Motive Products 0108 Late Model GM Compatible Power Bleeder 2-Quart Tank with Hose and Adapter

I saw this tool on an episode of Powerblock TV. I ended up taking my 98 Saturn SL2 to the dealer for the last rear brake job because I didn't want to go through the hassle of recruiting someone to help pump the brakes. (It cost me 540.00 of which 400.00 was for labor!) When I discovered that my rear wheel cylinders were leaking again, I knew it was time to get this tool. Since the brake fluid was dark colored and probably very old, I planned to flush the system rather than just bleeding it. I felt this bleeder would suit this perfectly. After reading other reviews, I decided to do one modification. I installed a metal tire valve stem on the tank. (I'm not recommending that anyone should do this, this was done just for my personal use.) Instead of using the hand pump to pressurize the tank, I planned to use the built in air compressor on my battery jump starter. (I finally got to make good use of it since it was worthless as far as jump starting cars, but that's another story.) Since I planned on using the "dry" method, I could use the schrader valve to relieve pressure in the tank, rather than unscrewing the cap. The cap that goes on the master cylinder is specifically made for my car type and not universal, so it fits on nice and tight, no leaks. An extra gasket for the cap was included. The gauge goes up to 30 psi but it is recommended that you don't exceed 20 psi. I kept it between 10-15 psi to be on the safe side. It was more than enough pressure to push the brake fluid through the system. The air compressor in my jump starter pressurized the tank slowly enough so that it wouldn't accidentally over pressurize the tank. Since I did employ the "dry" method, I had to refill the master cylinder and make sure the fluid level didn't get too low. (If it does, you'll be sorry!) It took around four refills per wheel since I was flushing the system rather than just bleeding it. To me, this small hassle was better than the clean up and wasting of brake fluid associated with employing the "wet" method. The schrader valve worked as I had planned, and it was easy to relieve the tank pressure before refilling the master cylinder. This was the easiest brake bleeding job that I have ever done. I'm almost (I said almost!) looking forward to the next bleeding job! The bleeder is very sturdily built and worked as advertised. My only regret is that I didn't discover it sooner!

I rarely write reviews, but this thing worked beautifully! Upgraded calipers and brake lines on my car and this allowed me to do a complete fluid flush and bleed on all four wheels by myself in about 30 minutes. Brakes feel great now! Had a very very small leak where the 2 hose pieces screw together. Was going to put some teflon tape on the brass connectors, but wasn't sure if it would adversely react with the hydraulic fluid. I ended up just wrapping a rag around it and continued. The cap seemed to seal well to the reservoir with no leaks and held pressure well. If you are doing a full fluid change, remove as much old fluid as you can from the reservoir first, then refill with the new fluid prior to hooking up the pump system. This will save time during the bleeding process. Also, make sure to add at least 2 pints of fluid to the pump to make sure the master cylinder does not run dry. I used about 2.5 pints total of new fluid to completely flush and bleed my brake system. Any extra can be poured back into the original containers, but as the hydraulic fluid is hygroscopic, I wouldn't keep it for an extended period of time. Overall, this saved a lot of time and was extremely easy to use. Clean up was very easy with denatured alcohol. I highly recommend this product.

Borrowed the pump from a friend and had to order this adapter. All new brakes, lines, M/C, I mean everything. A lot of air in that truck. Going to bleed it again before the cold spell hits again. I despise STL weather.. Wish me luck..Revised: worked like a champ. I bled them twice. Glad I'm slow at returning tools, because a new wheel cylinder blew(big name brand) so I get to do it over again. To boot, my Toyota brakes went out 2/10/2024 and they don't odder a adapter just the whole kit so I'll have to do it the old fashioned way-2 people. I got spoiled. Love this product nonetheless. Might just buy my own.. Monday is going to be in the 60's so it's a two vehicle day. Better than the -4 the other day. Again, wish me luck..

Fit good but cap for master cylinder was hard to get on tight. But after it was secure it worked great. I had absolutely no brake pedal and wasn't able to get any pedal no matter how much pumping and bleeding I did. After connecting the Motive Power Bleeder I was able to bleed all the brake cylinders and at the same time get air out of the ABS valve. I pumped it up to 15 psi and turned the key on and off to cycle the ABS cylinder. Then I opened the bleeder on the farthest brake cylinder and a lot of air came out. I turned the key on and off again and opened the bleeder again. I checked the brake pedal and I had good pedal. I thought, well I have 15 psi on the system so certainly I would have pedal. So I released the pressure and checked the pedal and it was really good. After only two bleeds. I put pressure back on and repeated the process for the rest of the wheels.

