infrared filter and shoot directly the sun with telephoto lens for sun spots.

Great piece of kit . Excellent results captured of fast flowing rivers on long exposures .. No colour cast at all .. Would recommend to anyone .. Quality glass at a great price !

Bought the 5-stop after years of using the 10-stop to good effect. Hoping to use it in studio shoots for DoF purposes, but for landscape can confirm - amazing kit, Hoya have never let me down. I take mine on real adventures too, the old 10-stop is still in perfect condition and I'm far from easy on my kit.