AW Electric Bike Conversion Kit 48V 1000W 26" Front/Rear Wheel Powerful Motor E-Bike Conversion Kit Dual Mode Controller W/LCD Display Twist Throttle PAS Ebike Wheel Kit

The first motor from this manufacturer that I ordered 6 years ago was through Walmart It's the exact same kit and around the same price, but it took two weeks to arrive from Walmart. I ordered this on Thursday with an expected delivery of next Thursday through Monday (a week to 10 day delivery). It just arrived on Sunday only 4 days after I ordered it, which isn't actually accurate because I ordered it late on Thursday night so 3 days and a few hours. Now, the product: I am completely satisfied with this e-bike rear hub motor. I'm replacing it because the previous one burned up in a house fire, bicycle and all. I weigh in around 135 to 145 lbs and with a 1000 watt 20 Ahr battery my bike will maintain 28 to 30 MPH for a good sustained 10 minutes. After that it slows to about 26 - 28 MPH and keeps that speed for 30 minutes or so. Running at 20MPH (maximum legal speed in many states) with a 1000W, 20Ahr battery, pulling a half loaded cargo trailer my one way range is about 30 miles or almost 40 miles without the trailer and about 2 hours service on one 20 Ahr battery charge. Packaging is perfect and meant to withstand shipping gorillas from China to the US. > Installation is not difficult and takes few tools and a couple of hours if you are fussy about how neat and professional you want it to look. > An allan wrench tool set, an adjustable wrench for the axil nuts, a #2 Phillips screwdriver, and some way to neatly trim the excess wire ties is about all the tools necessary for the completed project. > I recommend you buy a few extra zip ties, maybe even a pack of "sticky backed" Velcro strips. > The tire comes mounted to the rim but it may need inflating. > The Peddle Assist sensor mounts inside of the left peddle. Most peddle cranks are meant to be removed using a specialized tool, but you can use a wheel/gear puller on some cranks. Otherwise find a friendly bike shop that will help you mount the sensor, or decide that you can live without the peddle assist function. The sensor's inner diameter is too big for some peddle cranks. All other throttle functions work fine without the PAS. > The instruction booklet for assembling the motor and controller and hooking up all the wires from the throttle and hand breaks is clear and concise and each wire connection has a unique shaped plug so they can't be confused and mis-connected or even reverse connected. > The instruction for setting up the LCD display might be a bit confusing but the illustrations help a lot. > The power wires to the fuse and to the battery are the only "splicing" necessary. As an electronic technician and marine systems installer I HIGHLY recommend using crimp connectors and NOT wire nuts. > A little less intuitive is removing the original handle bar ends. This is necessary to mount the throttle. You could leave the opposite handle in place but it's nice to have a matching set. There's several YouTube videos that show simple ways to remove them. Most just slip on (no screws) but they act like Chinese finger puzzles when you try pulling them off. > The only negative experience I have had with this kit is the controller. I tucked the controller away inside a panier bag on a back cargo rack. This limits the cooling air flow around the device and 7 of the nine MOS-FETs cooked themselves during the hot summer months. I ordered a $60 replacement from a motorized scooter supplier in CA that was rated at 1200watts with 12 driver FETs and ran the bike problem free for the remaining 5 years before the house fire. The 1000 watt controller works fine, just remember it gets hot and needs air flow to protect the electronics.

The kit rides like a dream! I absolutely love it! ... I have an older bike so I wasn't able to put the pedal assist on there but it works without the pedal assist! I had to find the right settings!! Other than that I have no problems!! It has lots of power! Because I'm a heavier guy it will only get me up to 25 but I'm sure it gets faster with a smaller person!!