I was doing a routine brake flush on a 2008 Silverado, and could not manage to get all the air out of the system using the old two-person, "step-on-the-brake-and-open-the-bleeder" method. I first tried installing speed bleeders (with built-in one-way valve), but those too still let air in the system when brake pedal pressure was released. I finally caved and bought this, and it was AMAZING. It worked perfectly the first time, and I had the brakes bled in almost no time. No awful brake fluid everywhere, no yelling "Brake on, brake off" for 20 minutes. It was quite fun to sit there and watch all the bubbles get expelled with no theatrics. This tool has turned one of my least favorite car maintenance tasks into a quick, pleasant job. I will definitely be buying other adapters to fit other makes as needed.

For such an expensive product, I’d expect more. This is a garden sprayer with a gauge, cheap fittings and cheap clamps. I attached the reservoir cap like fitting to the fitting on the bottle, using teflon tape on the fittings. I went to pump it up, and the pressure was bleeding right out. After pumping it probably 100+ times, I was up to 10 psi. In the few seconds it held that pressure, I found that it was leaking from the plastic (yes, plastic) barb on the top of the bottle, despite them having a clamp there. I put on a hose clamp, which fixed that leak. Tried pumping it up again, and it still leaked. Couldn’t find where it was leaking from - tried it on 3 vehicles with the same result. I’m returning the item. I went and got a $10 replacement reservoir cap, put in a brass barbed fitting, and hooked it up to my air compressor. If I didn’t have an air compressor. I’d also buy a garden sprayer, a gauge, and some fittings and make one for half the price that would actually hold pressure. To Motive : ditch the plastic barb fitting and put in a 1/4” NPT quick disconnect. Or at least a barb fitting with a hose clamp.

OK... first things first. In general this product does what it says it's supposed to do and it does that pretty well. It makes brake bleeding MUCH easier, and cleaner, overall. And, the best part is, it's no longer a two person job. I can bleed brakes on my pickups in somewhere around 20-minutes flat using this tool. So, for that, it's great. I have, however, a love/hate relationship with this product. First... the hose at the top of the canister makes it an absolute pain to get the cover on. That silicon hose flops around and catches on every ridge of the cap, repeatedly. And you can't screw the cap on and hold that hose out of the way very well, either. That could have been made WAY better by moving that hose assembly a little further away from the cap and pointed in a slightly different direction. The gauge is poorly constructed. The front face and glass have fallen off mine several times. I had Amazon replace it once, it fell off the original, as well. I had to glue that back on. Not sure why Motive hasn't secured that at the factory. The pump... oh, the pump. I've had four of them. I thought, initially, they were defective. If you just work it, say, easily and smoothly, like a bike pump all the air escapes past the plunger and very little goes into the vessel itself, to pressurize. In fact, pump somewhat slowly and the thing will pressurize to about 5PSI and stay there - 3/4 of the pumps I had it stayed at around 3PSI on the gauge. You have to push the plunger down rapidly to get the thing to air up. On some cars, working that "violently" with the thing is hard to do because there's no good, flat, surface to work with. All that said, though, once you get the thing put together and pressured up, it's a breeze! Walk to the furthest bleed screw, open it up and let the fluid flow till it runs clear, close it, walk to the next, repeat... I, for the pickups, usually drain 1-cup of fluid from each bleed screw, 1 quart, total. It, literally, takes six-to-ten minutes, tops to bleed the entire truck out and there's ZERO chance of air getting in the system b/c a bleed screw didn't get closed before your helper let off the brake pedal. So... there is a love/hate relationship with this thing. I love the speed / ease it creates once you get the thing together and ready. I'm just not in love with the lower quality, poorly thought out, design. A few, small, tweaks would make this thing amazing for no more money that you'd pay, already...

This is a simple but great product and worth the money. Suggestion - you don't even need to put brake fluid in the Power Bleeder as long as you keep the master cylinder full and don't allow the fluid to drop below the minimum in the reservoir while bleeding. (no cleanup required afterwards) It makes the chore of bleeding your brakes a piece of cake. Used this on my 2008 Silverado after a brake job and caliper replacement. I figured at 100,000 miles I would purge the system with new fluid and it worked great. Just take your time and don't over do it on the pressure. I used just a little over 15 lbs of pressure. Remember to bleed the longest line first and work your way to the shortest line. So typically that is the right rear, than the left rear followed by the right front and then the left front. Consult the service guide for your vehicle for the recommended order.