Chemical Guys WAC_CLY_100_16 Clay Luber Synthetic Lubricant with Wetting Agents for Clayblock and Car Detailing Clay (Works on Cars, Trucks, SUVs, Jeeps & More), 16 fl oz

My car care experience started in the Rain Dance/Simoniz era of the 70s, where all you knew was hours of hard labor. Wax on wax off, rub rub rub, get another towel, check it again oh crud there's still more wax to remove, you know the drill. Fast forward to the modern era... I ventured into using clay bars about a decade ago, a spray detailer/clay bar kit from Mothers impulse buy at Walmart. I repurchased the same product a couple of times and though was happy with it I felt it was time to try something new.The reviews on this product were enough to tip me away from Mothers and the results are tremendously different. Application and usage is generally the same with all of these products. Mist an area, rub with light pressure back and forth. Microfiber towel dry. Smash the bar and flatten. Repeat.I could tell a *noticeable* difference in the feel of the car surface but I wasn't sure it was real or my imagination. I was planning to wax both cars so I did a quick test. I had some Mothers left over so I used that on the hood of one car and Chemical Guys on the other. Sure as heck it was different! The CG application felt smoother and more glossy. I did another test gently gliding a clean and dry microfiber towel across both surfaces. The Mothers surface glide did ok but had some resistance. The CG surface glide resulted in the towel sliding right off the hood and onto the floor! I'm sold!I use Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Spray Wax 2.0. I know... it's not ceramic but for me it's easy without the PTSD memories of the 70s. Just wipe a very thin layer on and let 'er dry. It worked great over the top of the CG clay bar application. Easy on and easy off. The results are amazing. Both cars just sparkle!The best part was that I did both cars (Outback and Forester) in about 4 hours, and most of that time was waiting for the wax to dry. And I'm not wiped out! With less labor and a reasonable time commitment, I find that I wax the cars more than once a year.Anyway... thanks for reading my review this far. So here's a little present for you... a dad car joke:What do you get when dinosaurs crash their cars?Tyrannosaurus wrecks.YUK YUKHave a blessed day!

The media could not be loaded. I’m more than impressed with the clay bar and the solution. I’ve cleaned vehicles for many years but was always hesitant to use a clay bar. Man I’ve been missing out. This was easy to use, solution smelled good, Clay bar worked great and results are amazing. No more using tar removing chemicals and struggling with sap, Clay bar takes care of it all and leaves an amazing shine after a quick spray of wax. Enough to clay bar 3 vehicles which I think is great value for the money! As a first time user I’m impressed and it exceeded my expectations I would highly recommend this product!

This kit is awesome. My car’s paint went from feeling like sand paper to being a slick as glass. I did not expect it to work as well as it did. Rarely do products live up to the hype. This one did. It created the perfect surface to apply my ceramic paint sealer to.

Chemical guys make a good product and there clay bar and solution package is a good example of that easy to use and works really well.

Works well, easy to use, and makes the car feel smooth. Worth the buy.

Used this on my truck that had years of sediment an crap on it, this stuff took it right off and now my paint feels smooth like a baby's butt. It was easy to use, just read directions, clay bar held up really well, great value compared to ther clay bar kits

High quality and arrived on time I have done quite a few vehicles over the years and this product worked exactly as advertised. The addition of the lube with the order was great

Fantastic product, BUT you MUST know how to use it. So many negative reviews are "user error", because this stuff requires skill and a lot of patience (not to mention an arm/shoulder workout).The clay is the perfect composition, easy enough to work, but it doesn't break up or disintegrate even with aggressively working at my windshield (I wouldn't work that hard on the paint).I have not tried the "heavier" versions as I have a newer vehicle and the paint is well maintained (my family would say "obsessively" or "babied"), I just don't know about the "black" one, you want the clay to have a color where you can see it is dirty.The luber is good, but just about any detail spray will work, just DON'T do a "quick wax" or "wash and wax" with clay, you gum up the clay and lock the contaminates into the paint instead of lifting them off. Not a fan of the bubble gum smell, but there are worse smells out there (I'm looking at you Turtle Wax).Clay has 2 purposes: 1. Full decontamination or 2. Spot removal of tar, sap, etc. I've used it for both now with great results. My most common use is removing tree sap from paint and glass without resorting to a harsh cleaner.After taking delivery of my new vehicle, I expected there to be some amount of "rail dust" and other contamination from the shipping process. I wasn't wrong and this worked wonders.Before doing any kind of sealant on the paint, you want to make the clay bar part of this process: 1. Deep clean wash (something like "Clean Slate" or Dawn or a De-greaser), 2. Chemical decontamination with an iron remover, 3. Clay bar to mechanically remove any remaining contaminants. Finish up optionally with mechanical polishing (new car so I'll do this next year), then a sealant, wax, or coating.Working with a clay bar: 1. Tear or cut off a small piece (1/4 of the bar) removing ANY plastic wrap, there are plastic sheets on BOTH sides of this bar, absolutely be sure it is gone and it is very sticky so this isn't easy, 2. spray the clay and your fingers with the luber, 3. work the clay into a half dollar size disk, feel for any odd textures (pieces of plastic left over, I found one once), 4. spray luber on a 1-2 foot section of paint, 5. working in small circles over that section a couple of passes, add more luber as needed, it should ALWAYS be gliding across the paint or glass, never sticking or dragging, 6. wipe off with a microfiber towel and inspect visually and tactility it should be a tad shinier and be incredibly smooth, 7. the clay should now have some amount of discoloration (love the yellow color as it shows this VERY well), fold it over, knead it back into a disk so a clean surface shows again, go back to step 4 and repeat over the entire vehicle paint and glass. IF the clay has become dark to the point you can't get a clean surface OR you have dropped it on the ground, DISCARD IT and get another piece. That last bit is critical, if the clay itself gets contaminated too much it will start to scratch the paint.