Update: they finally replaced the faulty part by exchanging the whole kit for a new kit. I told them I purchased the front and rear kits for 2 wheel drive on a bike and they seemed happy enough to sell me the kits until I asked them the best way to hook them up in tandem and they said I can't. It worked for about 15 seconds and it was super powerful and then it fried the 2 controllers and doubt they will replace them after I already got a new kit. But I will try. I ended up purchasing a dual controller kit with display and throttle just for my awd needs on Amazon. I'm kinda upset with how slow this motor kit is with very little power and torque. Takes forever to hit the max speed of 28 mph. If you want real power you need 5,000watts or higher motor kit and get large tires, thes tires are so narrow that I don't feel safe riding on them on a turn. Needs a fat boy tires or motorcycle tires to feel safe on a faster e-bike. When I purchased these kits they said they were dual motor compatible and then the wording changed after purchase and I waisted money on these kits, I should have spent the extra cash on a better faster hub motor kit with the size battery pack I created and spent a month making. This kit is perfect for flat ground riding or child sized riders for hills etc. Good luck! First message: I'm still waiting for a faulty part to be replaced, keep getting a "let me get a hold of the company and ask them what do do next" but then they get back to me about a week later with an answer that has nothing to do with my question. I will update this review as soon as this company does me right and sends me a good working order replacement 26" 48v 1,000w front hub motor. Also purchased a matching rear hub motor and it works fine, no faulty parts on this one, not a ton of power and takes quite a bit of time to work up to max speed @28mph, steep hills are not the best, which is why I bought both front and rear hub motors to have more power with all wheel drive, will update this effect after I one day in my lifetime get a replacement front hub motor. Wish me luck and give me a helpful button so they will rush my part along, thanks! Edit: update: So both motor kits fried one after another, I could smell smoke and then just nothing, my battery pack and set up was just right. Bad product, they couldn't replace the kits because they take soo long to get back to you that the small warranty period ends before you know it, luckily I had purchased a warranty with asurion with each kit and they refunded my purchases right away. Now I have a bunch of parts that don't work but I will get a chance to open them up and inspect what went wrong. Now I purchased a kit from a better company through Amazon with an 8k watt rear hub motor and 72v 40ah battery with matching front wheel. Can't wait till the parts arrive.

Update Jun 22: I now have 1200 miles on it. Same rubber it came with and same spokes. Still loving it. Update Aug. 18 2019: Still going strong!!! Got over 550 miles on it so far and I ride it over 10 miles a day 5 to 6 times a week! So far the it works great! The kit was super easy to install and seem to be great build quality. I'm using my existing hydrologic disk brakes so I didn't install the brake lever with the cut off switch. Haven't really been in any situation where I would have needed it. Just let off the throttle and stop peddling. I did have to add a washer between the rear casset and the bike frame in order to get the free wheel to spin freely which isn't any big deal. I have put 175 miles on it so far and it's fantastic. I mainly use it to go to the gym and back in the morning. It's 5.25 each way up hill bolth ways... I'm not kidding eather. It's a 600 foot elevation climb over about 3 miles to the top then down hill to the gym. Slightly less on the way back. I ride on level assist 2 and get some good cardio going and it only takes me about 15 min each way. By car it takes 10 to 12. I get to take the bike path so its much more direct. My girlfriend and I will ride in to town together on non electric bikes and this same climb takes over 20 minutes just to the top of the hill and we're in pretty good shape. This thing makes you feel like an olympian. I was using two 5.8 amp hour lipo batterys in series that I used to run on a large camera drone. They were ok and could get about 13 mile range on assist 2. I just got a 48v 13ah Joyisi ebike battery and wow! What a huge difference. It has a lot more giddy up and go. Fist cycle on the pack today and did over 15 miles it still has about over 70 precent left in it I think. So I should be able to get some good range on it. Needless to say I'm super happy with this setup. Oh a disclaimer: I build a fly all sorts of different drones so this came pretty easy to me in terms of set up and install. I believe most any one can do it. It will require you to solder on some connectors to ba able to hook it up to your battery most likely. I put XT 90's on as they are rated to 90 amps. You'll never pull that much on it but never can be to safe. I used the bag it came with to tidy up all my wires and for my battery to controller connection. Any way I can't wait to hop back on it and ride!!

1. This item has the worst installation instructions I have ever encountered. It would be really helpful to have some more details for people that are not familiar with ebikes. For instance it just says to connect the electrical wire and put the brake levers on the handlebars. It should give some information on removing the existing brake lines and putting them in the new levers. 2. The battery that Amazon recommended did not have the correct adapter to plug into the controller so I had to overnight an adapter hoping I could ride the next day. 3. The adapter worked but I still did not have power. After hours of troubleshooting I finally had power all of the sudden and went for a 10 minute ride to check everything. Suddenly the motor stopped working but the display still had power. Now I have been troubleshooting for several more hours and can't get the motor to work. 4. I bought the same sized wheel that I already have but their version of a 26 inch is smaller. 5. I now realize I could have bought a new ebike for a similar price to what I payed for this kit and the battery.

3250 mile update 9/16/20: Still running awesome. No reduction in motor performance. Bike in great shape. Battery is definitely losing life and going to have to replace that soon. You lose a lot of battery life as the weather gets colder. Last winter the range decreased by ~40% on cold days but then went back up as things warmed back up toward spring+summer. Now getting into fall though the range is noticeably lower and I don't think it will have enough juice to get me to work during the winter. At ~2900 miles the battery stopped working after a bump. I opened it up and found a connection had rusted through from water getting inside (oops). I re-soldered the connection and it worked great. 500 mile update 5/22/19: Everything is awesome! No noticeable changes after 500 miles of wear. The bike runs great in the rain. No problems yet despite several rather wet rides - although the water spray at 30mph is certainly uncomfortable. I have electric tape on the connections but that is it for waterproofing. On a warm day when I am not wearing a jacket cruising speed on flat ground is actually 30.5mph - a bit faster than the 28.5 while wearing a jacket. No more close calls with cars since the last update now that I know what to watch out for. 135 miles ridden 4/25/19: I absolutely love this thing! I really just figured this out as I went along based only on info I could find online. I don't know anybody else with an Ebike but I imagine after this I will be able to convince some friends+family. Here are my thoughts: - I bought a conversion bike and battery on Amazon (listed below), and including the kit the entire setup was just almost exactly $1000. - It took about 8 hours to assemble everything, including assembling the bike I bought, mostly because I had no idea what I was doing and have no real handyman experience. If I had to do it again it would probably only take 3 hours or less. - I did not install the PAS or the brakes that come with the bike with safety motor shutoff. The throttle is very easy to use and I don't have any problem letting go of the throttle to use the brakes that came with the bike. - The motor connectors and everything with the kit were extremely easy to connect and intuitive, although the instructions are pretty bad. I figured it out mostly without them. The only problem I had was the connector to the rear motor. I apparently didn't connect it tight enough the first time and it burnt out the connector after only a few minutes (!!). Amazon sent a replacement no problem. Second time through I connected it very tightly and secured it with electric tape and now it works great! - Full throttle on flat ground with no wind will go about 28.5 mph (I am 175lbs). While pedaling hard I can get that up to ~33mph or so but honestly at that point I can't pedal my feet much faster. A good middle ground is to stay around 20mph and then pedal comfortably at the same intensity I do when cruising at 12mph on a regular bike. This extends the battery life, gives me a bit of a workout, and keeps me going at a reasonable speed. - Battery lasts about 20 miles on flat ground full speed without me pedaling, or if I bike slower and pedal more it lasts way longer and I could probably get it up to 40-50 miles. My ride to work is 9 miles with a 750 ft elevation gain and over 25 stoplights. If I pedal some but not enough to break a sweat I will use about half the battery on the ride. - The bike I bought was a bit small for the conversion, and the suspension attaches right through the center of the frame taking up all the space there (the bike picture on Amazon shows WAY more space in the center of the frame than I got). This made me have to attach the battery on the underside of the frame, and the controller above the frame right below my seat. This isn't a huge problem, but it does mean that when I go over a large bump the front suspension allows my front tire to brush against the battery, and since the controller is attached under my seat I am unable to modify my seat height easily. The seat height is not a problem since it is already set where I like it. The front tire brushing against the battery case is annoying. Currently I put tape there to absorb the scraping so the plastic of the battery doesn't get damaged. Not a huge issue but worth looking into a larger bike for (Note later I taped a piece of rubber on the front of the battery and that is working much better and not getting worn out quickly like the tape was) - Cars don't expect you to be going as fast as this bike can go. If I am riding in the bike lane, a car is very likely to make a right turn in front of me anytime. Be aware and watch for this to happen - they can't see you well and are not expecting you to be going the speed you are. Get good lights and increase your visibility. - That being said, this thing is AMAZING in the city. I can easily keep up with traffic in downtown Salt Lake City, which feels safer than being passed all the time. If needed I feel much more comfortable taking a lane of traffic since I am able to go reasonable speeds. Hills are super easy - including very steep ones. Getting going from a stop is no longer annoying like it is on a regular bike. - I bought a Torque Arm based on what I had read online, but couldn't figure out how to install it on the bike I bought, and honestly the bike is built solid enough that I don't think I need it. 135 miles so far without a problem and no visible bending or stressing of the rear forks. - The bike I got came with disk brakes. These have really good stopping power, although if I brake too hard my back tire locks up and starts sliding out from under me. It's a bit scary to have to slam the brakes at 28mph on a bike and start sliding, but even though I would not consider myself a great biker it was pretty easy to get back under control and still maneuver enough to avoid the car turning in front of me. Learning what to watch out for and to bike a bit more carefully :P Conversion bike: 2020 Gravity FSX 1.0 Dual Full Suspension Mountain Bike with Disc Brakes, Shimano Shifting (White, 17in) Battery: Joyisi Ebike Battery 48V 13AH / 36V 15AH Lithium ion Battery with Charger, USB Port, Electric Bike Battery for 1000W / 500W Bike Motor (Black) Lights: HeroBeam Bike Lights Double Set - The Ultimate Lighting and Safety Pack of Super Bright Front Bicycle Lights, Tail Lights and Wheel Lights - 5 Year Warranty

It’s very powerful and can reach around 28 mph. I’m running a 48V 20Ah battery, and the range is pretty good. My main concern, however, is durability. The spoke nipples kept loosening and eventually fell into the rim, and the rim itself bent fairly easily. I mentioned the bent rim to customer service, and they gave me a refund. I also have a 135mm frame, and the disc rotor is way too close to the frame, so I’m unable to attach my brake caliper.

Love this kit. Installed the basic wheel and throttle in about 1 hour. Pedal assist is option (not required in U.S.) so the sensor does not need to be installed. The included brake handles are also optional, but their benefit is that they automatically disconnect the motor when a handle is pulled. I am 6'1" tall and around 200 pounds, On an inexpensive cruiser bicycle and at full throttle, this motor comfortably gets up to about 30mph. For the batteries, ordered 4 of these when they were on sale: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-BTL24A360C-Lithium-Phosphate/dp/B00F9LPKJ6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage Placed the four batteries into a $10 plastic toolbox and connected them together using 12ga wire, then to the motor using Anderson Powerpole connectors. Strapped the controller and toolbox on the bike rack over the rear wheel. My battery configuration lasts about 10 miles with lots of throttle and very little pedaling. Will buy again. Having put 500+ miles on the wheel, an update is in order. The wheel has continued to work fine and I try to commute on it once a week. The motor has been working fine without issue. Some things I notice: 1) the motor has very little torq from a complete stop. Best to push off and start pedaling to help it get up to speed without burning a lot of battery energy. Once started moving, the motor has plenty of energy to help a sustained pedaling with little drain from the batteries. 2) The main power wires are connected to the controller using a small, yellow terminal block. Hiding that block on the bicycle is not easy if you want to be able to quickly remove the wheel. A plug would be much more convenient, but I have not tried one. 3) the wiring harness is not adjustable for length. Unless you are capable of installing like connecting ends on the cables, the excess wire must be wrapped up and hidden somewhere. Getting the cables back to the rear wheel and controller from the handlebars can look ugly, but I have found that using a piece of aluminum rod (perhaps Small Parts 14305 Threaded Rod 1/4"-20 - 3', Aluminum 6061 or smaller) you can bend it to the shape of your frame and wrap the cables to it tightly using the cable wrap that comes with the kit. Once the rod and cables are then attached to the bicycle, it looks orderly, like it was designed to be there. 4) with batteries installed, the bicycle is too heavy for most trunk mounted racks. Even after removing the batteries from the bicycle, I recommend a trailer hitch and to use a hitch rack. Since the rear wheel makes the bicycle so backheavy, it does not "hang" well on racks with arms. I ended up making my own rack which allows the bicycle rear wheel and front fork to rest on a platform instead of hanging on hooks. 5) batteries that I use to run the wheel. I have two Lithium Ion 48v 20ah batteries on my bicycle. I have ridden 20 miles on a single battery when comfortably pedaling along at about 20mph and still have a little charge left when I get home. After most 10-mile trips, it takes about 3 hours to charge a battery. 6) I did not install the pedal assist and the unit works fine without a pedal assist cable being plugged into the controller. 7) I did not install the disconnecting brake levers since I use hydraulic brakes Shimano SLX M675 Mountain Bike Disc Brake . You just have to be mindful of releasing the throttle when applying the brakes. Newbies may want to install the disconnect brake levers for peace of mind. 8) motor has subsequently been re-laced into a 57mm single wall rim and is now running with a Duro 3" tire. the first 26x3 inch tire was a Sunlite Cruiser Flame Tires, 26"x 3.0", Black/Black but I did not check air pressure when I picked the wheel up and about a week later on a particularly hot day, had a blowout in the sidewall. The Duro is kept at about 20 lbs pressure and works fine, especially on wet, grassy field and has been working for a year now without incident. The way I had the wired routed from the wheel to the controller, it would take some tools to place the tire, so a repair could not be done on the road. 9) the wiring is not waterproof, but it can be protected a lot with careful placement of connectors. I have not ridden in heavy rain, but it has done well in mist and light sprinkles. 10) the tire that comes with the wheel is pretty flimsy. I found that the original rim worked best for commuting with this tire: Schwinn Cruiser Bike Tire with Kevlar (Black, 26 x 2.12-Inch) I think that is everything I have learned using this product. Since then, I have purchased two more of this model from this seller.